Motor Mounts

[PLUM_72]

What is the best way to solve the motor mount breakage problem? I've done some thread searches on this and found everyone agrees that the 10.00 part store mounts do not work very well. Who has experieince with the pricey 130.00 mity-mounts, or the schumacher magnum mount. How well does the new chrysler part perform? For me its only the left/drvrs mount that breaks. Torque straps/chain figure in here too... Whats the preferred method for a mild small block?

[6 packin]

Chrysler solved it in 73 with spool type mounts. They knew the biscuit tye mounts was trouble. Shumacher makes tough factory replacements for those years.

[amxauto-x]

A mild small block shouldn't be breaking motor mounts. Sounds like you have a defective part. Is it a standard tranny? Is everything lined up ok? No binding anywhere?

I've got the $10 ones in my van and AMX [4 spd] and work fine for the last 6 years for the AMX, and 12 years in the van.

[Marvin S]

I was just about to post on the same subject but I am looking at big block mounts for my 67 coronet.One parts store has mounts made in india which are real cheap looking and the steel is thinner that the original.Another has ones made on korea that look better.What the hell is this comeing to when youre choices are this. Does anyone have any other options for me. Thanks

[6 packin]

I have a extra set of B/E body RB mounts the should be the same I belive.

[PLUM_72]

I cant say they break after a half dozen hole shots. But I have had to replace the drivers side mount in the fall after a summers worth of driving. I dont have a torque strap and was considering fabbing one up. But the question with the mounts are still there.

[jasontlit]

Schumacher's torque strap is around $65. I know a chain is cheaper, but doesn't have the adjusatability of Schumacher's part. Plus a way cleaner look in the engine compartment.

I'm also suprised to hear of a mild small block breaking mounts.

I have a mild 340 with Schumacher mounts, no probslems yet, but they only have about 5K miles on them. Although, I suspect they will last longer than the motor!!

[ehostler]

Depending on the application, the Schumaker unit is NOT a direct bolt in. As far as looking cleaner, I use a cable and you cannot see it, unless you are looking for it. On the other hand, the Schumaker unit stands out like a sore thumb.

As you can see from this picture, the prior owner used a cable that was a little too long, so I had to connect it between mount ear 1 and the K-member bolt. When done right, it is connected between mount ear 2 and the K-member bolt.

As far as adjustability goes, it should be snug (or no more than 1/4" of slack). It will last many years, while the mount still buffers the engine vibrations.

http://hemimopar.freeyellow.com/pics/mount2.jpg

[jasontlit]

hmmm...don't know if I'd say that Schumacher's torque strap "sticks out like a sore thumb"... I kinda' the look.

But, true it may not be a bolt in for all apps.

[JVMopar]

$10?? are they gold plated mounts? I got mine for $2 a piece.

I like the cable idea, but I don't know how well those ends are attached and if they will withstand the torque of the motor.

I'm going to have to address my mount situation this summer. I broke the mounts once and it isn't a pretty sight to open the hood and see the motor laying on the exhaust manifolds.

[Marvin S]

I could see where my car had broke a mount years ago from where the aircleaner hit and dented the hood.So with my new paint I would very much like to avoid this.I may make a cabel for mine since I can do this at work on a aircraft cabel maker.It will not break.

[ehostler]

If the ends are terminated properly, they will not come apart on most street/strip engines. Remember, that cable is going to be working with your motor mount and not in place of it.

Currently, the strap that you see pictured is holding up great. When I bought the car, the cable was going the correct route and had too much slack. I did break the motor mount. I haven't felt like replaceing the motor mount yet, just took the slack out of the cable.

I am running an automatic. In gear with my foot on the break, I can bring the engine up to stall and the cable holds tight. I have also nailed her hard from a stop, on many occassions, and it has still held tight.

I am a firm believer in using a cable with a new motor mount.

[flipper35]

I used to twist the cheap piece-O-crap tranny crossmember so I used two threaded rods with heim joints bolted from the frame to the back of the motor where the bellhousing attaches. I haven't noticed any more vibration and the motor is stoutly held in place. Plus you don't see them in the engine compartment.

Another good reason to use the rod is it holds the engine from moving either way, on or off the gas.

[6 packin]

Switching to a 73 up spool mount K member may be a option too. They have revised idler arm location, also it may be time to update to disc brakes also. This would be the route I would go if I had mount trouble on a drum brake A body car. They are bullit proof for sure. Even if there is no rubber there the mount cant fail. I helped a buddy to make a switch on his 72 swinger, got the whole K membern disc brakes,rotors,spindals, mounts and all from a later 70's donar car. It took a whole day, but he was pleased with the results.

[ehostler]

Sure seems like an awful lot of work, when 10 minutes of work and a $5 cable will do the trick.

[moparmotorman]

the motormounts on my cuda'340 have been on for 10 yrs so far. first i rigged a torque-strap with chain, then a few years ago i put in the shoemacher torque strap. i had a recent problem on a friends car with motor mounts, he has a 73 sattelite 4 dr 360, i helped him install new ones[speedpro made in india], after install motor sits too high and fan in contact with shroud. i never heard of anything like this before . original rad & shroud so thats not the prob. we removed shroud so he can drive for now. i'm gonna buy mounts from a different manufacturer and do a physical comparrison has anybody heard of this happening before???

[George G. Leverette]

6 Packin has the correct solution especially on A-bodies where the cross members for 73-76 are plentiful. Purchase the later model front or get it from a donor car and solve several problems at once. Disc brakes with sliders, large bolt pattern for wheels, eleminates the idler arm problem on some models, eleminates the twisted lizzie drag link, provides for the sway bar through the K-member, immediate availability of parts, fail safe motor mount design. Sold my 340 K-member for more than the entire setup, the buyer just had to have those extra washers welded on the K-member.

[Marvin S]

The ones made in India are not made like the original.The Korea mounts look pretty good and appear to be made right.I had NAPA order them again and the next ones that came in where made in the USA.

[SGT]

I bought an expensive set of motor mounts ($40.), I think they are Shumachers....Anyway all they do is drill a hole through the mount, tap one side plate and put a counter sunk bolt through it from the other side.

looks like anyone with a drill and tap set could do this for less than $2 !

I think you could prob. just put a bolt and lock nut through the mount and it would keep it from stretching.

[flipper35]

That's a pretty common fix. Most use a 3/8th grade 8 and a nylock with some washers. Barely tight and the mounts still absorb the vibration and won't come apart.