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Old 04-23-2003, 06:47 AM
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plonky plonky is offline
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Unhappy Help with Torqueflite problem

Hi there. I have just reinstalled the 440 back into the Fury. Prior to this the auto was 'rebuilt' about 9 months ago and had a 2500rpm stall and an unknown brand shift kit fitted. Auto is a 727 Torqueflite.

Due to the 440 now being internally balanced the counterweight was taken off the converter. The 440 was bolted back together and the car drove exceptionally well......until.........

Two days ago I was trolling along in top gear around 25mph. I gave the throttle a big push (W.O.T) and the Fury kicked back to first and the car accelerated real hard. The 1/2 change was nice and quick (as per usual) and I backed off and coasted up towards a park out of town.

As I went to park the car I noticed that the 'box wouldn't select reverse or neutral. I immediately thought it was a shifter problem or a problem with the linkages ( B&M Quiksilver)

A short time later started to drive the car home and all it seemed to do was 'flare' with no forward drive. Once I backed right off throttle the car idled forward but everytime I went to accelerate the rpm rose and the car didn't want to go forward.

The 'box will select neutral and reverse. The car will drive in reverse but has no forward movement in 1,2 or 3rd gear. The gears do shift though (you can hear the gears change up and down and they can be selected manually) I checked the fluid level initially it was very low but now it at normal level. This hasn't changed the way the auto is currently behaving.

There is no big pool of fluid underneath, no leaks, the oil doesn't smell burnt, the gears can be felt to change normally, reverse gear has motion and neutral can be now selected.

Any ideas? I will have the pan off tomorrow to have a look. Whatever it is I don;t need another big expense (the engine was almost $10,000)

Thanks

Grant
Orange
Australia
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Old 04-23-2003, 08:41 AM
fox fox is offline
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If you are saying the shifter won't move, I'd suggest to drop the pan and work the shifter by hand.
You may have a problem with the manual valve/rooster comb.
Let us know.
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Old 04-23-2003, 08:55 AM
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ajmopar ajmopar is offline
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Unknown shift kit?!! I would be inclined to think it was a valve hanging up from crap in the valve body. I would grab another valve body and put in there to see if it goes away, then put a known shift kit in there.
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Old 04-23-2003, 05:42 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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The rear clutch in this trans has failed.
The initial inability to get Reverse or Neutral points to a failed Belleville spring in the clutch. When this spring fails it allows the piston to pop out of its bore and jamb the clutch in the engaged position. This makes the trans act like it's in gear when in Neutral and won't move in Reverse because it's in two gears at once. After the initial failure mode the clutch starts to slip and burn itself up.
The trans must be pulled to repair the clutch.

(Stepping up on to the soapbox)
Many "shift kits" call for the removal of the large spring that rests between the accumulator piston and the valve body. Most believe that the spring cushions the upshift and that removing it will "firm up" the 1-2 upshift, this is in error. The spring plays no part in the upshift process but does serve the purpose of cushioning the rear clutch; it's not uncommon to see the failure of the rear clutch Belleville spring shortly after removing the accumulator spring.
No matter how many magazine gurus or trans tech lines say so, removing the accumulator spring serves no purpose and doing so may lead to parts failure down the line.

(Stepping down from soapbox)
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Old 04-23-2003, 08:58 PM
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6 packin 6 packin is offline
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Hey John
How long have you worked on Trannys? Do you work on others like C6's, TH400's? Just curious, I wish you had done my tranny before it went out after only 150 miles on a fresh rebuild. I called the guy all he said was that its probably the Converter, turned out to be the front drive bushing.
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Old 04-23-2003, 11:39 PM
PLUM_72 PLUM_72 is offline
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Not to steal the thread, but there are a few types of accumulator springs that chrysler has used. If it is recommended to replace it, What is the best one to use? I have seen 3 different types. John, can you shead a little light on this?
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Old 04-24-2003, 03:22 AM
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plonky plonky is offline
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Thanks for all the help fella's. The rear sprag has failed and as such gives no forward drive.

The shift kit is B&M (now I know) and I will have the box finished during the week.

Thanks again

Grant
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Old 04-24-2003, 03:25 AM
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plonky plonky is offline
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I also forgot to say that I'm lucky that I live in a town that has a plethora of drag racer engine builders and circle track gearbox men. At least the job will get done right!

Thanks again
Grant
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Old 04-24-2003, 03:51 AM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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Make sure you get rid of the b&m crap. Most on this boars know not to use there junk. Whether it's there shifters or trans kit's converters, whatever. Dont use this junk or you will be back where you started in no time.

I'd get my stuff from TCI if I were you. They make the best auto tranny stuff around. Check out there site at www.tciauto.com . They can fix you up right.
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Old 04-24-2003, 05:53 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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I'm surprised the sprag turned out to be the culprit, that doesn't explain the initial inability to select Neutral. With a failed sprag the trans should have moved forward by shifting into 1st. In the 1st position the rear band is applied and takes the place of the sprag.

PLUM_72
I prefer the longest accumulator spring, the later short ones don't have much action and are intended for a revamped hydraulic circuit.

Funny thing about brand names, someone somewhere will always have something bad to say about any chosen brand. On some boards TCI is nicknamed Total Crap Incorporated and horror stories abound about their stuff, converters in particular.
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