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  #1  
Old 07-07-2003, 04:06 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Default Help! Support The Mopar Name...Conclusion

Before I start, lets just not get into another "oil war" k? heheh

I ended up not running at all, I put the 750 on only to find out the...the...I cant think of the name but its the thing at the bottom of the carb with the lever and the diaphram inside, yeah that thing was leaking due to 3 stripped screw holes. I fixed it the redneck way, or the jury-rig way if you wanna be politically correct about it. I got 3 new BIGGER sheet metal screws and JB welded the sucker solid then I sealed it right around with JB...aint no gas leaking from THAT end. Im putting it on tommorow ill tell you how it goes. Also, come to find out the datsun didnt even show up at the drags, though I wasnt gonna race him there (the road leading up to the drags is a 4 mile perfect straightaway with 2 bridges that mark about 2/3 mile that people race on). I know im gonna hear it from you Safety Patrolers out there but if its any consolation, I DO wear a DOT approved helmet during street races. I think with all those mods you guys mentioned i could get my car in the 14's along with my carb.

I been hearing about this 4 hole spacer adding bottom end. Is it really noticable? My bottom end is SOOO bad the announcer thought I was cruising off the line so my car wouldnt break. From then on my car was reffered to as "Old-Smokey". You should see the video...all you hear is "Oooolllldd smokey just creeeeeps of the line...good reaction time though! .534!" The smokey part came up because I like to do long smokey burnouts with my 185 street tires ("hahahah watch me piss off the crew in the staging area.") Wow, ever notice that all my posts end up being novels?

1 more thing. I got an 8 3/4 rear from a super-bee. How difficult would it be to put it in my dart? What mods would have to be done? Do I need a mig-welder?(cuz I dont have access to one, only got an arc). The super bee also came with a 383, should I put that in or stick with the 318? Keep in mind this car started off as a /6 and the mounts in now arent shumacher they're arced on.

Thanks for your help and support guys.
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2003, 04:37 AM
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1972roadrunner 1972roadrunner is offline
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jb welded the fuel pump? ouch! i'd stick an electric unit by the tank, and bypass the mechanical. easier starts after long periods of sittin around, and after carb switches, a couple of seconds and the bowls are full without crankin the engine...

as for the 4hole, i've heard a lot about it too, but i'm stickin with my big open one and my NOS plate ...

can't help you on your rear end questions...sorry.

good luck!
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2003, 06:24 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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oh HELL no! I didnt JB the fuel pump, wouldnt wanna mess up my pretty pretty block hehehe, just JBed the diaphram thing on the bottom of my carb. I aint THAT rednecky. Besides, I got the carb for free and it fools a lot of people "Is that a double pump?!?" hahah. It has a dual fuel inlet but its not double pump, weird huh? even has the pattern on the bowl for an extra diaphram with plunger thingy on the other side but its blocked off from the factory. Ever heard of these Holleys before? I even looked it up in a holley carb list, its a 4160 NOT a 4150 (...or was that the other way around?) Anyways lets just say it uses the double pump parts without being a double pump...it just came like that.
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  #4  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:22 AM
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I believe your referring to the accelerator pump..JB welded with machine screws huh.....so now you have the wick all you need is a match......

Blistering a set of street tires does 2 things.....
1. Brings all the resin in the tire to the surface, which on a street tire destroys all traction.
2. Pisses off all the guy's behind you with slicks, peels off the good rubber exiting the box and lays down greasy teacks from your tires in the launch area.

It's $$$$ going up in the air for no apparent good reason?

4 hole spacers distribute fuel and aid in atomization at low RPM. They improve idle quality and boost low end tork. 1 hole spacers are for top end volume, hence the 1 hole system for Nos, which is used at higher RPM.
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2003, 11:22 AM
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wanabee wanabee is offline
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Exclamation 2 beeeeeeeeee.........................

DODGEBOY318:

whats up with this super bee you keep mentioning?

is it that thrashed?

that is the car you put your money in if it is restorable.

tell us all about that bee, ok!!!

as far as the rear end goes, i do believe it is only a slight mod to get it to fit. a slight narrowing of the unit i believe?
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  #6  
Old 07-07-2003, 12:38 PM
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OH! you were talkin bout the carb! ok...that makes more sense.
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  #7  
Old 07-07-2003, 02:45 PM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Well just put the 750 on and it STILL leaks...come to find out I didnt even tighten the float bowl screws, they were just hand tightened on but it STILL leaks from either the accelerator pump screws or somewhere in behind, I cant see it from up front. This would be much easier if I had an electric fuel pump but oh well.
Does putting bigger squirters (you know, the one that screws on the primary side at the top) add more power? The 750's one has holes that are noticably bigger so I put it on and it fit, now im about to test it. Be back in 10 min to tell you how it went. Also, been running this whole time without the vaccum advance on the dist. so lets put that on shall we?

