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#1
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Stroker Kits
Does anyone know of any places that have stroker kits for small blocks at reasonable prices and quality? I know of Hughes Engines.. what others are there?
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#2
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I found the other place I was thinking off... Speed-O-Motive
i just dont get the prices. SOM wants, for example, $2525 for a 392 Stroker, with stock rods, forged pistons, and no balancing. But then Hughes gets just over $2000 for a 416 Stroker with forged pistons, I-beam rods, AND balancing. What am i missing? http://www.hughesengines.com/www/hug...08crankkit.asp http://www.speedomotive.com/mopar_34...92_stroker.htm |
#3
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LOL... one more question on my thread... as far as stroker cranks are concerned.. I know mopar offers a few choices for crank strokes.. so how does one pick? Why wouldnt you go all the way if you're buying the parts anyway?
Also, how big can you go before having to cut the block to clear? |
#4
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The mopar 4.00 crank requires clearancing. This is the only mopar stroker crank that requires clearancing but the next smallest size is 3.79. I dont know of anyone that makes a crank between these two. It would be easier to stroke a 360 with MP parts. MP has done a number again, leaving out all the possible pistons for a 318. They only have two!! And neither are a stroker piston. Like its a crime to stroke a 318. Even if you were to use the 6" rods you would be sitting .017" lower in the cylinder. Wait maybe thats farther up the cylinder. Now I confused myself?
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#5
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Ive been reading past threads on this very subject. Cuda66273 and tooomuch2.. you guys seem to know a lot on building strokers! Would you say it would be better to just get a MP 4" crank and some Diamond pistons? I already have a set + spares of stock rods, polished and all. Seems like the "good" rods.. eagle and such, are junk. But that always seems to be the case with mopars! LOL, stay with the stock stuff! What compression would you say to run? 10? 10.5? I want to run pump gas. I would also like to stay std bore, as i have a 68 block with a perfectly straight std bore in it (what would the cid be with sd bore roughly?). One last thing.. how big of a gain does using the longer chevy rods give? and in what area? The 4" crank gives a much longer stroke= less revving... but it puts it damn near a square engine.. isnt that good??
for the $300 crank price.. man, how tempting! |
#6
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Muscle Motors and Mancini Racing both sell stroker kits.
I've seen cast stroker kits for under $1500. Forged kits usually run closer to 2 grand. Don't worry so much about clearancing the block. It's relatively easy and can be done with a dremel at home. You will need to notch the bottoms of each bore if you want to run the 4" MPP crank. Std. bore cubes with 4" crank = 402. You can get all the parts separately from any number of places, but having done my stroker that way, I would suggest a kit as the seller can usually balance it for way less than what it would otherwise cost. I know Hughes and Muscle Motors both offer balancing included in the price. My balance job cost $525, so take that into account when deciding whether to try and "save money" by piecing it together. |
#7
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Doug Herbert also has stroker kits for Mopars, I don't have a copy of the catalog handy but as I recall they were competitive.
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#8
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#9
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Quote:
Does the cast 4" crank require a cast balancer? |
#10
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The cast 4" crank will require a custom balance job regardless of the balancer used. You may want to check with your machinist before choosing a balancer because if you choose a balancer that gets the total balance of your chosen rotating assembly close to begin with, it may shave off some of the cost of heavy metal, which represented $230 of the aforementioned $525.
You could always buy the kit and put the kit rods/bearings/rings up for sale here or on ebay. I'm sure someone would take them off your hands for a reasonable sum. Eagle H-beams retail for about $500 and I'm sure you could get at LEAST half of that back on ebay. Another caution for you that I learned the hard way. Stock rods will need extra machining to work with the Keith Black hyperute stroker pistons (KB356, which I used, and possibly others, check before you buy). The small end needs to be milled down to fit under the piston. If you choose these pistons, which come in the more reasonably priced kits, you will need to have more work done to the rods. Expect to pay about $100 more for this (milling down small end + reindexing the weights of each rod in the set) if you want it done right. The kits really are a good buy. Hughes and Muscle Motors people are both really knowledgeable and will sell you a true bolt in kit. Correction from above. With a 340 block, the cubic inches for a standard bore would be 410 NOT 402 like I said above. 402 is for a standard bore stroked 360. |
#11
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Wow, thanks for all the excellent info! I would probably pay the extra money and use forged pistons. I also read in another thread that some rods are MIC and CAT.. and they are pretty much junk. Are the Eagle H rods?
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...threadid=63096 Also- if i were to buy the kit and then sell the rods.. wouldnt i have to get the whole assembly balanced with *my* rods anyway? That would defeat the purpose of getting the kit w/ prebalancing. Do the kits come with a balancer? Thanks again! |
#12
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Wow!! I just noticed that Mancini has an awesome deal on stroker kits!!
http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/strokenkitae.html http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/strokenkitae1.html Can someone fill me in on the goods and bads between the Eagle SR Performance rods and Eagle H-Beam rods? |
#13
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the H-beam rods are H-beams.
the sr's are standard hi performance new rods. The h-beams would more than likely be overkill but he a strong bottom end never hurt anything. |
#14
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I believe you quoted speed-o-motive earlier. They are currently doing my 440 block. It is bored .040 over now that it is cleaned up. They also will be doing all the necessary balancing and grinding. The grind job cost an extra $80. I forget how much the balancing is. Over all, I get my stock rods, a new crank, and new Keith Black Pistons. With a new Comp Cam in it, including all bearings and assembly, it's gonna run out the door at about $2500. I will have to put apx. $300 more into the heads before it runs again, so that is on top of the $2500.
With the Edelbrock Manifold and Doug Thorley's, I estimate it will run just about 600HP. Maybe more, maybe less....whose counting. Speed-O quotes the block build to be about 500 hp and about 520 ft/lb torque. Sounds good to me. You can see the truck at www.4secondsflat.com in the customer's rides section. Fortunately I live near to speed-o, so I don't have to deal with any shipping fees, if they apply. Hey, good luck to you all together. And as someone quoted to me here on this website, don't take any shortcuts....do it right the first time and you'll be doubly satisfied in the end! RJW |
#15
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What about cam recommendations?
If you were to look at a street combo , 340 x heads 10:1 compressions, Performer rpm and a 750 Carb Suggestions? |
#16
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Thats the setup im planning.. but with huge head porting. The cam I have is this...
http://www.compcams.com/information/...umber=20-701-8 Its a roller so $$$. Should be pretty wild! |
#17
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I too am in the beginning stages of my build. I have a 340 and about a 3.5k budget to built it with. I was planning on doing to body work and paint myself while a builder does the engine. I have essentially two local builders who specialize in stroker mopars. Speed-O-matic and Macinni racing. Problem is I am new to mopar and I don't want to make a mistake on something as important as the engine. Of these two builders can anyone recommend one over the other? What experiences have you had with these guys.
With the block I have a set of x heads otherwise most everything else will need to be replaced. P.S. what about NOS? its sort of a novelty I know but I sure would love to have a little red button in my car somewhere. |
#18
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my machinist is a dealer for callies and he was showing me the small block dragon slayer crank. top notch. he sells them for just around $800 i think. he is in west palm beach and a top notch machinest/ engine builder. he was also cheaper than alot of other mopar shops. he doesnt take any short cuts though. if you dont want it done right, forget even talking to him.
Performance Only Race Engines WPB,FL |
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