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  #1  
Old 04-10-2003, 12:08 AM
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Mr.Mopar Mr.Mopar is offline
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Help Calling trans guys...HELP!!

I just installed a TransGo TF-2 kit in my 1974 727 and when I filled it with fluid and ran the car up to temp, I heard an awful snap in the trans. I had the car on stands so I tried running it through the gears and I had only 2nd and 3rd. No reverse or first. So I assumed something went wrong with the low-reverse band set up. I was right. When I took off the pan, the rear servo spring had punched its way past the cup that holds it behind the snap ring and had forced the lever into the bottom of the pan putting a dent in it. Could I have installed the retainer cup the wrong way. I didn't think I did. The snap ring was still in the servo bore but the flat bar that is placed onto the band behind the adjuster was laying loose on top of the valve body and the lever had a chunk taken out of it. It looks like the band is O.K. but the lever will have to be replaced. It broke off right where the flat bar sits against it. In the Transgo instructions it said to remove the smaller spring on the rear servo and put the supplied spacer on the shaft and instal with a new snap ring. Did that. Also replace the stock rear servo spring with the stronger one supplied in the kit. Did that too. I swung the lever back into place and installed the flat bar onto the corresponding spot on the band. I adjusted the band by the "drag method" which TransGo highly suggested. Could the spacer have caused too much pressure and drove the setup thoughthe bottom or did the flat bar come out and screw things up. This is really frustrating as I followed all the instructions to the letter and checked and double checked everything as it went together. What do I do now, put the stock rear servo spring back in and take out the spacer or what. What the heck happened? Any photos of a proper setup of the rear servo sure would help..... HELP PLEASE!!
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2003, 03:08 AM
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Confused Mr.Mopar

I think you broke your rear servo piston, I have don that my self.
My problem was a valv got stuck in the valvebody.
Look and see if you have a small dent in the trans pan.
Or if your lucky you may have broken the small metal plate for the rear band actuator.

Sorry my technical english is not the best, but I know what I'm talking about, I have a trans business and only do mopar trans.

Best of luck.

Joakim
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2003, 08:50 AM
FASTDARTCHESTER FASTDARTCHESTER is offline
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Mr Mopar,

Funny I use a similar combo in my Dart. Is your converter an MP piece? Just curious. If so, how has the reliability been?

Was there sludge in your pan/on the components of the trans? How many miles ont he trans? I just finished bulding a 904 and when I pulled it apart one of the rings on the kickdown servo was broken. The innards were filty dirty too. Maybe something was sticking and then popped under line pressure??? Just thoughts.

TD
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2003, 12:28 PM
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What part of the lever had the chunk taken out of it?
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2003, 02:41 PM
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Servo piston is not broken, I pulled it out after I got the lever out of the way. Yes there was a small dent in the pan because the rear servo lever hit it. There was no sludge, just clean trans fluid. The part that broke off was the end that the flat bar rests into. Just broke that little nib right off, probably saving the band. The MP 175k convertor isn't all its cracked up to be. I think there may be some more slippage than allowed. Get something else. I am going to take off the tailshaft and remove the lever and instal a new one. Am not sure what caused the pressure increase, everything is put together new. I will have to investigate the valvebody and see whats up. Thanks for your suggestions but I still think I need to hear more.
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Old 04-10-2003, 02:47 PM
FASTDARTCHESTER FASTDARTCHESTER is offline
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dam, that's the converter i just bought. trying to save a buck. when you say slippage, do you mean stall or croozing slippage?

Tom
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Old 04-10-2003, 05:53 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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This is one down side of the reprogramming kit, the modifications to the rear servo and the increased line pressure but a tremendous strain on the rear band and its associated parts.

The modifications are necessary for a clean band release on the 1-2 manual upshift but the mods can also take a toll on parts.
One thing that can ease the strain is to keep the rear band adjustment at the minimum of two turns out. Once the band adjustment becomes loose, the additional travel of the piston causes a hammering effect on the components.