About that super-bee-
The trunk has a 1 1/2 foot rot hole and is caving in but other than that its just the normal quarter pannel rust. The interior is not bad although it could use a new dash (what unrestored dodge couldnt?). I didnt really want to restore that car because of its weight which is MUCH heavier than my car even if mine is 4 door. Maybe once I buy my mig ill coupeify my car but if you see the bee you'll know why I dont want to restore it. Ill take some pics and show you on this thread.
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2003, 03:52 PM
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cuda66273 cuda66273 is offline
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Maybe I'm getting dillusional in my old age but are we talking about a 750 on a 318?????

No the bigger squirters and 50cc pumps will flood your motor you need a 525 or smaller on that stock 318.

The vaccum advance is to increase timing at part throttle for cruising fuel economy....what are you doing anyhow????????
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2003, 03:38 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Hehe, read the previous "Help! Support the mopar name" thread. I got all my cars specs there, the block and pistons are stock but it has a cam, headers, intake, and asst. goodies. I been experiencing a top end surge which is what leads me (and a lot of other mopar members) to believe its a lean condition problem. A 750 should feed my engine better than a 600 right? Also, im looking into getting a carter high volume fuel pump, just to keep it mechanical. If not...then just a holley red

Update! My car sucks even more now!
For some odd reason the vaccum nozzle at the top passenger side(the larger one) of the carb had a hose running to a small vaccum nozzle at the base of the carb. I looked in a holley diagram and found out that the "Big One" should be hooked up to the vaccum advance on the dist. so I hooked it up straight now theres a 1/4 throttle miss when nearing about 3500-4000 RPM, under 1/2-WOT there is no miss what-so-ever and the car feels faster than before. What could be causing this? Tommorow morning ill tinker with it more. God...I have 4 holleys and NOT ONE damn carter...JUST GIVE ME A CARTER!
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  #10  
Old 07-08-2003, 08:26 PM
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fastmopars .inc fastmopars .inc is offline
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Default well

okay, well, you need to give up on the 4 door and build the b.
being primarily a dart man myself (my dart is the nicest of the three cars and its the car i drive every day =P ) normally i would say stick with the a-body but 4 doors are ugly and heavy and mig welding the doors shut is not the easiest way to gain respect at the race track.
anyways
ditch that 318. you seem to want a 360 since you are buying all your performance parts as if you had one. sell that 750 carb if your not buying a different motor. by a 500 carter if its your driver or a 600 if you like speed. i tried both of them on my 318 street/strip/ low 15 sec car and the 500 got great milage and pulled like a raped ape to about 4000 rpm than just died off. the 600 kept the power going a little longer but was slightly milder off the line and much harder on gas.

you have a 3310 carburetor. either get rid of it or at least hook it up correctly. hook the dist advance to the timed vacuum port on the passenger side of the front metering block.
plug the one on the bottom. get your hokey pokey accelerator pump fix out of there and buy another pump and get the screws. holley has made like 15 bajillion carburetors so getting this stuff isn't hard. your right, the seal around the diaphragm is probably jbwelded tight, but the pump itself probably wasn't setup anywhere near right and could have ripped the rubber diaphragm itself.

i bet there are probably a couple other things wrong with your car (hey, we all started somewhere, and some of us don't have anyone we know that knows what they are doing with these things) but without being there to notice them, i couldn't tell you what to look for. your car probably won't run the way you expect it to until you get these things fixed though.
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  #11  
Old 07-09-2003, 01:53 AM
Fury Boy Fury Boy is offline
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It's leaking from the accelerator pumps?

take off the lower cover(that seals to the carburator) and sand it with some sand paper to make it flat.

Been fighting the leaky accelerator pump problem for some time.
Come to find out, the pieces were like warped so there was no way they would seal.

Definetly restore the bee, or ship it back to the 48 so I CAN...

Don't pull that Bee apart for your dart. My car had no rear 1/4 panel at all(cut off) and I had to replace the trunk. Not that big of a deal.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2003, 04:21 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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I dunno...the bee is a LOT of work and im only 16 you know...
I can do some light body work and welding but NOTING even close to what this car calls for. Also, something inside tells me "its just a coronet...and coronet is toilet paper!!" I'd hate to think that my car is named after toilet paper, heheh (sorry coronet/bee guys, just joking). I wasnt talking about MIGing the door shut, I meant acutally cutting the body and "gluing" it back together. I seen it done on full frame cars but never on uni. Lets change the topic for a sec then (since I got all my carb problems fixed by now, hehe forgot the plug on the vaccum port at the bottom) and lets just call this a poll. Should I keep my restorable 72 dart custom or fix the junked 70 superbee?
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2003, 04:37 AM
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Default Coronet

