Holley Carb swap, problems with kickdown linkage

[Fenrir]

1987 Fifth Avenue
318 CI
Lean Burn is removed
Orange box ECU
Edelbrock Performer Intake
4BBL Holley 390 cfm

904 Auto Trans

I am unable to hookup the kickdown linkage after putting the new Holley in. Is there a kit or something for a conversion to do this? I have not been able to find anything from Holley or other parts dealers.

Or perhaps could I get rid of the kickdown entirely somehow?

[amxauto-x]

Is the Holley set up from the factory for Chrysle linkage? If not, do you have the adaptor? If not go to the speed shop and ask for one. To see what it is go to the Holley web site.

Is the throttle cable hooked up the throttle on the carb? Is the stud on the carb to attach the cable?

http://www.holley.com/

[ehostler]

Yes, you need the Chrysler throttle extension bracket. You can get it from most any speed shop or you can also get it from Summitt racing and Jegs.

[jbnova]

I recently switched from a 2bbl to 4bbl Holley on my '67 Barracuda and ended up using the Lokar cable set-up to get the kickdown working right. Works like a charm. I debated for awhile about which cable set-up to go with (Lokar or Bouichillon Performance), and ended up using the Lokar cable and the bracket made by AR Engineering. I got both parts for $109 from http://www.magnumhp.com/. That's what the Bouchillon kit costs WITHOUT A BRACKET. And the bracket from AR Engineering is soooo sweet http://www.arengineering.com. I'm using a M-1 dual plane manifold with 1" spacer and the AR Engineering bracket was a perfect fit.

You could also use the bracket that Lokar makes, it bolts to the corner of the carb instead of the manifold. Summit Racing sells them for about $18 I think.

If you want more info people using Lokar, just type "lokar" into the search. You can search for "kickdown cable" too.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Fenrir
1987 Fifth Avenue
318 CI
Lean Burn is removed
Orange box ECU
Edelbrock Performer Intake
4BBL Holley 390 cfm

904 Auto Trans

I am unable to hookup the kickdown linkage after putting the new Holley in. Is there a kit or something for a conversion to do this? I have not been able to find anything from Holley or other parts dealers.

Or perhaps could I get rid of the kickdown entirely somehow?

Get the adapter for the carb and use the Lokar cable or the stock linkage. DO NOT DRIVE the car with out it hooked up. It will burn up the tranny. The kickdown linkage controls the tranny's line pressure to the govenor. IF it is not attached the pressure will not increase with speed allowing the clutches to slip and will burn up the trans. So make sure you fix it.

Next thing get rid of that carb. It's way too small. When the 318 started coming from the factory with a 4 bbl ( mid to late '70's ) it used an 800 cfm thermoquad. This is what you want for a street car. HAs good mpg until you step on it. Then the increased throotle response shines through. Better than any holley you'll ever use. We use them on all of our race cars.

[jbnova]

If you decide to keep the stock kickdown linkage, Holley part #20-7 is what you need to go on the throttle lever. Make sure you have a 4bbl kickdown linkage. If you originally had a 2bbl carb, your kickdown rod will be too short.

If you go with the cable set-up, you won't need the Holley adaptor. You can see photos of the Lokar cable set-up with the AR Engineering bracket at http://www.arengineering.com/photoga...p_0882_400.jpg

[Fenrir]

Right now I have a spring holding the kickdown part-way. Will the tranny be ok if I drive it like this?

When I take the car to the drag strip I put on a heavier spring which lets it shift around 5000 rpm.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Fenrir
Right now I have a spring holding the kickdown part-way. Will the tranny be ok if I drive it like this?

When I take the car to the drag strip I put on a heavier spring which lets it shift around 5000 rpm.

NO, this is not ok. It should not be moved at all untill its fixed right or the tranny will go. And the stock 2 bbl kick down will work fine. It adjust at the tranny and has plenty of room. If you dont have it get it or the lokar cable or loose your tranny all together.

[Fenrir]

ahh, I just realized I posted the wrong cfm.. its actually a 600 cfm Holley

The carb came with a bad powervalve right out of the box, but when I replaced that, now it purrs like a kitten, and the car starts up even if I just tap the ignition to turn it over.

[Warlock_440]

dwc43, I've been running my warlock with no kickdown linkage for years and i havent had any troubles. I didnt take it off, the truck didnt come with one and i didnt bother to put one on.

Go figure.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Warlock_440
dwc43, I've been running my warlock with no kickdown linkage for years and i havent had any troubles. I didnt take it off, the truck didnt come with one and i didnt bother to put one on.

Go figure.

I dont how? Ask anyone else on here and they will tell you the same. It will burn them up. It regulates line pressure and if it's not adjusted right or not there it will slip the clutches till it's toast. There's only one way that you can have a tranny and not use the linkage. That's if it has a full manual valve body The full manual valve bodies are fixed inside to give max pressure at all times and does not need the kick down. If you have that then you want need the kick down, but if it's stock or a manual/auto street type you must use the kick down or tear up the tranny.

[John Kunkel]

I've run across a few cases where the linkage has been left off and they SEEM to have no problems.
I can't explain it, some folks are just lucky but that doesn't make it a wise decision.

[AndyF]

Hi John, always good to see you posting.

Back when I was a lot younger and didn't know any better, I ran a D200 pickup truck without the KD linkage for several years. (I guess I should call it the throttle pressure linkage!) That tranny eventually toasted the rear band and I lost reverse gear. Not sure if the two events were connected or not.

But I rarely used more than 1/2 throttle on that truck so I suppose that helped. After all, if you never floor it, the throttle pressure linkage will never fully engage anyway.

So I'd think that a person could drive a car with the throttle pressure linkage disconnected provided that they didn't run it at full throttle. Does that seem logical?

[dwc43]

No, it's not logical. As speed increases you need more line pressure for increased holding pressure on the clutches. That's why it's variable by the linkage. Besides your post answered your on question there. You fried yours 'cause of no linkage so why do you think others will survive?

[AndyF]

We'll see what John has to say, I know that he knows his way around a 727 tranny.

[John Kunkel]

It's already been said, driving with the linkage disconnected is playing Russian Roulette, you might pull the trigger on an empty chamber a thousand times or you might blow your brains out on the first pull. Like I said, pure luck.
Driving at less than half throttle undoubtedly increases the life expectancy but look at it this way, you're driving at half throttle with the transmission pressures configured for idle.

[rustycowl]

Maybe the truck has a full-manual v. body conversion. I've never run one, but I think you don't need kickdown linkage for a full manual.
As for the Holley, I have never had good luck with their 'Mopar throttle adapter'. I could never get the KD to work to my satisfaction.
I always thought it was a case of "also fits Mopar with some modification." Translation: "fits Chevrolet; if you can get it to work on anything else, more power to you."

[John Kunkel]

Holleys are my carb if choice, with the correct throttle lever extension, I've never had a problem with the TP linkage as long as it's the correct linkage.
Swapping from a 2-barrel to a 4-barrel has its own set of problems as do some aftermarket manifolds with the factory TP linkage pivots but the correct lever extension is the key to sorting the problems out.