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Old 02-24-2003, 07:07 PM
beeman beeman is offline
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Cry Electrical problems

I having a problem getting power to the dash of my 1972 dart. I have followed from the battery to the relay and up through the fusible link through the fire wall to the amp gauge this checks out fine. No power to fuse box or light switch or any dash items or head lights. if i run a jumper wire to the large black wire on the light switch i get all power to work on all items in and out of car but my amp gauge goes to zero, normally it stays at 8 to 10 on the gauge. HELLPPP THANKS bEEMAN.
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Old 02-24-2003, 07:53 PM
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timty2 timty2 is offline
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Hi beeman,

It sounds like you have a car that experienced the infamous "Melt Down" of the main alternator feed wire at the bulkhead and possibly someones botched effort to fix it.

You will need to review a wiring diagram for your car, however, there are 2 solder/weld junctions under the dash that distribute constant hot (Batt) and Accessory (Switched) 12 volt supplies. Each must be checked to make sure they are running to the correct dash device/location.

One of them is after the AMP guage. Trace the black wire to the BATTERY junction and from here a red wire runs to the BATT FEED at the fuse block (Q3-14R). Make sure these and all others are connected properly and undamaged.

The second comes from the ignition switch ACC terminal to a second ACC junction, then a black wire runs to the fuse block (Q2A-14BK)

There are 2 many wires to list by typing here, so you will need a service manual or someone to give you links to diagrams. There are many more at these junctions that must be checked.

By the way, your AMP guage should read "Zero" if the battery is fully changed and the alternator is capable providing enough juice to run all accessories. A constant charge is typically undesireable, and I think your guage is giving false readings (Until you make your connection, that is!)

Before digging in the dash, check the black ALT wire and verify it is in good shape at the bulkhead connector. Many times this wire has been overheated and has melted in the connector (No longer makes contact)

Lots of posts on here discussing how to improve the distribution and prevent this from happening again.

The previous owner of my 68 Charger wired in an aftermarket AMP guage. He ran a new wire from the alt into the car to the new gauge, and then back to the engine compartment to the starter realy terminal. The way it worked was the factory AMP guage always showed a discharge rate, and the new gauge always showed a charge rate. As long as both read the same rate of charge and discharge, everything was OKl (Stupid setup, but it did work.)

I rewired everything to spec and the factory guage works fine.

Hope this helps!
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Old 02-24-2003, 08:49 PM
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bbeckwith bbeckwith is offline
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Hi beeman,

Check out this link to the Mad Electrical Site and look for the how to bypass factory full flow AMP gauges. They use a mopar for demonstration purposes and its perfect for your problem.....

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Good Luck chasing those electrical demons.

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Old 02-25-2003, 10:10 AM
beeman beeman is offline
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Default electrical blahs

Timity thanks for advice ,great to know someone out there knows wiring. I got a diagram so i can tell you by the numbers whats not right.I see the weld joint your taking about Q3-14R, i've check it at the fuse box and no power,L1-16BK also come out of that junction and goes to the light switch,no power either. but if i run a live jumper wire to L1-16BK every thing works fine. i check alt wire and even thats dead when i don't use the jumper wire. I think i'll have to find that welg junction and take it apart because every thing that come out of it is dead. I also checked J1-12R that leads to the ignition switch[battery] and thats dead also. Well i'll do somemore checking. I kind of wondering if this problem arose from some weldind that was done on the car, because i had no problems before. thanks a your advice Beeman
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