[sing this] Extra value is what you get, when you buy Coronet.
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  #14  
Old 07-09-2003, 03:35 PM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Hahaha, I swear if I ever do restore the bee, im poundin' that song all night long at the drags.
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2003, 10:37 PM
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hey, my cuda sat in a swamp for 16 years before i bought it!
i got it for two hundred bucks! and it still had the six pack intake and carbs!!!
wanna talk about a lot of work, there is so much fiberglass in the car now it only weighs 3320lbs with a 440!! hahahaha


ah...i don't tell many people that...lol
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  #16  
Old 07-10-2003, 01:06 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Took another good look at the bee today (its not at my house so had to go on a little trip) and it appears as though the rust is BEYOND repair. The back windshield is about to drop into the trunk just to give you an idea. Anyone want the body? Im takin the drivetrain but anyone who actually wants to restore it talk to me. I think there are about 2 kinds of people who could restore this car. People with a bunch of spare time and cash...and JESUS cuz its gonna take a miracle getting that thing running.
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  #17  
Old 07-10-2003, 02:02 AM
Fury Boy Fury Boy is offline
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The trunk is fairly easy to weld it, the 1/4 panels take some work.

Does it need complete 1/4 panels or just patches?

A '68 Super Bee is my 2nd dream car(behind my current challenger)
So I am a little biased.

I would still do the bee, lots of 4 door darts, only a handful of Super Bees.
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  #18  
Old 07-10-2003, 03:42 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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Hehe I guess easy is a relative term seeing as how my welding equipment consists of a BIC lighter and 2 feet of bent up soldering rod. If I had a mig it would be fun to just TRY, and here I got a piece of polished stainless steel 3 1/2ft by 10ft just waiting to be tacked to something. hehe got the ambition but not the means you might say...
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  #19  
Old 07-10-2003, 03:43 AM
DodgeBoy318 DodgeBoy318 is offline
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BTW, There were 68 bees?
I was under the impression that 69 was the first year for em, since all I been seeing is 69-70. Ill have too look one up
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2003, 10:22 AM
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Fury Boy:
If you really want a Bee I know where's there's 2 restorable hulks sitting up here in the Portland area...probably buy both for a grand..no engines.
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  #21  
Old 07-10-2003, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cuda66273
Fury Boy:
If you really want a Bee I know where's there's 2 restorable hulks sitting up here in the Portland area...probably buy both for a grand..no engines.
You haven't told ME where they are yet. Any word on their condition?
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  #22  
Old 07-11-2003, 12:24 AM
Fury Boy Fury Boy is offline
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Don, thanks, but I don't have the space or time, just to get the hulks!

Our company is building/moving into a new office/warehouse.

I had to cancel my hot august nights trip so I can help out.

Other then that, there is really no room at the moment.
Are they going anywhere fast, or are they sitting and rotting?

I will see you up at the Nats next weekend!

Look for a Black '70 Challenger with a red longitudnal stripe.

Hopefully JR can curve my distributor this weekend and I get get my carb dialed in...

Stock jets right now, 670 Street Avenger, I believe they are 66/68s, but might have like 65s in the front.
JR told me to put the 68s in the front and jet up the rear two sizes to 70s...

I'll try it out, I'm pulling the carb off this weeked while the distributor is out to fix all the leaks on it.

DO you still have any ignition boxes left? I tried emailing you telling you I would take one a few weeks ago, but never got a reply.

Sorry to hijack this sucker!
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2003, 06:50 AM
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They're not going anywhere fast....the owner is in jail right now LOL

I'll see you at the Nat's

Our ignition boxes are in production but things just aren't happening at the speed of light....be patient they'll be here soon.
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  #24  
Old 07-11-2003, 08:07 PM
Fury Boy Fury Boy is offline
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DON!

I talked my dad into them!

He is definetly interested and said that we would make room for them.

How complete are they though?

Motor is no big deal, but interior, trim and suspension is.

Are they rollers?

Please give me a call @ 541-513-7368

Thanks!

Andrew
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Old 07-11-2003, 10:03 PM
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Hey DodgeBoy
Do you have a screw in the throttle linkage to open up the 2nds faster? That will cause a big bog, and become lean on topend. Getting that B rearend in you Dart will not be a real big job, if ou can weld, a arc will do, just dont burn the thing up. That rearend will stick out a few inches more on each side. If you can weld, weld the spider gears up in the rearend, you changing it anyway.
__________________
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2003, 08:36 AM
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So, you are considering cutting a car in half & "glueing" it back together, but do not think you can weld in quarters?

stick with the bee....
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2003, 03:02 PM
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I'll have Brian go and talk to the old guy that lives there and see if he still wants to sell the hulks.

I'll see you at the Mopar Nats and we'll talk about it more.
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2003, 10:36 PM
Fury Boy Fury Boy is offline
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C ya there!

And everybody else!
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