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#1
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any suggestions would be helpful!
1970 Challenger 318, 2 bbl, 904 with auto on the column, and 7 3/4"or 7 1/4"(I cant keep that in my head for some reason) rear. My question to you is about a violent shake when the car reaches about 25 mph and when I put it in Reverse, sometimes it would not catch and other times it would SLAM SO HARD that it choked the car down (yes, I did say 904 automatic trans.)
On the hwy I think i was feeling the transmission "slip" around 75-80 mph. It was like I could feel power going to the wheels then for a few seconds it felt like it was coasting... Drove it back home on the back roads and got it up on blocks and pulled the trans. that was last summer. Now.. I think I want to put a 440 or 383 in the car so I have been saving $. Its hard to save in these tuff economic times. So since i think i want a BB, I abondened the idea of spending what i think would be about $300 on rebuilding the 904 trans myself ( i have very little experience with working on cars other than changing oil and bolting and intake and carb to this date) Now for the really strange part, all of a sudden,my WIFE wants the car back on the road ASAP! This puts me back in a funny place... 1. Spend the money to have my trans fixed by someone that knows what they are doing and run the 318 until I decide what to do/save some more cash(do you do 904s?) and how much should I expect to spend? 2. Spend $800 on a TCI small block 727 trans from a mail order catalog (jegs or whatever-i have not checked with the local dodge dealership to see if they can get me a small block trans. but I would consider that option if the price is right) In which case my next step would be A. Buy a 360 Magnum/380 HP Crate Engine (after saving for another 2-3 years) 3. Keep looking for a 68-78 junker with a 440 and 727 to rebuild.(would it be cheaper to pay 2-5k for someone elses car that has already been build and pull the 440/383?) 4. Get the $2000.00 440 long block kit from P.A.W. and the $800 727 trans. from jegs? I know I need an 8 3/4 rear and I am keeping an eye open for that or a dana but I don't expect to see a dana I can afford. I would like to be able to drive it to the beach (Myrtle-about 200 miles) but I also want to run at 1/8 mile strip and be respectable. If I cant have both, I would rather be able to be respected and the strip! Maybe save some more cash and learn to change out the rear end or carry a hogshead with me! thanks for any suggestions Chris aka Bambam |
#2
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Here's my suggestion. Choose one of two route
1)get a used 904, and put it in. should be easy to find and cheap. It sounds like you removed the first one yourself, so putting it back in shouldn't be too tough. I would think that you can buy a used 904 for under $150.(should be quite a bit under) 2)buy a big ass C- body car with a 440 and 727. One that runs good, but crappy otherwise. About a 76 vintage, spend about $300 dollars on the whole car. Pull the Engine and trans, and bolt it staight in to your challenger. The diff will hold if you know that's the weak link and take it easy. You'll have some hassels: 1) having the drive shaft shortened/new yolk(use the one from the parts car, $200) 2) take the car to a muffler shop to have your 318 exhaust modified to fit(if it's dual) or a new dual system. ($60modify-$300 for a basic dual system) 3)some gaskets and paint, tune up parts. Just freshen up the vc gaskets ect. ($200) 4)some wiring for the electronic ignition(if you haven't upgraded it yet). You can use harness pieces from the parts car(free/ help from a buddy) 5)finding accessory brakets that will work, because the newer car will have the huge alternator, AC, ect.(more time than money, $50) And you're away! Even a smog 440 will have a ton of jam. Then if you want to swap in a crate motor, build a 451, or something later on the car is big block ready. Expect some variance in the pricing, since I'm in canada and our dollar sucks. Also some prices for services do seem to vary a lot from region to region. I'm pretty sure I could do the swap described, purchase the parts car, buy the new exhaust, ect for about 1100 candian(700 usa) |
#3
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Dave571 has a good point. The best way to get it on the road ASAP is to buy a used tranny. It will be the cheapest way too. The next deside what your going to run in the future, a big block in that car is a easy swap! Easy as they come, they have the most room of any of the cars, and parts a readly avaliable to put a 440 into it. Save a buy a older 440 block with the crank, this would be pre1972 and have a steel crank. Even if it all needs machined thats ok. It will be done any way, this block and crank should be had for less than $300 if ya look hard, also try to score a standard bore engine. The crank can be turned down, thee many bearing sizes out there. If you can get all this complete in a old C body great. If not just get the block and crank. If just the block and crank, you nwill still need to buy a late 70's 440 from what ever you can find. There is alot of parts you can use for the older block, like the better heads found on them late 70's engines (452's) They have hard exhaust seats for unleaded fuel. All the brakets hardware,oil pan,waterpump stuff, can be used on your old block, The tranny will work but a rebuild and new performance converter will be in order. Then you can sale a few things and trun a buck with your project. You will have a extra short block, the engine/tranny in your car now. The late model engine will be ok to rebuild but if ya can find a old one and sale or trade for it. you will find out that its a much better engine and have less problems swaping converters. The later 440 post 1972 usaly have cast cranks and the blocks are inferior to the old ones. All this will cost you a very little more than building a small block. So why not? Unless a 318 in your car will be build for great power, then your car will be down any way. A 8 3/4 rear will take almost whatever a Big block can dish out, unless your hitting the NOS button on a built up Hemi. They will handle power up to 800 horses.
