Moving battery to trunk, what about the alternator wire?

[A990]

Most diagrams show routing it to the output side of the cut-off switch to kill the ignition, has anyone tried routing to the starter relay post? Thats also connected to the battery, and would require less wire.

-Ken

btw, NHRAs rule about bolting the battery to "the frame or frame member" is sure a pain on a Mopar.

[rustycowl]

I was unaware of the wording of the battery-mounting rule. What does that mean? The last I heard, admittedly a coupla years ago, was that I needed to use 3/8" fasteners, which I thought was overkill already!

[23T]

It all depends on how you have your kill switch wired, it could be posible that if you wire to the starter the alt power might keep feeding power to the engine and keep it running

[amxauto-x]

I thought the cutoff switch had to completely isolate the battery. Kinda like cutting the cable. With no power going to the engine compartment or anywhere else.

[A990]

Didn't think of that 23T. Your right though, alternator power would continue to feed through the system and keep the engine running. Got too fixated on saving wire lol. The Field wire will have to route directly to the + post. Oh well notaprob.

Do you think 10 ga will be enough for that long run?

Rustycowl
Since Mopar subframes are U channel, the holddown must extend to the buttom of the U, and most kits dont provide long enough bolts to do that. I am going to take a chance and weld 2 strips of angle to the channel and across the floor and bolt through that sort of like how seat mounts are done on some models.

AMX
Your right. When I'm finished, the only wires actually touching the + will be the main feed to the cut-off and the field wire.


Thanks for the replys. Glad I came in here and bounced this idea. It sux when you learn about mistakes in the tech line

See yas at the track!

-Ken

[rustycowl]

I am not sure what your sig is saying. Does that have to do with a 9.90 second race car?
I was redoing my trunk-mounted battery install in my 14 sec '67 Cuda (casual)bracket car. It will never go faster than 12.00. I was just going to run the 3/8" studs through the trunk floor. Are you saying that is insufficient?

[A990]

Rusty
Per the rules, the battery has to be mounted with 3/8" minimum hold downs. J hooks can only be used if the ends are welded shut. They have to go through the "frame or frame member" and a box is only required if you do not put a firewall behind the seat and under the package shelf.

If you are just running on the street, the floor should be beefy enough to hold everything in. NHRA also has that rule about killing the engine with the safety switch, and that requires careful circuit planning

Hopes this helps

-Ken

[The Dartman]

Many times concessions are made for uni body as far as things like battery hold downs, roll cage mounting, and anything that needs to be bolted down. Unless your tech guys is either a) a jerk b) a chevy retard c) an "over interpreter" of the rules or d) all of the above, the 3/8 bolts are sufficient. I have raced my Dart sport at most of the Midwest tracks, both IHRA and NHRA, and have never been told anything about my battery hold down setup.

On the other hand, I have had the tech at Route 66 in Joliet insist on shutting down my Dad's trunk batter 14 second (at the time) Duster by the kill switch. I saw that he was being richard head to some guys in front of may Dad, and I disconnected the alternator wire before we got up there. Suyre enough, the turd bucket shut the car down by the switch.

I have a cutoff switch for my field wire that I flip while racing so the master cutoff works.

Search the archives for this topic, I remember a large thread on this topic that even had wiring diagrams for proper wiring of an alternator car with a trunk mounted battery (including gause of wire to use).

Dartman

[rustycowl]

I should just get a copy of the rules.
I did make a firewall at the pass-through(fastback application). Thanks for the help, I'll check the archives, too.

[A990]

Originally posted by The Dartman
Many times concessions are made for uni body as far as things like battery hold downs, roll cage mounting, and anything that needs to be bolted down. Unless your tech guys is either a) a jerk b) a chevy retard c) an "over interpreter" of the rules or d) all of the above, the 3/8 bolts are sufficient.....

.........shut the car down by the switch.......


Dartman

Yeah Dartman, splitting hairs in the rules is such a waste of resources. Unfortunately though if the tech inspector chooses to do that, then so must the racers. Usually if you elevate it, the track owner will back up the techie making the call. Sounds like Joliet has that sort of mentality.

Sacramento doesn't obsess over battery boxes and kill switches too much. The timing shack is a different story. Run 11.999 without a cage and you are usually gone.

Anyway I wonder if using a relay in the field circuit would be doable. That way the igntion switch would close it, but the cutoff would release it.

I'll check the archives for that post as I do have some other ideas and questions and dont want to regurgitate 'em here.

Have a good weekend
-Ken

[The Dartman]

Regurgitated posts are pretty common in the MoparChat forum. It's really no big deal to talk the same topics over and over so more people get familiar with the topics, and more can answer the questions. For me, one of older posts on this issue I did quite a bit of research for and I probably had a much more intelligent answer then....

Dartman

PS - How about this: my local track says that I have to run a window net in my car. Mind you, this is a 13 flat car now! Thier logic is that if you have a ten point cage and a car that could legally run 10's, you have to have EVERYTHING needed to run in the 10's. I finally got them trained to let the "safest 13 second car in the world" to pass tech without even bringing it to tech. My other personal favorite is requiring date legal 5 point harnesses no matter how fast your car is. Yet, stock seat belts are legal down to 12 flat and can be 30 years old or older. Duhh! Use your head tech boy!

[A990]

I like your combo DB lol It was born to harass the techs.

Is that track NHRA? Don't get me started on their rules designed to schmooze Insurance for cheaper rates while buttering the Manufacturers bread by cramming all sorts of extra stuff down the racers throat. That harness rule is ridiculous. They are getting ready to require recert every 3 years on 'em. (If they havent already) Also heard they are mulling requiring an 8 point cage on anything 12.99 and quicker. Ridiculous.

They also have you by the cojones because if you install a cage, you can't use OEM belts anymore.

Heres one for ya: Bremerton raceway in Wa requires a driveshaft loop for 13.99 and quicker if you run on slicks or DOTs. Regardless of transmission or convertor. Yet its OK to race away on regular tires and go even faster.

Guess them racin tars make it dangerous lolol

-Ken