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#1
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Troubleshooting Charging System???
I just purchased a 67 Coronet R/T and am having charging problems. At idle I was measuring 12.1 Volts at the battery and 12.7 at 3000 rpm. I believe it should be closer to 14 volts, right? I had the alternator checked and it put out about 14.5 so I replaced the regulator and installed a larger ground strap between the engine and the firewall. I remeasured and got 11.9 volts at idle and 13.1 at 3000 rpm. I notice that the factory gage is always showing discharge. Is this indicating a possible short in the electrical system? Could the alternator work fine on a bench test but not underload in the car??? Any help is greatly appreciated.
ED |
#2
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Yes, I would go out on a guess and say its the wiring in the car itself, not the equipment. There could be a short at the bulk head or amp meter gage, Chrylser was bad for putting the amp gage in series with the charge wire, this means before it hits the battery it goes through the bulkhead, through the gage then back out the bulkhead, thats lots of connections, to go bad or short. I would upgrade the system to the newer style charging system, get rid of that old mech voltage regulator, 66Cuda, sales on the looks and hooks up just the same as the old ones but is new style electronic. Im not sure how to run a full field test on the old style. Putting full charging load on the battery. You just ground the green wire coming from the voltage regulator, then watch the voltmeter, should see readings above 15 volts. Im not sure if you could do this or not, maybe???
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68 Coronet 69 Super Bee......new 500 cid comin soon! 73 Duster witha missing 440/727 |
#3
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Contact?/
Edlanta, I'm over in Lawrenceville. I have 2 B bodies [64 & 65] that I'm doing elec work on.. Call me and let's see if between the 2 of us, we can get our stuff straightened out!!
I'm usually here all the time... Retired old fart! Chuck Leeper 770-995-1106 |
#4
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Doing away w/ the amp ga??
I am interested in adding a larger alt to my Belvedere. I have read the posts on adding the heavier wire to the starter, the electronic reg, to handle the added amp output of the alt, and the problem[s] w/ the higher amps affecting the amp ga.
The questions are: When doing this, what is the best way to bypass the amp gauge in the dash?? Any other wiring mods that need to be done as related to the power supply to the interior of the car, etc?? What is considered the most practical way to add a voltmeter?? I have also seen alot of suggested later model alts that can be used. Any more popular than the others?? TIA, |
#5
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Honestly
I had the same problem in my 84 pickup, wouldnt charge, it was in the bulk head. I switched to a GM 1 wire altenator, which was similar to the same size as the old one, i had a double row pulley added, just had to had on piece of metal and do some shiming to get it to work took me a few hours, no more External volatge regulators, or other crap tp mess up, just 1 wire to run, I think it was a 100 amp piece. If I have trouble in my car I will do in my street car it will be done the same.
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68 Coronet 69 Super Bee......new 500 cid comin soon! 73 Duster witha missing 440/727 |
#6
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Thanks much guys!
I'm going to check the bulk head tonight and see what I find. If anyone else has any other suggestions I'm all ears! I'll post my findings on the bulk head on Monday. Have a good weekend everybody! ED. |
#7
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Geezer: the best alt to use is from a late model dodge. (I got mine from an '02 one ton ram van.) it is a 130 amp job. got it from a guy on ebay for 75 bucks brand new. I am pretty sure he is still selling them. check for a seller named trucknrvsupply or truck and rv supply
you do not necessarily have to bypass the amp gauge. I simply ran a 4 gauge wire from new alt to pos stud on starter relay. The current will run to the path of least resistance, so you will not be running all of the juice through the crusty factory wiring. no other mods to wiring, except in my case to switch to a later model dual field setup with new reg. check the thread in the tech archives called alternator conversion. detailed parts list and picutres to. I say this is the best modern alt for a mopar because there is no need for special brackets and it keeps your mopar all MOPAR |
#8
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Just for info...
Quote:
A short on the other hand is a path to groung which bypasses a load thus removing the resistance from the circuit and letting current go up. This usually results in some molten metal being created somewhere. Like I said, I'm not picking on anyone. I'm a Journeyman Electrician (IBEW) and just wanted to throw that out there. It might make it easier to explain a problem sometime. |
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