360 buildup questions

[Thomas]

I bought a recently rebuilt 360 that I plan on using as the powerplant for my 13-second-capable-but-also-daily-driver '73 Dart. I've decided to swap in a MP 268/272, .450/.455 cam and a set of Rhoades lifters that I got with the engine. Now I've got a few questions:

- For the level of performance that I want, and the cam that I've chosen, should I need to mill my heads at all? The pistons are flat-top stock replacement, .030 over. I need to be able to run pump gas.

- Given my goals, would either a stock '73 340 4bbl manifold or a stock '78 360 4bbl manifold be a good choice? I've got a Carter AFB 625 carb I can use.

- Can I buy a weight kit and reuse my 318 torque converter? I'd like to run a higher stall converter, but I'm trying find a used one to save some money. I need a solution in the mean time.

Thanks for any help!

[PRO]

Sounds like a great project!! Heres what I'd shoot for,with this cam you'd like to have 9-9.5 comp,stock you have around 8.2,so milling your heads ,030 will give you 8.7,you want more and can mill up to .060 but then you'll have to mill your int and milling a cast iron int,well lets just say..forget it and go buy an aluminum one.But even at 8.7 it will be ok,and the 73 int is the better choice w/the carter carb,although I think 13s is a pessimistic outlook,14s is closer to reality.(you'll still beat new commodes and rustwangs!!)You can reweight your conv. but the weight kit from chrysler cost $50,you can buy an Alabama 2200 stall New for $139(Koller dodge).In reality if you want 13s youll need 9-9.5:1 comp,alum int,340 cam or better,headers and a decent rear gear(3.55,3.91) and a stall conv. But 14s is a very respectable time for a daily driver that delivers decent mpg......PRO...

[Christopher]

You can also use the B&M flexplate which allows you to use the 318 converter behind a 360 with out adding any weight.

[speedy]

ALSO you will have a problem with traction . that's allot of tork and getting the the car to hook up would be a problem.i would use the mopar spring relocating kit so you could get more tire clearence and a pinion snubber.I had a 72 dart nice car!!

[360duster]

Use the lifters that you got with the cam & throw the rhoades lifters away. They are for low torque overcammed engines.Your 360 and this cam will have plenty of bottom end torque with the standard lifters & you won`t have to listen to all the lifters ticking at idle.I tried the rhoades lifters once & didn`t like them.

[johnjdodge]

I'd step up to a .484 cam if you still haven't bought the .455 (stock 340 ?). Rhoads lifters were the initial ones on market, & noted for being noisy. With such a relatively mild cam, do you really need variable duration lifters? I would go with the 73 intake, since the 78 360 has to many smog provisions to address if your going to port iy up.. Get the converter PRO mentioned, it's not worth the effort to balance a 318? converter to 360. You say the 360 was "redone", but how?, was it statically balanced (internally)? Probably not.

[DartGT66]

I agree with the above. Although I have been happy with the Rhoads lifters, I think you don't need them with the 268/272 cam. Otherwise your package sounds good, just try to get more CR by milling the heads. I think the '73 340 intake and the '78 360 intakes are about equal, both are for spreadbore TQ's; the later intake may have more smog equipment but it can be removed to make it equal to the '73. If the intakes are about the same price, take the '73; less work with that. I had about the same combo in my '73 Valiant, it run 14.2's at 98-100 mph with a stock 904 converter (about 2200 stall, maybe a /6 unit?) and 2.95 gears.

[Thomas]

Thanks for all the input. It sounds like the majority of you think that I could go with a bigger cam and still stay streetable since I'm using the Rhoads lifters. How does the MP 280/280, .474/.474 sound? I have to admit that the .484 cam scares me a little. I really don't want to lose too much low end performance since I'll be driving it every day. Do you think that the '73 340 intake will work all right with a larger cam?

I also have a question for PRO. I didn't realize that you have to mill the intake if you mill the heads beyond .030. I thought that beyond .030 you could mill the heads a little where the intake mates up.

[Hemi Mike]

I use the standard Edelbrock performer on a similar 360 combo not only for the fact that the runners are a slightly better design than stock, but more important is the weight savings of the aluminun casting. It is substantial. It cost me $60 in the local auto trade paper.
True the runners are a little smaller than the stock 360's, but low and midrange torque feel great on a daily driver. Especially with the small Holley #1850, 600 vac. sec. carb I use.
Use a 1/2" or 1" four hole carb spacer if you can fit. This made a BIG low/mid power improvement for my setup. My shift point is 5200rpm with a 223/230 cam and blockhuggers.
When you're ready for more, use the Edelbrock RPM or LD340 and Holley #3310, 750 vac. carb. This will however soften the bottom end. Takes some getting use to on a daily driver.
With 9:1 you will be making some truly awsome street power. GOOD LUCK
-Mike

[This message has been edited by Hemi Mike (edited December 29, 1999).]

[5thAve]

When I swapped my '79 stock 360 into an '88 5th last summer I had the problem that the 905 tranny (727 died) that was on the 360 was shot so I had to use the 905/999 that was in the Fifth. This tranny has 300,000+mi on it so I didn't want to buy a new/rebuilt torque converter for it and I couldn't be bothered waiting around for the B&N flexplate. I ended up taking the torque converter to a transmission shop in the area that welded a weight on it for $30 (like $18 US). The weight they put on looks like it was once on another torque converter- it has blue paint which is chipping off, has 2 factory weld spots on the center and has the corners chopped off to make it fit between the tabs on the flexplate. It works and the price was right!

[This message has been edited by 5thAve (edited December 29, 1999).]

[360duster]

Yes i would go with the 280/470 cam.I had this cam in the first engine i built for the duster.It ran 8.60 in eight mile,thats mid 13 in the quarter.It looked stock & suprised a lot or chevys.The combo was 280/470 cam dished pistons 8-1 compression,stock bottom end .o30 over.74 cast iron intake with a thermoquad off a 4oo engine,small tube headers,recurved electronic dist.,stock j heads,1.88 int.valve no port work, 727 trans stock convertor, 8 3/4 sure grip with 4.10 gears,sticky street tires.It weighed 3410 with me in it.It was cheap & fast.