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#1
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cam break in
I have a elgin cam in my 440 with hyd. lifters. All I got from my engine builder was a card with cam specs. Any idea on the break in? Thanks in advance...
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#2
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staight forward.Prime engine with oil(5x30)fire engine keep RPM at 2000-2500 with minor fluctuation but not less than 2000 for first 20 minutes.Then check for issues like leaks, timing, carb settings.After first 1 hour drain oil and install say 5-10 30 oil or oil of choice.Run for 500-1000 miles change oil and run as desired.I prefer the oil changes to ensure a clean interior enviroment as well as good lubrication to the high load areas of the engine ie cam.
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#3
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when dealing with a brand new engine, along with the new cam, how would break-in procedure change?
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#4
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same-same
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#5
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Make sure the engine will fire up immediately. If you have to let the engine crank over too much it will wipe out the lobes of the cam.
Triple check everything before trying to start the engine. Do a search on this site...sometime last summer we had a well detailed thread going on this very subject. Here is the thread I was talking about... http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...threadid=55650 Good luck, Mopar_Maniac |
#6
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You didn't say what spring pressure you're running, but if it's in excess of 150 lbs at the seat (closed) and 350 over the nose, I would run the engine in on the outer valve springs only.
Mitch |
#7
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Thanks guys, I will post later when we fire this bad boy up!
Woo hoo! |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Not per se. As there is no rubbing of the lifter on the lobe so no wear pattern is produced. But it wouldn't hurt to do it the same way as everything else still needs all that oil to "setup" , ie, the rings need it and the piston skirts need it. As well as the top end. And we all know the bearings need it.
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#10
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<<< how I break a roller cam in. Spend all night putting it in. Load the car on the trailer, haul it 6 hours to a race track. Take it outta the trailer start it up. Go to staging, do burn out and make a pass. Come back, recheck lash.
Done. |
#11
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