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#1
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How to get more traction
Are there any tricks to getting more traction out of a A-body besides a adjustable pinion snubber, wider tires, and surgrip? let me know
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#2
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nope....well maybe but why would you do it without a suregrip?
Super stock leaf springs.... 002 and 003 should be the numbers you need. Move your timing around to kill some bottom end. But seriously you named the 3 big ones already. |
#3
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how about unclamping the backside of the rear leaf springs and unbolting the front sway bar.
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#4
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Clamping the front section of the springs, 90/10 front shocks, Caltracks, floating ladder bars, 4 link......I'm still fighting it myself.
If the tracks not perfect we spin the tires...dial high, cut a good light and slam on the binders at the stripe...sometimes it works and sometimes you break out..... |
#5
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Hehe; I will do everyones favourite mod for my car: traction bars!
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#6
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Traction
Remove whatever weight is practical from the front and/or SECURELY add whatever weight you can to the back.
Despite the rule-of-thumb that removing 100 lbs helps lower ET's by .10, ADDING weight in the back can sometimes help. It WILL make it more consistent! |
#7
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Again I ask....why not have both wheels supplying power? Kinda like showing up at a gunfight with a knife.
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#8
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I dont really want a spool cuz it is a steet car mosly, but i could build a 3rd member wit one.........
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#9
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how's it going? did you get the motor running? curious to see how it turned out-
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#10
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Motor wont be running for atleast one more week. But the traction issue is brought up, becuase i went for a ride in a 4spd Dart wit a stout 360, and he was smokin em thru 2nd and about 3/4 throttle. So, jus gettin ready for the big 440. I am putting the radiator in and some little things like that. Has anyone here ever put the electric fans on the front of the Rad? Should i go with any special type of belts or pullys? all i have is the stock ones, and they are not on the motor yet.
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#11
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I have a small electric on the front of my rad that I use on brutally hot days.
are you using an engine driven (mechanical) fan, and the electric as an auxilliary? if so, I would hold off on the electric. see if it runs cool on just the mechanical. (for gods' sake, use a shroud) If you are using the electric as your only fan, best to mount it on the engine side, they work much better as a "puller" rather than a "pusher" you can offset a bit off center so it does not hit waterpump pulley. I would use the stock pulleys for now. If you find it runs cool, then maybe go to an underdrive set in the future- I used underdrive when I first got mine together (remember, almost exact combo you run) and it ran hot. switched to stock pulleys/mech fan w/shroud and runs very cool now. let us know when you get it running. Kevin |
#12
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Most of the better electric fans are designed to work as pushers or pullers. They area way less effective if used the other way round than what they are desided to.
And for any kind of decent traction and consistency you must have a sure grip. I do not like spools either in a street car, I had a cone style suregrip even in my 9.6 sec. dart. |
#13
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I believe he has a suregrip already
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#14
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I have surgrip with 3.55.
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#15
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Make sure the rear shocks aren't too short.
The pinion snubber will max out the shock, and you will get hop if the shocks are too short. |
#16
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Your suspension should work so, that you do not need a pinion snubber in an automatic car. If it's the pinion snubber pushing the rear up, then you've got S-shaped springs there, that should be handled by the springs front portion.
The first step to do is to clamp the front sections fo the rear springs close to each springs end. That will stiffen the front portion and propably work as well as SS springs in a semi quick car. We had such a set up in our 11.1 second Valiant, switched to SS springs and gained nothing. We also had pinion snuppers in our both cars, but finally removed them; they never touched thefloor during the acceleration. you should have at least four inches of travel outwards in the rear shocks the car standing still. If the shocks still go out of travel, you should start stiffening also the rear portion of the springs. Personally I do not like the pinion snubber, as can propably be guessed from above. If you adjust it close to the floor, the way it should be adjusted, it means that in the street you basically have only that much spring travel. Since it supports the car from the center, it can also produce some odd things in bouncy curves. Being ugly or politically correct or not, slapper bars is what I will use from now on. |
#17
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Dart66...be sure and paint those traction bars bright yellow
I agree with Dart on the snubber, I dumped mine also, 60's dropped and car transferred wieght better. If you have a serious traction problem have a look at the Chassis Engineering Caltrac copy's, I'm going to probably build my own but I like the theory behind them. Let us know how you do at the track. |
#18
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Or you can buy a ford or chevy, they get great traction, Why? Because they Can't burn the tires!!!!.................
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