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#1
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crane roller rockers
Has anyone used the 1.5 roller rockers? if so, is it worth the money? please let me know. Any tips on instalation?
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#2
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i used a set for about a half a day. They were on the 383 that came with my car. I made it about halfway home and everything went to hell. I threw 2 rods,hole in 2 pistons, bent pushrod, and two burned up roller rockers. Bought a brand new set to replace the old ones(before i found out about the rods and pistons) and they are just sitting there now. Im dying to put them on the 440 that is now in the car, but time and money does not permit.
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#3
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The dollor vs. HP return is low. If your engine is stock, it's the lowest return you'll get. Of course, the modified the engine, the more return you'll get.
I have run Comp Cams roller rockers. They worked just fine. If your running a big cam, stock P-rods may be short. Should you need custom length P-rods, MoPar sells adjustable rods. Purchase adjustable (2) rods, find the length, order your new size or make your own. Dab some molly on the ends of the P-rod and rockers meeting point. |
#4
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BUt being 1.5, is that alrite???
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#5
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What size is your cam? going from a 1.5 to 1.6 ratio increases the lift. (not sure about duration of any of the other stuff). Depends on your piston to valve clearance
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#6
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1.5 is the stock ratio. It's fine. If you were going to 1.6, you would have to calculate the new lift and change springs if need be.
EX; 500 / 1.5 = 333.33333 333.33333 X 1.6 = 533.33333 A gain of .033 lift and now the cam acts a little more agresive due to the valve opening more and faster in the same time span it did because the cam did not change. It will still open and close at the same time. |
#7
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hey I have a set sitting here with the pushrods and I wanted to try them out but I dont know how to adjust them. I currently have a 509 purple shaft. Can someone help me out or give me a website with all the info step by step.
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#8
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The MoPar engines book has the instructions. You can also order the decal for the order in which there adjusted. You spin the engine by hand alittle at a time until the next set of valves are on the base circle and adjust them.
Maybe someone can scan the decal in for you. |
#9
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Right nwo we have the purple shaft hemi grind cam.
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#10
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There is a much easier way to adjust valves than following the mopar sticker. That thing has you all over the place going from side to side and all....but I cant remember the order now. I have it at home I think its...
When the exhaust starts to open, set the intake When the intake starts to close set the exh... But that is probably completely wrong, thats why I write this stuff down I guess. I have only set valves about 100 times...lol |
#11
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here ya go...found this on another site....
Set intakes when exhaust starts to open, set exhaust when intakes close. The lifter must be on the base circle of the cam when you set the valve, and it is at this position for a LOT of degrees, so if you are off 20 engine degrees, it won't make any difference. Your cam lobes have an advertised duration of 314-318°, so out of 720 engine degrees, your lifters should be on the base circle about 402-406°. This isn't quite true because of the geometry of the lifter, but I won't get into that. Suffice it to say that this method will work, and this is one thing that you don't have to get down to one degree. Possibility of variability is fin |
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