__________________
68 Coronet 69 Super Bee......new 500 cid comin soon! 73 Duster witha missing 440/727 |
#4
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if it was me, i'd get the 440 long block from P.A.W.
heres a link for 727 trannies...instead of the TCI unit... http://www.transmission-specialties....ion_chart.html i agree with 6packin...you'd have to make sure the driveshaft length is correct, and the exhause would definintly have to be at least halfway redone...depending... good luck!! |
#5
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IMHO, if all you want is to get it up and running for now, why change the motor at all? it might be better for you to buy a used tranny, install it, do your cruising, take the few hundo you would pay for a donor car, put a 4bbl and headers and some other speed parts on the 318 and go.(go cheap here) you can do the motor in stages to keep the car driving most of the time and get the mrs off your back. in the meantime, look for your donor car and save your cash and build a stout big block the way you want it the first time and keep the car driveable till you swap out the motor/trans. search this board, and you will find that you can run "respectable" times with the 318. I only say this because I know how long it takes nights/weekends to do the sb to bb swap right (parts gathering, cleaning/painting engine bay, etc...) and you said the mrs wants it on the road asap. I would stay away from the paw short block (not just paw, but any type of "crate" assembly) find a good local machine shop to do any machining you need. the crates SEEM like a good deal, but when/if it takes a dump, who is going to help you? search this board, you will find plenty of horror strories about crate motors. I would take the word of people on this board instead of the magazine guys who get their crate motors for free.
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#6
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i'm not positive, but i THINK the P.A.W long block comes disassembled. i'm not sure though...never bought the long block...just a rebuild kit for my bro's 440... pistons, i think rods, crank, cam, lifters, valve springs/retainers.... only about $2500 worth. runs damned good though! if it DOES come preassembled, definently take the time to tear it apart, and check out EVERYTHING!!
his car is a '71 satellite, with 727 (and shift kit), and 3.56 Sure Grip in the rear. his tires are 275/60 R-15 in the back. the thing will tote the back tires for about 3 city blocks, get up to 50mph in 1st, and when it hits 2nd, the speedo goes to 80 while the car goes sideways.......WHAT A RUSH!! |
#7
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I think rr is right, I seem to remember the paw kit. I believe it is called the super stock master rebuild kit? comes with pistons/pins, bearings, chain, rings, crank, oil pump, rods, cam/lifters, and gaskets. I would still lean towards getting a complete car, yank the motor and get your parts through a local shop- the extra cost will be more than offset by the benefits. ie, mislabeled or defective parts not your financial responsibility. go with an earlier 440 and get the steel crank, too. from talking to friends, and reading this board, seems like weather you are buying a crate motor or rebuild kit, seems like kit means $hit!!
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#8
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I say, Get your trans rebuilt around $300. Then you know it will work. Sometimes used autos dont work after sitting around too long. You can enjoy your car quick.
Then, save, save, save. Dave is right. Buy a doner car. |
#9
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Quote:
good luck!! |
#10
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THANKS!!!!!!
Thanks for all the suggestions
If any of you are interested, here is my plan: 1. Junkyard tranny-$150.00 or less=Challenger back on the road. 2. Contiune the search for a donor car with 440 and 727 Theory=low bucks for quick fix and more $ for BB Buildup Thanks for all the suggestions, tips, links, etc. By the way-anyone in NC? Chris aka Bambam |
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