Centerforce adjustment

[qcram2500]

How do I adjust the clutch on my 68 RR with a BRAND NEW Duel force PP/ Clutch disc T/O bearing and resurfaced flywheel.
Do I have my son push the pedal 3/4 of the way to the floor then adjust rod so the clutch has .050" of space between the PP and clutch disk? I also removed the pedal spring from uner the dash.

[dwc43]

Put the pedal spring back under the dash and djust it just like any stock clutch. The pedal should have no more than a 1/2 free play when the pedal is up.

[amxauto-x]

I've been hearing that if the pedel stays down that the overcenter spring needs to come out. Is this true?

[dwc43]

Ture but that's because some one used the wrong pressure plate. Only Borg and Becks should be used and they wont do this. Only weaker pressure plates will do this link the diaphram jobs which are a no no for any type of performance and in my opinion even a daily driver. Ever seen one explode? Took a guys shoe off just grazing his foot. Took out the whole floor board from the shifter up to the flat of the fire wall. Took out the windshield too. What a mess. Soem thing I just dont like to take chances on even in my tow vehicles.

[amxauto-x]

I'm talking about the Centerforce pressureplate . If old plate is replaced with a Centerforce. I've heard that sometimes the pedel will stay on the floor. And so the overcenter spring will need to be taken out. I was told by the owner at the speed shop that all Centerforce pressure plates are diaphram finger types.

[dwc43]

Yes, if it stays down the spring will have to come out. I still dont like the diaphram plates though. Just not enough pressure to them. That's one reason they stay down with the over center spring on them.

[amxauto-x]

That's what I heard many years ago about the diaphram plates. All the stick shift cars I've owned had Borg & Beck 3 finger typs. I have a Centerforce I'll be putting in this weekend. Hope it works ok. Thanks.

[dwc43]

Anytime. Sorry, I did not make that clearer the first go around. I knew what I ment though. lol ...

[amxauto-x]

LOL as long as SOMEBODY knows what you mean I did 'think' I knew what you ment.

[John Kunkel]

I put a 10.95" Centerforce DF in my '68 RR and the pedal didn't stay on the floor but the presence of the overcenter spring gave the pedal a notchy feel. I removed the OC spring and the pedal feels smoother throughout the range of travel. (My personal opinion) I adjusted the free play as the factory recommends, 5/32" at the end of the fork.
I'd like to see proof that the diaphram clutch is more/less likely to explode than a B&B or Long style. ANY of them can explode, that's why they make scatter shields.

[amxauto-x]

Thanks John. I do have a scattershield.

[qcram2500]

BTT

[qcram2500]

Originally posted by dwc43
Put the pedal spring back under the dash and djust it just like any stock clutch. The pedal should have no more than a 1/2 free play when the pedal is up.

This might sound stupid but "I dont know how to adjust a "stock" clutch. Also because the PP is a daiphram type PP I had to remove the spring

[dwc43]

Adjuster nut on the rod that goes through the clutch fork.

[dwc43]

Originally posted by John Kunkel

I'd like to see proof that the diaphram clutch is more/less likely to explode than a B&B or Long style. ANY of them can explode, that's why they make scatter shields. [/B]

True any clutch can explode. But a clutch with less holding power that can be slipped by a 3 grand launch has a greater chance. And diaphrams have less holding power than Borg and Becks by design. That's why the over center spring has to be removed from the pedal assembly. That'swhy I dont like them and prefer to use the stock type Borg and Beck that the factory used for years. Even the Ram had one in it stock. 11incher at that.

[qcram2500]

I finished putting everything back on the car. I adjusted the clutch and to make a long story short. I cant get it into reverse. I am getting full travel with the pedal and adjusted the TO bearing so it rides as close to the fingers without rubbing all the time. But it still will not go into revers. I can when the engine is turned off. It shifts fine.

[dwc43]

You have the shifter out of adjustment that's all. Put it in netrual. There is a hole on the side of the shifter to put a wire or cotter pin through. With all of the shift levers on the tranny pointing straight in the middle adjust the linkage to fit the holes. Now it should shift for you.

[qcram2500]

How would the shifter rod adjustment. keep it from grinding? It shifted fine before the clutch change. I went from a B&B Ram clutch OEM type to this daifram Centerforce Duel friction.
Oh plus when I put it reverse with the engine off, then push in clutch andf start it up. The car wants to move a little the engine almost stalls and the TO bearing is making a hell of a racket. Yes the TO bearing,fork z bar parts are all new.

[dwc43]

It most likely turned on you while you had the tranny out. So you need to readjust the rod.

[Geezer]

The clutch is dragging and causing the car to want to move when started in gear. It can also be the cause of the reverse problem. I'd say insufficient air gap is the problem.

[jimm II]

One possible other cause is the pilot bushing or bearing ...if new could still be driving the trans input shaft....
Just anouther thought.

[John Kunkel]

Originally posted by dwc43

True any clutch can explode. But a clutch with less holding power that can be slipped by a 3 grand launch has a greater chance. And diaphrams have less holding power than Borg and Becks by design. That's why the over center spring has to be removed from the pedal assembly.

Just because the pedal effort is lower doesn't mean the clutch has "less holding power", in fact the centrifugal diaphram clutch has as much as 30% more holding power than the equivalent size B&B.
The B&B takes a sledge hammer approach at holding power by the use of monsterous left leg shaking springs while the centrifugal diaphram uses physics to achieve holding power without the accompanying leg strain.

[beepbeepsrule]

Right, John. The centerforce is designed to add more holding pressure as it is needed by harnessing centrifugal energy and applying it to the pressure plate.

This graduated method is much easier on the drivetrain and the leg muscles.

I am not sure what they are like when you sidestep the clutch at 6000rpm but they sure engage smooth and hold well during most AVL's (aggressive vehicle launch).

[b-1ken]

qcram: The clutch, obviously, is not releasing. If you have insufficient throw, you may have to modify the bellcrank arm (lengthen the arm that connects to the rod going to the throwout fork). Also, if you let the transmission hang on the clutch disc while you where installing the trans, you could have bent the disc. This would cause the disc to drag instead of releasing cleanly. As far as clutches blowing up, I would think it would be more of a factor of what material the pressure plate is made of. Namely nodular iron (good) vs. Gray iron. (scary).