4 speed conversion questions...???

[tsteiner61]

I have a 1971 Dart Swinger that I am converting from /6-904, to 360 (408) stroker - A833 non-OD. The engine is in no problem

I bought what was supposedly a 4-speed conversion off ebay complete with pedal assembly, z-bar, clutch fork rod, floor hump, frame reinforcement bracket and bellhousing (with fork & pivot). The car was I believe a 72 or 73 Duster, and I was under the impression that these parts would bolt right in the my 71 Swinger.

The flywheel and clutch assembly were bought separately. The flywheel is a standard 11" passcar flywheel from behind I believe a 69 340. The clutch cover is from MPP and the clutch disk is just a standard 10 1/2 Ram street clutch.

I have had nothing but problems with this (nothing seems to fit correctly, can't seem to get enough plate release no matter how I set up the linkage) and am starting to wonder if I messed up. Anyone know of any reason why this wouldn't work, and if so, what part/parts would I need to replace?

Thanks in advance.

[340duster1]

I have done this conversion on two a-bodys. the best place to start is to look at a parts book. There is a good picture in the 1970 parts book. I can scan it and email it to you if you like. This way you can verify which parts you have. Some problems that can occur are incorrect clutch fork, bellhousing pivot, or z-bar in the wrong way. Or some of your parts could be bent also. Another important part is the pivot for the clutch fork, they seem to bend easily too. Post your email and we can start with that.

[tsteiner61]

That sounds great. I've been trying to compare the parts I have with the drawings in the service manual, but sometimes the drawings aren't clear enough. My email is ted_steiner@jepplg.com.

Thanks again. I really appreciate it.

[charger_dan]

Ted,

Your E-bay parts, if really from a 72 or 73 Duster, should bolt in and
work just fine (as long as they're in decent condition). Inadequate plate
release typically points to mis-installed or damaged parts.

As far as the clutch, I'm sure many guys here have combined mixed and
matched components from different mfgrs., but I've always felt that,
with clutches, it's best to purchase a pressure plate and disc assembly
from one company. While this may seem more costly upfront, in the long run,
it can really save you some potential headaches.

Also: I've got a copy of "Chrysler Muscle Car Parts Interchange Manual"
sitting on my bookshelf. I'd be happy to check for you on year-to-year
interchanges for various components. Holler if I can be of assistance.

Can you post images of this set-up? It might help.

Best of luck.

[tsteiner61]

I plan to try and get some pix up soon. Originally, I did buy the matched set from MPP and, go figure, they didn't fit. Couldn't get a refund, either (never surprises me with MPP stuff). I had the scalloped 10.95" setup and the clutch rubbed against the outside of the clutch cover so bad that it bound up and I could never get it out of gear.

Right now I suspect the bellhousing might be to blame. When I first bolted in on, the z-bar pivots didn't line up right and I had to mod that bracket to make the z-bar go straight across from the frame to the bellhousing. Then once I got that straight, the clutch fork rod I was sent didn't even reach the fork. This is when I started thinking maybe something's not right here as far as parts go. Every now and then you get a bad apple on ebay, plus the possibility that I may have screwed up as well.

Anyhow, I will try to get some pictures and part numbers soon.

[340duster1]

You may be missing the special a-body offset pivot for the bellhousing side (available from MP). The drawing I will email you should clear that up.

[tsteiner61]

340duster1,
Very nice pix. Thanks.

I checked some things out yesterday and found a couple of problems right off. First, I measured my clutch fork, and judging from the length (10 3/4") it seems that this must be a B-E body fork. If it's true that the A-body fork is over a foot long, this would seem to explain the insufficient pressure plate release I was having.

The pivot studs I used are correct incl. the bracket. I ordered the Clutch Linkage Shaft Service Kit new from MPP (P4529489). One of the things I noticed when installing it, though, was that when I bolted it to the bellhousing, the pivot stud was too high and too far forward compared with the other stud on the frame which I am fairly sure is in the correct position (through the existing hole in frame). This is leading me to believe that the bellhousing isn't right either (see picture). The two bellhousings are both supposedly from a 340/360, but the pivot areas look totally different.