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#1
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"A" K member spacers
Anyone ever put spacers under the K for more hood clearance? I know the ol Hemi A's had spacers but I dont know what else they had in conjunction with those. Does the trans mount need to be redrilled (to hang lower for proper angle) or torsion rod sockets relocated? My transplanted 727 is hitting my tunnel and I want some more clearance down their. I think 1 inch spacers would be perfect for this. Just need longer bolts? What about front suspension? Would it change anything there? Thanks
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#2
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It would change the suspenion geometry and increase the bumpsteer effect. It would change the effective spring rate of the torsion bars since they are now at an angle that they are not designed to run at. It could very well add enough stress to round out the hex mounts in the frame for the torsion bars. The tranny would be at an angle and through the rear pinion angle off. That will set up a vibration and ruin the u joints over time. The exhaust would have to be tweeked as well. The steering shaft from the column would have to be exstended too.
There's really no need to do this since many A bodies had A 727's in them from the factory. Are you sure the front sub frames not flexing under load making it hit. If so all you need is to level it out on stands and weld in some sub frame connectors. Best to fix it right or at least forget the spacer idea since it wont work. |
#3
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Let me add a few things. This is a B/RB 727 in a 65 "A" with a 400/451. My last one was a 4 speed. This one had a 904.
The tunnel is very narrow. I already pounded out the pinch seam and tried to clearance where I thought it was hitting. I may be able to modify the motor mounts to sink it down a little more, I dont need much. I wonder what the old Hemi A's had then if the steering is going to be altered? Steering is not a problem since you have 2 inches of socket to play with and the hole for the column can be "extended", the torsion bars will still work since the K will drop 6 inches when you unbolt it with the bars still attached, and the exhaust is not even fabricated yet so I still have time to figure that out. I can shim the pinion down to match the trans angle It was the steering I was worried about. |
#4
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I ahve not seen the bb cars in a long time,but i'd say the lower arm pivots are moved as well. Yes the k will drop a good piece with the bars attached,but while driving under the weight at an angle will put some undue stress on them since all bars are designed to run flat and straight.
I see what you mean about the narrow tunnel. Did not have the right car in mind at first. I think I'd try moving the mounts around before I went messing with the front end. Can you not add a dimple to the pan or do you just wish not to do that? That sounds easier, but I understand if you dont want to mess up the stock pan or tunnel area. |
#5
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Hey pishta
hey pishta
I would vote for tunnle mods. Some where I read that there were 2 tunnles used in the a bodies. I may be mistaken on that . But it may be worth looking into. One for the 904 and one for the 727. But this may have been for later modle stuff. |
#6
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Yeah Dan, that was later stuff. Remember they had to design a new manifold just to get a 273 in these chassis. The 67 was the first year of the wide bays in these. Ill look into what I got going now (maybe a rub) since the tunnel mod is not what I was hoping to do. Oh well, worth a shot! I got pretty much solid mounts anyway so a rub will probably not even be noticed...
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#7
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I can't see any problem suspension wise why not to put spacers between the K-member and the framerails. Like you ssid yourself, that method was used in the Hemi A-bodies. In such a long bar, and considering the factory tolerances in everything, a small drop will not affect the suspension. In the steering, the only thing that will hange is the distance between upper and lower comtrolarm inner pivot points. How much will that affect anyhting, I don't know. However, I will perform that mod myself, but because of hood clearance. In my old '66, an original 4 speed car, I had the same problem. My initial solution was to modify the trans rear mount, so that I got some clearance. It worked fine. Later when I installed a CSI suoershield, I cut the transtunnel open and made more room there. Should have done that in the first place, it's so much easier to work on now.
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#8
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It will affect steering geometry, but I have a solution. This will only work if you are using the '73 and up front suspension pieces (big bolt pattern). The solution is use the Volare/aspen/mirada etc spindles. They are dimensionally the same as the 73-76 A-body parts except they are exactly 1 inch taller! They will also have to be switched side for side to get the brake caliper in the right place. I new someday that piece of information would be valuable....
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