Modified M1 W2 manifold picture, need opinions!

[Fast One]

I had to modify this W2 M1 Mopar manifold because it didn't flow the greatest on the flow bench, base plate plenum area at the top of the runner had a sharp edge that came down quite low & cut off the top of the runner entrance blocking flow.

I think the manifold needs some more work to get it working properly, some have said these manifolds have fuel distribution problems also, any ideas or opinions most welcome

Will be doing another flow test before going any further.

[jelsr]

You might check the MP Engine book (the latest one). Mine has lots of pictures and descriptions on where to place "popsicle sticks" for fuel distribution problems but my book is too old to show any M1 stuff.

[skankweirdall]

I used one of these manifolds when I had W2's on my car. Never did flow it though. I smoothed everything, blocked the water, matched the ports and ran it like that. No popsicle sticks. I'm sure it wasn't optimal but it worked OK.

[Fast One]

Thanks guys, yes I only have the real old book.

To anyone that happens to read this topic, whatever you do if getting one of these manifolds, don't just bolt it on & hope for the best, it HURTS flow real bad.

[Nightri1]

Check to see if a "turtle" would help any. I know Brodix sells them and there may be others available.

[sanborn]

The M1 is basically a copy of the Holley "Strip Dominator" that was developed in the late 70s(kind of old technology). The M1 has the same fuel distribution problems the Holley had(unless you do some serious port work). They did improve the casting pattern somewhat-the intake runners match the W2 head a little better.

All of the Holleys and the one M1 I've owned required TIG welding two intake runners and recontouring to fit the stock W2 intake runner.

My experience is the intake entrance needs more rounding(Where you have already ground) to help flow upstairs in RPM range. And, the plenium was too small-a 2" spacer always helped. For drag racing a 3" spacer would probably be better- especially if you installed a "turtle" in the floor to help equalize fuel distribution.

Mopar has a better single plain intake out, #P4876829AB, but it is designed for the 9.200" blocks. Aluminum spacers aren't rocket science though. But, this intake requires a lot of work to perform properly and a 1.500" spacer is required.

[Fast One]

Thanks Sanborn, very helpful info.

[rumblefish360]

Out of the single plane intakes, which one performs best out of the box?
Also, for those whom do not own or use a grinder, what type of cost can this run? Who does this type of work?

Fast 1, looks good. Care to share details of bits used?

[sanborn]

Rumble, I guess the newer type Mopar intake works best "out of the box". But, none of them fit really well! After that, the M1 is probably a little better than the early Holley. The "fall angle" of the Mopar intake runner matches the W2 runner intake angle better. Caution, this may not be true for standard heads- don't know!

How much does it cost to be equipped to do your own intake work? Don't exactly know-How high is high?

You can purchase an air grinder for $30, buy some rotary files for $10-15 each. With this you can do some work.

What do I use? I use a Makita electric high speed grinder(older than dirt!) that works really well. I really don't like the air grinders (although I did several sets of heads/intakes with air). DoAll makes a really nice stationary drive/flexible shaft unit($$$).

For rotary files, to get really serious, you need an aluminum hogging file, an intermediate file and a polishing mandrel. BTW, there is a difference between aluminum and iron files! I use a variety of files from 6-8" long mandrels on down to the shortys! You needs lots of spray kerosene(WD 40 works well), a source of air (to blow away the cuttings) AND VERY GOOD GOGGLES. Get a hot aluminum chip in your eye and you will always use goggles! You need a good light source(to see what you are doing) and for really good work, an adjustable jig to bolt the intake/head to that can be rotated for optimum angle. Really serious porting guys sometimes even cut the intake apart, port it, then weld it back together/machine surfaces, etc.

Down here, lots of serious shops do intake work. Prices vary-sometimes gets pretty expensive. The only time I had an intake done was several years ago. Bought a set of Chapman CNC W8 heads, bought a Mopar W8 intake, sent it to Chapman for porting, cost was $960 for porting. How much is 20HP worth? That seems to be the going price for good porting work(including TIG work if necessary, flow bench, spacer work, etc.). Now you know why I said "How high is high?".

[rumblefish360]

LOL True, how high is high. For racing purpose's, I can see spending the money to chase the money. Everything is expensive when your chasing the money.

Ummmm, the kero or WD-40 is to keep it cool and lubed?

Anybody make a jig for intakes (or heads)? I could fab my own. Just gotta think before I weld.

Thanks

[Fast One]

Rumble, the work I've done so far was with using a MENLO aluminum cutter ( OV-8 ) with a 6 inch shaft & ( OV-6 ) smaller size to finish tighter corners, then finish with sanding rollers, course grade 40 grit.

I use a METABO elecric grinder, with variable speed control, model number GE 700, the next size up is too heavy.

It's a lot easier to use the electric, just plug it in & away you go, I don't mind using the air grinder because you can get good variation in the speed control once you master the technique but the electric is more convenient, the weight difference takes a while to get used to, though after a while it's not noticed.

NB, if you want to save a few bucks when using sanding rollers, cut a piece of 1/4 inch rod of about 6 inch in length, cut a slit of approx 1-1/4 inch at one end, go to the hardware store & buy a 1 inch strap of course sand paper ( the type you use for the small belt sanders ), cut it into 3 inch pieces, then slide a piece into the slit & roll it around going the direction of the rotation, then if you have a hot glue gun put a dab of glue on the inside of the roll, then you have a made a cheap sanding roller.

[sanborn]

Rumble, the kerosene keep the cutter flutes clean and cools the aluminum (the expansion of the aluminum is much greater than the steel rotary file and cooling the aluminum quickly helps to peel the aluminum out).

My intake/head jig was home made years ago, given to me by a very good friend. Mine clamps in the vise on the workbench. I've seen others that fit on an engine stand. Visualize taking the rotating head out of an engine stand, replacing it with a head that rotates(bar stock) , welded to the bar stock is a piece of heavy wall 2" angle, about 24" long. One leg of the angle has slots milled in it to attach a head/intake to. The round bar stock with the angle welded to it rotates just like an engine would.

[rumblefish360]

WOW! Thanks fellas. Now I just need practice. If I ever get the time, I have a set of 1.88/ 360 heads to do.
I'll give you guys a shout on the work with pics.