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Old 05-20-2003, 10:32 PM
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Post This Winters engine build plans?

This winter i will be piecing a Low deck stroker togather. I will be using a mid 70's 400 block for starters. A reground 440 steel crank to 400 mains and using the low deck short rods, with Kieth Black pistons. I will also be using a set of Eddy Performer Rpm heads. That will have bowl work and light clean up on. I will probably going with a Hughes Camshaft (solid) around 240 dur@.050 and around .600 inch lift around maybe 65-70 deg overlap, it will include 1.6 ductile iron rockers. I will be going with a Proform 850 Double Pump card and main body. I am shooting around 10.5:1 for premium fuel. I will still be retaining the shumacher small tube headers. Yea I know. I will be going with a ATI or Dynamic converter. probably 9 with 3800-4200 stall. And 4.30 gears with 28 inch tall tires. i will be upgrading fuel system too. Basiclly I want a maximum street performance, and respectable track times also. I will be adding light weight water pump housing and things to help weight transfer. I want to hear opinions good, or bad, what needs changed or what should stay. It will be going into all steel 73 Duster maybe around 3700 lbs including me.....yea right.
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2003, 09:51 AM
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After you get it done you'll find that it is a real DOG! So I'll take it off your hands as soon as possible! I've been wondering if I should go with the 400 block theme instead of the 440 I have in the garage.
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Old 05-21-2003, 10:19 AM
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It sounds like you are looking for max performance on the street, so why not put a REAL set of headers on that thing? Your choices are, Hooker, Stahl and Hedman fenderwell headers, limited tire clearance and holes in the inner fenders. Pro parts headers (now sold by Bob Mazzolini and Hensley) with two tubes over the frame on the driver's side, and one over on the passenger's (these will let you run power brakes and steering). Mazzolini also has a 1 3/4" header that is under chassis and has good clearance with a low deck (a good primary size for the motor you are building). Your standard el cheapo VERY unequal length (like 18" difference in primary length) b body 1 3/4" header will work with some denting, but why bother, you may as well run the tri-y's.
Otherwise you combo sounds pretty good. It's what I would build if I could find a decent Duster around here and had more money.
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Old 05-21-2003, 11:52 AM
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Yea, I would go with the 2 inch TTI headers, I belive plydus340 has just went with those headers, maybe he can comment on the fitting. i belive it was a 440 he used. There are under chassis headers.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:29 PM
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I've got two set for my car. Both are Hookers at 2 and 2 1/4. Both fender wells. Work great without any probs. Dont have fender wells any way. Running tilt fiber front end which is also a great pice. Can reach everything on the car and can remove the whole thing if need be quickly. Helps lower the front emd weight to get the precentages right on the rear. Lots other light stuff done to it also.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:37 PM
FASTDARTCHESTER FASTDARTCHESTER is offline
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Guys,

I'm not a big block expert but I've been hearing a lot of buzz lately that people running stroked 400's in the higher horsepower catagories (600-700) have been having block failures.

I know 2 people personally that had failures. Anyone else hear of this type of stuff?

They say it's because of the "thin wall" syndrome. Are the walls that thin?
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:43 PM
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Boby Mayes runs in one of the king of the streets classes in a steel Challenger with the 400 strokers and was champion a couple of years. We have not seen any probs like this on his cars. Any one else? They are not really that thin.
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dwc43
Boby Mayes runs in one of the king of the streets classes in a steel Challenger with the 400 strokers and was champion a couple of years. We have not seen any probs like this on his cars. Any one else? They are not really that thin.
First $$ to spend is on a sonic test of the block can save $$$$$ down the road
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by FASTDARTCHESTER
Guys,

I'm not a big block expert but I've been hearing a lot of buzz lately that people running stroked 400's in the higher horsepower catagories (600-700) have been having block failures.

I know 2 people personally that had failures. Anyone else hear of this type of stuff?

They say it's because of the "thin wall" syndrome. Are the walls that thin?
Andy F can tell ya more about that. He done a tech articale in one of the Mopar Mags (think Mopar Action) about the truth behind the thick/thin wall wise tale. He sonice check a large number of Big mill engines from late 60's to late 70's and done things like sonic checking, density/hardness checks. He found that the blocks are no thinner as early blocks but are made of inferior metal.

I think that things like good fastners (rod&main bolts) would have no problem with engines up tp 750 horses, i think he said.

Hey DWC43

I just picked up a old steel 440 crank, I know the mains will turn ok, i belive there turned down 1/8th inch to 400 mains, the rods are turned all ready. What oversize bearings are available for the 440? Also may consider offset grinding crank pin and using chebby 2.2 inch bearings sizes. I wouldnt think that it would cost a few dollars more going this route, he's gotta turn the counter weights and journals down any way. Does KB make off the self pistons for this combo? I would like this engine to last more than one season also. it shouldnt see much more than 6000. I am bascily lookin for a low 11 sec, or high 10 sec street car, without power adders, like NOS.....which may come later anyway.
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69 Super Bee......new 500 cid comin soon!
73 Duster witha missing 440/727
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  #10  
Old 05-21-2003, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 23T


First $$ to spend is on a sonic test of the block can save $$$$$ down the road
I agree.
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  #11  
Old 05-21-2003, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6 packin


Andy F can tell ya more about that. He done a tech articale in one of the Mopar Mags (think Mopar Action) about the truth behind the thick/thin wall wise tale. He sonice check a large number of Big mill engines from late 60's to late 70's and done things like sonic checking, density/hardness checks. He found that the blocks are no thinner as early blocks but are made of inferior metal.

I think that things like good fastners (rod&main bolts) would have no problem with engines up tp 750 horses, i think he said.

Hey DWC43

I just picked up a old steel 440 crank, I know the mains will turn ok, i belive there turned down 1/8th inch to 400 mains, the rods are turned all ready. What oversize bearings are available for the 440? Also may consider offset grinding crank pin and using chebby 2.2 inch bearings sizes. I wouldnt think that it would cost a few dollars more going this route, he's gotta turn the counter weights and journals down any way. Does KB make off the self pistons for this combo? I would like this engine to last more than one season also. it shouldnt see much more than 6000. I am bascily lookin for a low 11 sec, or high 10 sec street car, without power adders, like NOS.....which may come later anyway.

I want to say that KB does have off the shelf pistons, but I just dont remember. I will have to check.
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