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#1
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strut rod bushing
Do you have to remove the lower control arm to remove the strut?
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#2
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Remove lower control arm?
I don't know of any you have to remove. Remove the cotter pin, I beleive in counting the threads so I can re-install to the right depth, remove the nut and then unbolt from the control arm.
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#3
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yes, unfortunatly you have to remove the control arm to get the strut out.unless it is broken(the strut).
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#4
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Maybe
I know when I replaced the strut rod bushings in my '75 Dart, I didn't have to remove the lower control arm. I unbolted the strut rod, backed off and removed the torsion bars, and had enough slack to to take out the rods no problem. But that's on a newer Dart.
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#5
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the shop manual shows the LCA coming off, but they are replacing the LCA bushing at the same time. I can see where pulling the torsin bar MAY give you enough slack. It looks like the strut needs to be remvoved from BETWEEN the LCA and K.
Any more expeicnce with getting them out?? |
#6
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Im rebuilding my front end on my duster right now. The bolt attaching the strut to the K member needs to come off first, then the bolt attaching to the lower control arm. otherwise the strut will simply spin when removing the bolt on the k-member. While I removed the lower control arm, maybe you could slide it far enough backwards once the torsion bar is removed, to get the strut rod out of the k-member.
Not too involved, good luck. Bruce |
#7
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I did mine not to long ago on my 70 Cuda. If you don't want to take everything apart ( I did, to redo the parts) here are the steps.
1- Remove front & rear bolts from strut 2- Remove (or at least ) slide rearward the torsion bar don't forget to release the torsion bar tension prior. 3- Remove completely or almost completely, bolt from front of control arm shaft 4- You need to slide the control arm rearward as much as you need to remove the front portion of the strut out of the K-frame. 5- The control "may" drop down alittle. Iam not sure how easy this will be, when I did mine, like I said, I was removing "everything" to restore so. The shop manual says to remove the control arm? But it's your shot. Good Luck Hope it works! |
#8
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Thanks. Those were the answers I was looking for. I have been "thionking" about upgrading to 1.00" TBars. ( have .96 now) Sounds like a little more incentive to do so>
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#9
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it sounds (by your handle) that you run a challenger. plesae, oh please, tell me you run an a-body and want to sell me the .96 torsion bars for cheap!!!!
thanks mike |
#10
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Yes you can buy them cheap. Just need to cut about a foot off of them.
How about a pair of 4 year old garage kept Wheel Vintige 15x8 rallye wheels with 5.25 backspace--yes 5.25". works perfect with the 3/4" "moved inbound spring package" |
#11
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Fprgpt tp mention taking that front bolt out...my fault, I've only done this once. It took me about an hour to do the first side, only about 30 minutes to do the other once I knew what I was doing. It was just a fix so that I could get my Dart on the road. The car is going to get a complete front end rebuild in the not-to-distant future.
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