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  #1  
Old 06-27-2003, 11:44 PM
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Default 727 Shifting Issues

Finally been out cruiseing in my Duster, I can't feel any shifts from the tranny but wasn't worried because I knew it hadd to eb shifting because the rpms where ok. Going down a hill I decided to downshift to 2nd and all was good the rpms came up car slowed. When I tried 1st there was no change. The other thing I noticed is when I back up it feels like the park brake is on -which its not- Does this sound like a band adjustment is needed? The tranny was supposedly rebuilt about 1000km ago. I dont have the kickdownlinkage set up properly yet but didnt think it would cause anything like this.
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2003, 10:46 AM
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If you dont have that kickdown linkage set up right, you WILL burn that tranny out in less than 20 miles. (Been there done that more than once.)
Shifting into first when going to fast, the tranny won't go into first , but will wait until the speed is OK to do so.
The feeling of the brakes on my be a tight fitting drum over the shoes issue.
Adjust the bands as per the manuals.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2003, 12:30 PM
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Rumble you took the words right out of my mouth ... again.
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2003, 03:32 PM
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rumble-d43
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2003, 03:40 PM
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rolleyes2

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Old 06-28-2003, 04:05 PM
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The problem when you're in reverse could also be cause by low tranny fluid. Hook up your "Kick down" and check the fluid level. However, if you've been driving it the fluid is probably doo dooo brown by now, so you'll want to flush it anyway.

Later,

Greg
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2003, 05:00 PM
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The fluid is nice clean and pink and actully overfull. The drums arn't set up to tight either. Checked already. It's suypposed ton have a 3000rpm stall in it but the guy I bought the car from knew nothing about where it came from. The kinkdownlinkage is hooked up but the Holley carb linkage some redneck welded a post onto rather then get the right peice so I have the linkage adjusted as much as I can go. Its only taken a few little trips around my small town. Waiting untill I get my demon from cuda to do anything much linkage wise. Was just curious about the tranny.
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Old 06-28-2003, 06:57 PM
skankweirdall skankweirdall is offline
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You have to have sufficient throttle pressure or it will burn out the front clutches. The front clutch is applied for 3rd and reverse. The fact that you had no first gear braking would indicate a worn, out of adjustment rear band or rear band servo/seal problem. The rear band is applied in reverse and MANUAL 1st only. This assumes that the trans hasn't been modified with anything more than shift improver kit or the like.
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2003, 10:34 PM
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Well whats in the tranny is all unknowen. It was rebuilt by a friend of his. Not currently on speaking terms with the guy I bought it from. It shifts way to soft for any kind of a shift kit. Does anyone have the procedure for band adjustments?
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  #10  
Old 06-28-2003, 10:58 PM
skankweirdall skankweirdall is offline
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You'll have to pull the pan. The band adjustment is on the L/R lever at the back of the case. First pry down on the lever to see how far it moves before tightening the band on the drum. Over 1/2 an inch and that is probably your problem. Loosen the lock nut, I like to spin the lock nut off. Snug up the adjusting screw, just lightly snug mind you, the spec is 72 in/lbs. Then put the lock nut back on, spin it down but don't tighten it. Back off the adjusting screw 2 1/2 turns and then while holding the adjusting screw tighten down the locking nut.

If the lever doesn't move that far then you probably have a dried up servo seal. It can be replaced in the car but the tailshaft has to come off to get the pivot pin out. It's also much easier if you remove the valve body. Now would be the time to install a shift kit if you want to.


Good luck and get that kickdown straightened out pronto.
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  #11  
Old 06-29-2003, 12:26 AM
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Well since redneck repairs made the kick down non-operational I had to use some to make it work. Put a bolt in the back half of the slot so I have enough adjustment to make it work. Seems to have fixed the problem pretty much. I think a band adjustment is still in order.
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:03 AM
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My car won't accerate?

I don't have the throttle linkage hooked up yet and the peddle just lays on the floor.....????

HEY YOU GUYS!

You MUST run that pump pressure linkage or you'll waste your tranny, don't drive it untill you get it all installed correctly or put on the Lokar cable system but get the pump pressure linkage hooked up.
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:30 AM
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I think everyone should have a late 60's early 70's mopar service manual in their posession, and they should read them, front to back before working on their mopar. I even think you can get them on CD now (if you have a PC that is, why didn't they make them in PDF format so even us minority MAC users could read them?). I am not being a smartass here, those manuals have most of the info you would ever need for a stock and most modified mopars. Then you come here for the rest of the info from the ever helpful people on this board (well, most of them anyway).

This is about the 10th post I have read regarding not knowing the importance of or how to set up kick down linkage (or throttle pressure linkage as it is correctly known). The manual gives detailed instructions as to how this is done.

The most common problem is putting a four barrel on where a two barrel where a two barrel used to live on cars with the one piece throttle rod. With the extra two barrels, now the linkage is too short by over an inch. The cure is either to get the right factory four barrel linkage or the slick Locar cable linkage, or take the flat bar piece with slot in it and make it longer. This is the no buck method I have always used in the past. You simply take your trusty hack saw and cut the link behind the slot. Now mock up the link by putting the two pieces on in their respective locations, and with the lever on the trans all the way forward, and the carb closed and off fast idle (this may require a helper) measure the space between the two pieces of the link. Remove the two pieces and cut a piece of similar flat bar to the measurement you took in the mock up. Now line everything up on the bench and weld the pieces together. If you are careful, and if you care how it looks, you can make the extension invisible, paint it black and slam it on the car. If you don't care how it looks just slam it on the car. Check to make sure the lever on the trans is all the way forward and that the slot is bottomed on the carb stud with the carb off fast idle. If not, adjust the clevis on the trans lever to achieve this. 9 out of 10 times you are now adjusted properly. If not, refer to the manual.
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  #14  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:32 AM
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P.S. you can do the same thing for 3 piece kickdown rods by cutting and extending the rod from the carb to the first bell crank.
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:43 AM
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When all else fails..
Quote:
"and they should read them, front to back before working on their mopar"
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  #16  
Old 07-07-2003, 05:14 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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I think everyone should have a late 60's early 70's mopar service manual in their posession, and they should read them, front to back before working on their mopar.

I'll go a step farther, everybody should have the specific FSM for each Mopar they own.
It never ceases to amaze me that car guys will think nothing of spending $2-3K on wheels and tires and endless go-fast parts but won't spring $60-80 for a FSM.
In many cases they'll destroy many times more than that in parts from sheer ignorance that could have been remedied by consulting the book.
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  #17  
Old 07-07-2003, 06:33 PM
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I posted, asking about the FSM on CD. I didn't get much for favorable response. Seems most thot they were poor quality.
That being a given, where do I buy the real mc coy for the 64 and 65 B body cars??
TIA,
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  #18  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:03 PM
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I read the book and knew about it, but because they "welded" a post to the linkage on the side of the Holley rather then put proper linkage on the kickdown linkage had no way of being adjusted enough to make it work. So I improvised untill I get my Demon from Don. It still seems to be slipping almost when I stick it in reverse. No its not the drums stuck on either. Just seems liek I need far to much rpm to make it roll. Forward is no problem. But since the Holley decided to make itself into a fountain and leak like a sive suddenly I'm stuck till the demon is here anyways
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