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#1
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Is a relay needed with a Holley blue?
Just went to their website and said the motor draws 3 amps recommends 7.5A fuse. Do you need a relay. People with experience or electrical background please reply.
Thanks, drag-n |
#2
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No just run 14ga or better wire and if you run an aux switch make sure it will handle to load
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#3
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I agree with 23T, That size wire and a properly rated switch will be fine. The reason for the fuse being 7.5 and the current draw only 3 is the pump motor will draw more than 3 amps on start up. The 7.5 will cover the load as the pump motor snaps on.
Also for safety purposes, mount your fuse as close the the 12 volt source as possible that you use to supply the pump. Any part of the wiring that short circuits before the fuse will burn up. BB |
#4
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23t is right on the money. don't forget to use a regulator with that blue pump.
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#5
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I would honestly run a relay, so the switch isn't dealing with any of the current load. I would also run a minimum of 10g wire.
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#6
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Quote:
Just my thoughts and experiences |
#7
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I'm using a relay on my carter super pump. The thought of using a switch was never considered.
Certainly there are many switches that can handle the load. I have used switches on such things in the past. I would agree with ed and use a relay. Why? Because the fuel pump runs all the time. May be a little much for a switch. Relays are better made for continuous duty, than switches. Not flaming anyone, who says use a switch, I'm just saying I wouldn't. |
#8
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are the regular automotive relays from radio shack fine?
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=275%2D226 |
#9
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That relay should handle the job with no problems.
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#10
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A relay is a good idea,but we've never used one with the Holley pumps.I don't use one for the fact if there is a problem at the track,that is one less thing to go wrong and troubleshoot,especially during eliminations.
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#11
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Quote:
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#12
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Ignition key
I bet he has it wired into a key switched source
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#13
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i recommend a relay on any electric pump. i bet ya if you check free flow with a relay and without there will be a difference on free flow per minute
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#14
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a BINGO for C318cuin
I turn on the key and the pump runs. Perhaps it's just a different mind set. I work a on a lot of fi cars. They all have relays for the fuel pumps. Then again, maybe I just don't want to be confused by another switch on the dash. |
#15
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Relay..wouldn't consider installing any E pump without a relay
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#16
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If you want to wire the fuel pump to a key switch, I'd use a relay to avoid loading up the key switch with too much current. I believe the "ice cube" relays that Radio Shack sells are Potter & Brumfield (Siemens) which is pretty good. You have to be careful with electrical components from Radio Shack. Some of it (like their toggle switches and push buttons) is pure crap.
I would not hesitate to use a high quality name brand rated toggle switch for a fuel pump without a relay. Brands like Eaton (Cutler Hammer), C&K, Honeywell, SPC, etc. all make robust industrial rated bat handle toggle switches which should work fine. In fact, I think the main reason people have been using relays for fuel pumps is because the auto parts, hardware, and Radio Shack stores just do not carry high quality robust switches that will carry a moderate amount of current. If you really want to get carried away, buy a toggle switch that is mil-spec rated: http://www.newark.com/product-detail...D121/4905.html Newark Electronics is a real good source for about any electrical component you can imagine. I think there catalog is about 2000 pages long. |
#17
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Quote:
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#18
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$16.50 for a switch or $6.00 for a relay...
Another thing to take into consideration is that with a relay, I can safely run a 14g or smaller wire from a switched power source to the relay and a 10g feed from the relay to the fuel pump, instead of a 10g lead from the switch all the way out to the pump. if you are using the recommend (by Holley) 7.5A fuse, you will need a minimum of a 12g lead (10g recommended) to the pump, if you want the fuse to burn out before the wire melts. |
#19
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Quote:
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