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  #1  
Old 02-12-2003, 06:34 PM
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:shock: OOOPPS went a little hog wild!

Hey guy's i have a set of 360 heads early without smog ports
i am doing to go on my 360 that i am building. Anyway like anything else i can't leave it well enough alone gotta do somethin to it!! I broke out the grinder and went to town on the ports
after i got done Hoggin the heck out of them i checked them out a little better (i was already told not to go too wild on the Hump on the Exhaust side because it was coolant that lurks under there!)
Anyway there are little humps near the opening of the Intake ports and as far as i could tell it had no purpose so i ground it down flush with the rest of the chamber all looks good except the last one i did i saw a small hole and i presumed it to be a pocket in the casting. Well i got out the screwdriver and pushed and the hole got a little bigger i was worried i hit a water jacket but i blew compressed air through water jackets and could feel nothing coming out of hole! so i happened to be moving my shoplight down and i saw light coming through the hole, The light was shining through a Valve cover bolt hole SO i presume this chamber i opened up is JUST the bottom of the valve cover bolt hole, OR does it go into the oiling system? I was wondering what type of putty to use (JB WELD, EPOXY?) please give me some hints as to where the hole leads and what to use to seal it up and maybe i won't have to toss the heads! Thanks for any replies!
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:42 PM
cuda367 cuda367 is offline
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We run a lot of heads with the bottom of the valve cover bolt open to the port and we don't do any thing to them. the threads above the openning will seal all that needs to be sealed.
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:47 PM
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So it's enclosed into the valve cover bolt hole. cool Thanks alot
that's a relief it looked that way to me but i did'nt know thanks cuda!
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:47 PM
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Scared the hell out of you didn't it....LOL

Remember the size of port is not near as important as the shape of the port...don't ruin the head by opening it up too much unless you know what your doing.

75% of gains are made in the first hour on each port...the next 3 hours gains you very little.
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:50 PM
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Yeah i spent about Hour and a half on each head making sure all the transitions were smooth it had alot of casting flash in the ports and i really wanted all that out.
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:02 PM
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To hit the pocket were the valve cover bolts go you had to be grinding on the roof of the runners? If so you should not waste time there! Flow has nothing to do with the roof. And grinding there will have no effect on flow. The floor or short side is were the air/fuel barrel down to the valve. A flat floor is what is desired. There is water there too. I never touch the roof. Maybe just polish it a bit, if that!
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:16 PM
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would that little hump be for the pushrod?? i've seen these humps on my J heads too. i would say JB Weld will probably work. no guarantee's though. good luck!!
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Old 02-13-2003, 01:09 PM
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no the humps on the floor are water jackets go too far into those and you screw it up. I already smoothed the floor out but i just wanted those humps out it's all ok now i put some JB weld on the hole today no big deal just grind it down smooth when it fully cures!
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Old 02-13-2003, 01:39 PM
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oh! the floor... guess i missed that. i was thinkin the ones on the sides...

hope it works... good luck!
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Old 02-13-2003, 10:31 PM
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Dont use JB weld to repair the heads! That stuff is not made for extreme temp and pressure of a intake or exhaust runner. If works loose in the runner where do you think it will go? The psiton and valves will play soccer with it. Get some A&B epoxy made by Moroso. I have used it before great stuff. Most of the good stuff you will be able to drill and tap it! Dont settle for the 2$ Big Lots stuff to repair mopar heads!
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Old 02-14-2003, 12:14 AM
rustycowl rustycowl is offline
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Default why not studs?

I just put studs in the bolt holes, permanently, with blue LocTite. Then port away to your heart's content.
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:43 AM
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Hey 72RR how about an update?
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Old 02-15-2003, 05:19 PM
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runnin strong! still tryin to get used to the Rhodes lifters though, they're a little noisy.

my Oil PSI is creepin me out though. 10 psi at an idle (around 800-1000) it DOES pick up when i start to go though, and the temp never gets any higher than 165. tomorrow i'm gonna change the oil, and drop the pan just to check things over, and make sure theres no metal in the bottom of the pan. i'm also THINKIN about changin pumps to the one with the Hi PSI spring in it, cause i would really rather have higher psi at an idle. i know it should be ok, but i just want higher....

oh, my current oil pump is the Milodon High Volume/High Pressure pump from P.A.W. i have a High Volume that i put a high pressure spring in thats sittin on the bench, alongside a stock oil pump...
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Old 02-16-2003, 08:55 AM
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Oil pressure is a result of bearing clearance's..mine idles at 65#'s hot 90-100 at WOT

My opinion...and don't know shit from shinola.....
See:
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Sh-t_from_Shinola.html

.....I checked my crystal ball and it showed you having more problems in your future and will continue to have until you let a Mopar Man at that thing.

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