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  #1  
Old 06-28-2003, 12:30 AM
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Default Pilot bearing questions

Alright guys... as I am about ready to put the V8 into my dakota, i came across some questions about the pilot bearing.

First, is it a bearing or a bushing? This is the first ive played with V8 stick cars, so im not sure about any of this

Ive read in the archives that the magnum engines have a roller bearing that can be used instead?

is there any way to drill a crank when its in an engine?

see, heres the thing.. my dak will have a NV3500 (late model) tranny, and it will be getting a 340. The 340 is still apart, so i could get the crank drilled no problem. But before the 340 goes in, i'll be putting in an assembled and running 318 (just so i can sort out the electronics). The 318 was the origional engine in my dads auto pickup. Ive heard theres the chance that it may already be drilled.... but if not...!?!

One last thing, is there a different size for old 4-spds vs new 5-spds?

Thanks!!
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2003, 09:54 AM
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Yes there is a pilot bushing and they also make a piolt roller bearing and yes there is a posibility your crank in drilled for a standard tranny and no you CAN NOT drill the crank in the block.
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:07 AM
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Jeff,

There are two different bearings available for the magnum engine from MP. One is a roller bearing type and the other is not. I have been told to use the one that is a non-roller bearing type.
I went to find the one I had to give you a part # but I have misplaced it. I know its there somewhere, just lost temporarily. If you want to use it in your 340, the crank will definitely need to be sized to fit the pilot bearing. My motor was already together when I discovered this fact so I didnt use mine, opting instead to use the stock type bushing. If you do a search here on Moparchat for pilot bushing , you'll find one from Kekoakeakani, who gives pics and part #s.

Good luck
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Old 06-28-2003, 12:34 PM
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on this webpage he says this:

Quote:
Oh yeah, I installed the new style pilot bearing assembly used on the Rams and Dakotas. Very Sweet, no longer do you have to worry if your crank is finish reamed for a pilot bushing. This thing is a combination roller bearing and adapter that places the pilot bearing inside the centering ring on the crank, instead of inside the crank. Works like a champ. MoPar part number is 53009180 and it's called a sleeve. Cost about $6.00, cheap at double the price compared to having to pull and machne the crank
Is this the bearing he used?

Drilling the 340 is no problem, its the already assembled 318 that i need a solution for
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Old 06-28-2003, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbeckwith
you'll find one from Kekoakeakani
sure thats right?
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Old 06-28-2003, 01:47 PM
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I have a bca number for this piece at the shop(the roller brg, that fits in the outer ring.

I'll try to get it today
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Old 06-28-2003, 02:02 PM
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thank ya sir!

A friend of mine gave me a number for a NAPA part that supposidly doesnt require the crank drilling.
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Old 06-28-2003, 03:48 PM
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federal mogul/BCA bearing #FC-69907

I can't remember what the cost on it was. I'm guessing it was about $12 canadian.

It isn't a very common part. It took a week for me to get it. Had to come out of the USA.

Hope this helps
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Old 06-28-2003, 11:31 PM
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Jeff,

cant find the post by the Hawaiian guy Kekoakeakani but I did find this thread with the same picture and part numbers.

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...=pilot+bearing

hope this helps some.

If the 318 has been drilled for a bushing originally you can just use the stock bushing.

Bruce
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:11 AM
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Yeah, as a previous poster said stay away from drilling the crank! if you drill too far you can ruin the crank. My friend bought a brand new crank from Mopar(many years ago) and it was drilled too deep from the factory. It leaked oil and they would not take it back!
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  #11  
Old 06-29-2003, 11:48 AM
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4 Door: I'm not sure about small blocks, but the B engine cranks for automatics had rough finished pilot holes. The hole is not only too small for the bushing but it's also NOT concentric with the crank centerline. I used to bring the cranks to Richie Saulino (machinist buddy) to make them right. He bored the hole on his Bridgeport. I put a bushing into an automatic crank once with the engine in the car. I measured the I.D. of the hole and also used a dial indicator to measure it's runout. Then, using a bench grinder, I ground down the O.D. of the bushing with the correct offset using a dial caliper. It worked fine and only took about 1/2 hour to get it right.
Chris: Was it me that you were referring to with the leaky crank? That crankshaft was NEW from Chrysler and the pilot hole intersected with the connecting rod oil hole (tiny hole). We put that into Walter's 4 speed Challenger and wondered why the clutch slipped so bad. I had Richie weld up the hole and cut 1/2" off the trans pilot. The friggin' thing STILL leaked so we swapped that crank into an automatic car (a little lube oil for the converter pilot is good- right?).
Ken B.
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2003, 12:55 PM
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That's the point of the rollerized adapter/buching. It moves the pilot out to the outer flange. The large area where the nose of the TC would normally go.

No drilling required, unless the hole isn't deep enough to clear the nose of the transmission. The rough hole isn't used.

Impostant to check that, as I have seen a new 440 seized because it wasn't checked.
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Old 06-29-2003, 12:59 PM
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Thanks guys for all the new info, but Im somewhat confused now. Some people say that bigger bearing wont work unless you have that centering ring machined perfectly center and larger, and some say it just fits into the ring with no work or problems. I wont be able to pull the crank on the 318, but I would still very much like to use it with my manual trans for a short term.
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Old 06-29-2003, 01:06 PM
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The larger outer area,(where the rollerized brg goes) is already machined to be on center. The brg will tap in with a hammer, as it is supposed to.

I have fitted my sample bearing to both bigblock and smallblock cranks. No drilling required, just tap, tap, tap.
Like I said, watch for the nose of the input shaft being too long, and applying thrust to the engine.

If it is tight, and you don't want to pull the crank, you can trim the end of the shaft.

It doesn't affect the pilot(because it ride further down the shaft now) but obviously the trans is now suited for engines that have had the more outward type of pilot installed.
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Old 06-29-2003, 02:38 PM
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alright, i will be trying that then! Thanks so much!
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