Ignorant Cuda Owner needs major help

[67dartgt]

PLEASE HELP! My Cuda keeps dying on me! I believe the alternator is not charging the battery, but the alternator should be fine! Does the voltage regulator have anything to do with it? ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

[amxauto-x]

Tke it to a shop and have all the items tested.

[JVMopar]

Yes the voltage regulators will make an alternator not charge. I don't know what style regulator you have. But if it's the newer electronic type then you should be able to ground the green wire to the regulator and have the alternator put out a charge. I'm pretty sure it's a green wire or that's what it is on my truck.

[cuda66273]

Have a look at this new regulator system

http://www.4secondsflat.com/electricalsystems.html

They're $20.00 I'll have more info posted sometimme today i'm working on the page right now but the pics are up.

[tsteiner61]

Had this same problem with my Power Wagon when I first got it. Problem was the charging wire from the alternator was broken. This wire runs from the alt to the bulkhead at the firewall, then to the ammeter black. Then the ammeter red goes back through the firewall out to the starter relay BAT terminal. Check for continuity between the alt BAT terminal and the starter relay BAT terminal (or battery positive post) before pulling your hair out with the regulator testing etc.

I've found that the big black wire often melts near the bulkhead and this is what causes the no charge situation. I've owned 7 Dodges and 4 out of 7 had this condition when I purchased them. Also make sure your ammeter is working. If it is not, that would be the cause of the problem right there.

Testing for charging is easy, just take a voltmeter across the battery posts when the car is running. Should be in the 13-14 neighborhood when lightly revved (might be lower at idle).

[timty2]

Same here, tsteiner61!

Models from 64, 68, 69, and 72... All had this exact problem. The 69 and 72 melted the wire in my posession, and 1 also melted adjacent wires under the dash (one being a ground) and had big ol' smoke out while driving on the freeway! Engine died, had no assisted brakes... Trying to get the car stopped, rolling the window down so I could stick my head out and see was a real challenge. This turned out to be childs play compared to re-wiring everything under the dash... I only recently solved my final remaining problem with the wipers (The Switch conacts had melted sub-flush! Everything works like new again!

67dartGT: Most auto parts shops will test your stuff for free. Take your battery and Alt. in and have them checked out. Since you should already have a spare voltage regulator, pick one up while you are there.

I've done this test a few times if the car will start and run:

1. Loosen the neg/black battery cable, but leave it on the Batt.
2. Start car
3. Pull the neg/black battery cable off...

Does the car die right away?

If it does, you have little or no Alt output and the car is running off the battery and not charging it.

Inspect #1: Check your wiring, and check that the engine is well grounded AND there is a ground strap from the engine to the firewall.

Inspect #2: The regulator needs to be well grounded. If the mounting bolts are loose, go up to the next size and run a backup ground wire from the regulator case/mounting bolt to the alternator or head and try again.

4. Reconnect the cable and start the car again.

5. Pull the ground off again.

Inspect #3: Still dies? Have the alt. tested. Replace if bad or weak. If you have a NAPA in your area, I have had EXCELLENT results from their inexpensive units.

6. If the car keeps running, your Alt is at least outputting enough to keep the car at idle. It may be an internal battery short bringing the system down. Have the battery tested.

Inspect #4: With the car running, carfully pull, wiggle, and tug every wire, connector, and plug-in. AVOID THE COIL AND SPARK PLUG WIRES! Look for a bad/cracked wire on the primary 12v wire to the coil along the valve cover. Look for poor connections at the fire wall or ballast resistor. Loose wires at the + coil terminal, bad/cracked wire at the distributor.

If you have electronic ignition, I have had a bad pickup coil in the distributor fail intermittantly.

In the future, post a few more important details about the car. The Year, Engine size, and any upgrades that may or may not be related to the problem! I can't use your 67Dart name and assume this problem is on a 67 Dart... You said it was a 'Cuda!

[amxauto-x]

timty2--good info