building a 360

[poloplayer340]

im about to build a 360 im looking for any advice i.e. parts accessories etc i still want the motor to look stock but i want to be able to run 12 high 13 low at the command of my foot i have a 71 roadrunner so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

[razorbac]

If your throwing away the 340, I have storage space...............

[poloplayer340]

im not throwing it away all the #'s match on the car so im going to put it on a stand.

[frederick_76]

Good Idea on the 340. Have you looked in to stroker kits for the 360??

[poloplayer340]

i havnt even started the motor im just looking for some advice on how to build it im a young kid who is learning to build motors so i want to build a 360 that hauls so advice is needed but i will look into stroker kits thanks

[Billydelrio]

The first bit of advice I can think of is about the engine balancing issue.
The 360 is external balanced (most 4" strokers are done external also), so consider what needs to be done about the torque converter or fly wheel issue.

Billy

[Madman Stephan]

Also, do you know what types of heads are on it? The first thing you should so is get yourself some X or J heads with large valves. Add an aluminium intake, and some headers. Try to find a better cam and a better carb. Most of these items can be bought used and save yourself some bucks.

What's your budget by the way?

[rumblefish360]

Try a look at http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/muscle/ for some idea's on stroker kits. Theres others on the web.
A big inch small block is a good way to create tons of torque. Good for moving big cars.

I would do a set of ported Edel. heads over vintage cast iron from ethier http://hughesengines.com/www/hughesengines/ or indy. I think http://www.indyheads.com/ gets you there.
I like the Indy head with the moved pushrods. This would require offset pushrods.

800 cfm carb ontop of a single plane and a solid cam. Look at hughes for the cam. Headers @ 1 3/4 min into a 3 inch exhaust. 4.10 gears & 27 inch tires would do it.

[PRO]

Unfortunately you could get a 340 in a RR in 71,believe it or not it was a $45 upgrade but whats weird is the standard engine was a 383,and the 340 was an upgrade,doesnt make sense to me but anyhow Id never be happy with a small block in such a heavy car for 2 reasons 1. it takes torque to move weight 2.You'll have to build a stressed out sb to go 12's vs a mild BB which will barely be near its stress limits and will most likely outlast it too,but if you dont want to change the trans too and want to keep it looking stock then I'd build a 4" stroker sb,depending on bore size youll be 408-416 cubes,youll need the mp crank my cost at mp was $316,buy some manley or bme I beam or H beam rods,keith black makes some affordable pistons in the 10:1 range and bolt on some aluminum Edelbrock heads,for a cam youll want something in the 560-570 lift range to take advantage of the heads and keep the duration around 240-245 @ 50,dont forget to add a higher than stock stall converter,something around 2800-3200,I d run 4:10s or at least 3:91s,depending on the altitude were your at this combo will run 12s pretty easy and once dialed who knows you could go 11.99 or so.......PRO.....

[6 packin]

Forget the stroker ideas, you dont even need to spend much coinage at all to got low 13's high 12's. I dont understand why you would go this route when you can use whats available, but hey go ahead by all means. Just pick up a set of J heads or have factory 360 heads cut for 2.02 intakes. Get a good converter(maybe in the 3000 range), not some junk. Dont overcam it (keep it in the 230's Dur @ .050 or lower) get a set of gears 3.55 or 3.91's can be made to be streetable with the right set of tires. I reccomend the Performer RPM intake and a Holley carb in the 600-650 range (vacum 2nd's) Headers from TTI, you will be glad..... maybe some KB # 107 pistons or equivelent CPM height. Keep it near 9.5:1 or so, run as much intial timing as possiable and around 38 deg total. It wont be hard to build a 400 horse 360 with factory block heads, with the right prep work and parts matching.