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#1
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360 Build up
I am trying to plan out my 360 build. Car is 71 satellite, hooker's MSD, Edelbrock heads, Crane 1.5 rollers on current set up. Gears in it now are 323 but soon to be 355 or 391. I want a street rod worthy of backing up my sticker; MOPAR PERFORMANCE. Im not sure about the pistons, but I want to use Eagles SIR I BEAM rods , my alm. heads and valve train, HI PO oil pump, Milodon 9 qt pan. Should I use the Keith Black 107+30 pistons and have zero deck clearence ? I plan on using probally a MP 284/284-484" cam [solid] IS this a good set up? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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#2
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This set up sounds like a great start. Many will give you flack over cam choices. You have a plan, stick to it and grow from there.
I used the KB hyper-u zero deck piston. It was with 72 cc "J" heads for a 9.8 comp. Never a problem. Your comp with the Edel. heads will be 10.5-or.6. Good for the street. Whatch out for pan depth on the street. What tube size Hookers? Comp or Super comps? IMO, Super Comps. What intake? IMO, RPM IMO, you'll like the 3.91 and a 26'/27' tire as wide as you can get. Stock rods when preped can take this power your thinking about. Just resize them and shot peen them. They can take it. |
#3
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For a street car use the low profile oil pan.
Use the flat top pistons, zero-deck with the closed chamber Edelbrock heads to get a proper "quench" chamber design. The Mopar 284/0.484" cam is OK, but there are better (and more expensive) cams avaliable. I have built a simular 360 with the Mopar 292/0.509"? Hydraulic cam and it ran pretty good with 4.10:1 gears and a high stall converter. |
#4
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They are the Super Comp's, and Im running an RPM intake. How's that cam going to affect my electrical system, { reffering to idle in gear w/ light's on } my current set up has all my light's slightly dimming @ night. What price range are we talking about 4 the 509 Hughes cam. Oh yeah !! Shuold I worry about PTV clearence or just shoot in the dark and hope for some way.
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#5
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The .509 lift cleared on my zero deck engine w/Edel. heads. It's not the cam, it's the idle speed. Jack it up a bit. A higher output Alt. would help. Then again, the lights dimmed a bit when it was stock.http://hughesengines.com/www/hughesengines/
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#6
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Got her to the point where any higher put's a bang in my new Percision Ujoint's.
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#7
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The Keith Black pistons have pretty good sized valve reliefs. You shouls check the piston to valve clearance, but I think is will be fine.
For the alternator question, stay tuned! They just shipped my 130 Amp Denso alternator. I'll ley you know how it works when I get it. |
#8
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Let me know of any wiring altercations you make for that alt. Ive been reading other threads about it and its a 50/50 topic about up grading a few wires.
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#9
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Darren;
What carb are you running? It sounds like idle troubles. |
#10
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The .484/.284 cam is a good choice. I had a similar 360 with the .509/.292 and I didn't like it. We had a heck of a time trying to get it to idle without jumping all around. Finally had to go to a Holley 830 w/4 corner idling. I think the 484 is a better choice for the street. Hughes cams are good, but I can get the MP cam w/lifters for $125 (including tax) out the door. Hughes are $152 for CAM only.
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#11
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He he he, I was thinking of saying to use a 4 corner idle system to him.
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#12
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My carb is a Holley 4777-7, current jetting is , {trying to remember correctly} 68 primary and 70 sec. I can smell that im a little rich but it's raining so I havent pulled the plugs to lookse. The jetting has changed so many times after putting on Edel alum. heads, due to going through 5 intake gaskets !! Yes, I do know what Im doing, even had the top guy in the club help. No one seems to know why the intake wont seal ?
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#13
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Lets get her sealed up first.
Is the intake used? Was the blocks deck milled? Intake milled? Did you try to double up on gaskets? Try RTV or gaskasinch from Edelbrock to help take up some room. An attempt to seal up iregular surfaces. |
#14
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I botched my first try at sealing up my intake with the Edel heads. I decided to use a very thin coating of The Right Stuff on the composite intake to head gaskets on the next try and that solved it. My intake was used and the block had been decked .020 so the angle on the bolts wasn't fun to deal with. i had to sit on the intake and then thread the bolts in while under the hood.
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#15
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I have tried a varity of sealers, from edel. gaska cinch to permatex, anerobic, and plain old blue rtv. I am not using the cork on the ends either. Both the heads and intake were purchased from Summit about 4 months ago new, and about the block being decked, well Im not sure. Car was bought from a guy who had it in storage for appox- 10 years and the only thing he remembered about a rebuild was forged pistons. I had about a 1/4" of clearence between piston top and deck height ? Dont know if that's and help, but. How about running a thin bead of black rtv around the intake ports. Really dont want to pull intake again
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#16
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Alternator
You can get the stock 60 amp alternator rebuilt into a 100 amp, no problem. I had it done at a local starter/alternator/generator shop. It took 'em less than a day, it looked like new, and charged 40 amps at idle.