One little known fact is that while the line pressure in forward gears is well under 100 psi at idle, the line pressure increases by a factor of three or more in Reverse. In some later units the modified idle line pressure can exceed 250 psi in Reverse which exerts a force of over 7000 lbs. (not a typo, 7000) on the band.

To conserve parts, avoid selecting Reverse when the fluid is cold and the idle speed is high.
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Old 04-11-2003, 12:13 AM
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John, can I not use the spacer that comes with the kit for the rear servo. The guys at the local tranny shop said not to use it. This, to me, would ease some of the pressure involved. The one I am talking about is the one that you use when you take off the small snap ring on the servo piston and place the spacer on the shaft, then put the snap ring back on. I was also wondering, I am not sure if I want to use the manual drain back valve supplied with the kit but there is a small hole drilled between the passages that were required for this mod. Can this small hole be repaired? I am not so sure that this reprogramming kit was the right choice for my application as a cruiser car. I don't need a bunch of busted parts all the time. My car idles at about 1000 rpm. Is that too high for this kit to be able to put it into reverse? Thanks in advance for the great responses.
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Old 04-11-2003, 02:40 AM
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Default Mr.Mopar

I can only say that I have seen this problem on valvebodys that had stucked valves.
I usually take the valves out of the body and inspect them and the valvebody and if needed take some fine sandpaper and lightly grind the valves, just little not to much.
And after that it's shifting exelent and no more problems.
just put in a new steelbar in the rear lever and take the valvebody apart and look for some stuck valves.

Good luck

Joakim
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  #10  
Old 04-11-2003, 12:30 PM
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The pressure regulating valve did seem a little sticky so I used a fine emery cloth and now it seems good. Thanks for the suggestion, Mr. Sixpack, I think it will work now. Oh, and I am going to keep the manual drain valve that came with the kit, what the heck, I've installed it already and I don't think you can fix a valve body once you've drilled it out.
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2003, 01:44 PM
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Default Mr.Mopar

I think your kit is a good thing, just bad luck with a stuck valve.
Tell us how it went when your done.

Good Luck

Joakim
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Old 04-11-2003, 04:15 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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John, can I not use the spacer that comes with the kit for the rear servo.

The purpose of the spacer and the heavier return spring is to make the band release quicker, leaving the spacer out allows the piston to release in two stages and delays the release.

One modification that will ease the strain on the band components is to drill a 3/32" hole in the rear servo piston, this relieves some of the pressure on the band and makes for an even quicker release.

The line pressure increase in Reverse is a function of the Torqueflight design and is perfectly normal but the increased pressure of the valve body mods and the servo mods put more strain on the band components.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2003, 10:15 PM
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Thanks, John, so leave the spacer in and drill a hole in the servo. I hate to ask a dumb question but where should this hole be drilled exactly? I think another thing that may have contributed to the servo arm failure could have been that I adjusted the band by the drag method. I see that when I got it together again (now I have to re-instal the spacer and drill a hole), that the clearance on the lever using the drag method only allowed about 1/8" or so. This seemed very tight and maybe the lever was pushed beyond its travel causing the nib to break off and send the spring through the retainer. I also may have had a sticking valve as the other fella suggested and he was right, I did have one that was dragging. I adjusted it to the 2 turns out method this time and now I have about 1/4 to 3/8" lever travel. I also adjusted the front band out 2 1/2 turns after snug. I have the 2.9 ratio lever. Is this the correct adjustments? Please let me know before it goes back together again. Thanks to you guys, this time I may save myself some work!

OOPs, sorry John, as I read back in my post you do suggest 2 turns out for the rear band.
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2003, 04:16 PM
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Mr. Sixpack, I got the tranny back together and it seems to work fine. I haven't road tested it yet, but on the jackstands I have all gears and no snaps, or bangs. I will attribute this to maybe a stressed rear servo lever, sticking prv or something that I don't know about. So far so good. I did put the spacer back in but didn't drill a hole in the servo. Lets hope it hangs in there.
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2003, 02:17 AM
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Nice to here it works, if you have followed the instruction that came with the shiftkit it should be no problems.

Joakim
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