BUT BEWARE!!! If you have an AMP guage in your car and not a VOLT guage you need to disconnect it!!!! The new alt charges at idle more than the guage can take max, and it WILL FRY!!! But I have absolutely NO electrical problems. |
#17
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Amp gauge ? Well I dont know what it reads, it's got a needle that points to C D or in between. I have an Auto Meter 3 gauge cluster but currently the volt meter isnt hooked up.
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#18
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I'm mildly disturbed by the fact that none of the standard sealants that you have tried have rectified the situation (is anyone else concerned?) Are you only placing it on the intake port sides of the intake or on the ends as well? If you go all out and put a bead around every intake port on the heads and you apply too much, you risk squeezing some of the sealant into the flow path, stripping you of HP. You say the intake is used. Any possibilities in a hole or crack? The top end pressure would suck some air in and get you running rich. Other than that, even IF you deck was milled and the angle was off, enough sealant all the way around the entire base of the intake should set you up pretty tight. Keep going until you can submurge it Good luck.
-Deacon |
#19
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you can also rewire an alternator from a 87-90 geo metro. these push 60 amps at 1200 rpm
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#20
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92whitedak
I find it disturbing you have a Olds under your name at a MoPar board. Thats OK, you'll grow out of it. LOL
Seiously, nice looking car. Good luck. darren509, since your car is a '71, your ALT. is a 60amp unit. Consider the gauge at pinned on "C" , Charging at the full 60 amps. Installing the higher output unit is a great idea for all. Just disconect that gauge like superdart said. You may yet again have to pull the intake off. Clean everything up on head and intake. Then measure the space inbetween the 2 when it's installed on top of the engine with out bolts or gaskets. Eyeball the space on top of the ports and the bottom of the ports. See if they look about the same. RTV around every port should have done it. Lay a bead and let cure for a bit. This way when it's pressed together, it won't smear and bleed all over the place. |
#21
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Unfortuantely you will need to pull the intake to get it sealed correctly. I know it is a pain in the backside, but to do it right you need to pull it again. I also have tried all kinds of sealant and will never use anything except The Right Stuff from now on. It is the only sealant that will seal in the presence of oil and antifreeze. It is expensive, but nothing comes even close.
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#22
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RTV silicone is not suitable for sealing intake ports, I know, I have tried it. It softens and expands in the presence of gasoline and sucks into the intake.
Sounds like you have a problem with a deck height or the heads have been milled to me. Are the bolts hard to line up or have you slotted the bolt holes in the intake? I would be tempted to try a set of steel shim gaskets and see how that goes. Good luck man, I know it's frustrating. |
#23
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Sorry if there is a confusion about the heads and intake, they are damn near brand new and un-molested. Sounds like I will have to pull it again { ding ding, round 6 } unfortunately rain and $ are getting the best of me. I went ahead and put a bead around one side of the intake between showers and I swear it idle's worse now. Maybe with half the leak temporarily fixed its reacting to the large primarys ?? Got the idle mixture screws one and a half turns out amd idle is 1000rpm.
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#24
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I got the 130 Amp Denso alternator and so far I'm going to need the correct connector for the feild wires, and a "V" belt pulley.
I will have to make or modify the alternator brackets too. |
#25
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Has anyone in here tried the powermaster 100 amp thats advertised in Summit ?
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#26
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HEY DART
HEY DART, WHERE CAN I FIND THE RIGHT STUFF LOCALLY ?
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#27
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by rumblefish360
[B]This set up sounds like a great start. Many will give you flack over cam choices. You have a plan, stick to it and grow from there. I used the KB hyper-u zero deck piston. It was with 72 cc "J" heads for a 9.8 comp. Never a problem. Your comp with the Edel. heads will be 10.5-or.6. Good for the street. Whatch out for pan depth on the street. What tube size Hookers? Comp or Super comps? IMO, Super Comps. What intake? IMO, RPM IMO, you'll like the 3.91 and a 26'/27' tire as wide as you can get. Hey rumble what do you mean when you say re size the rods ? |
#28
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Sorry about that, I accidently deleted the quote I was trying to save.
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#29
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[
Stock rods when preped can take this power your thinking about. Just resize them and shot peen them. They can take it. [/B][/QUOTE] |
#30
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Darren...
I don't know where you live but Autozone stocks it. There is nothing better for sealing. |
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