Tranny questions and other ideas!

[6 packin]

Just got a 87 dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 with a 318 in it and 727 auto tranny. I have a 440 engine and tranny also, so what is involved to switching the transfer case/tail shaft over and using the standard production 727 big block tranny? Im not tranny expect, but feel if I could do it without trans disassmebly i would. Also I was thinking that the motor mounts will work for the 440 engine, I just need the exhaust manifolds, that dump in the middle or corrrect headers. The drive shaft should be the same also.

[dirty dan]

Originally posted by 6 packin
Just got a 87 dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 with a 318 in it and 727 auto tranny. I have a 440 engine and tranny also, so what is involved to switching the transfer case/tail shaft over and using the standard production 727 big block tranny? Im not tranny expect, but feel if I could do it without trans disassmebly i would. Also I was thinking that the motor mounts will work for the 440 engine, I just need the exhaust manifolds, that dump in the middle or corrrect headers. The drive shaft should be the same also.

Hey 6 packin
I hate to rain on your peraide.
But it will be nessecery to disassemble the trans to change
the out put shaft of the 727.
This would be required to attach the transfer case.
As for the mounts in the truck your all right.
But bolt on engine mounts will of course have to be big block mounts.
Also required would be a big block oil pan and pickup tube.
This would locate the oil sump in the rear of the engine rather then the center ,where it would be a real pain.
It would take some work .
But when comepleated .
What a stump puller you would have.

[6 packin]

Thanks Dan
I already have the pan, and a set of exhaust manifolds, i however was told that the small block mounts would work picking up just 2 blots, I would like to talk to somone how has done this swap. I started to upgrade the 318 with a 4 barrel intake and carb, but I will only be disapointed in the output and gas comsumption. The truck does have 3.23 gears. The 440 will have stock cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds, I may upgrade to headers though.

[440Ramcharger]

I pulled my 318 out 7 years back and put in a 440/727 in the RC (Ramcharger) . Not sure if the truck frame is exactly the same as the RC. I did not have any issues with my tranny/xfer case, (did I get lucky?) everything bolted right up.
Check on engine mounts, had to lengthen the distributor wiring (up front on the BB) Mine has the following set up:
'67 440 +.030" 850 TQ, Eddy Performer, double roller TC, TRW forged flat tops standard rods, forged crank .010"/.010" HE 1423 cam (best thing I ever went to) standard 452 heads with 3 angle grind on new chrome valves, stock rocker setup HD rockers from MP, windage tray, Hooker headers 2.25" dual exhaust with H pipe behind xfer case (this made a difference, had straight duals before) Burns clean through emissions,
HC 0.84 with 2.40 max allowable
CO 10.51 with 20.00 max allowable
NOX 2.72 with 3.50 max allowable

I also have 3.23 gears with 31" tall tires and a suspension lift of roughly 4"
hughes Towmaster converter
10 mpg on the freeway, no complaints.
One of the guys on the board ran Desktop Dyno and came up with max torque at 2000rpm 499ft/lbs and max 364HP at 4500rpm
Very, Very good vacuum. Sucks down to 24" when letting off of the gas from 75 mph!
Pulls the hunting trailer with quad and gear like a raging rouge elephant, had the other fellow that owned a 460 Ford going DAMN!!

I have an extra mint condition rear sump 440 oil pan if needed. The dealer thinks these things are made of gold and charges accordingly.
Learn from my (expensive) mistakes:
Cam choice (biggie)
Do not use some rebuilt torque converter! (very biggie)
Hooker Headers, had Hedman brand before head flange leaks were a monthly occurance. (monthly PIA)
have had zero issues with driveline components. All stock u jounts and associated stuff is fine. Did replace the front and back yolks at nearly 200k. Cost $60 each.
Engine runs cool here in AZ with the 26" 3 core radiator and shroud. Running a new fan clutch.
good luck with your project, the 440 has so much torque you can build it very mild and still pull the house down at just off of idle.

[6 packin]

Thanks Ramcharger!
Thats what I wanted to hear. I will be using stock 440 truck exhaust manifolds due to leak issues associated with headers, i know it really chokes down the big mill engines, But Im looking for the stock look with a cast iron intake, and small Hydrolic camshaft. I actually have a front sump oil pan that I flopped and redrilled the holes. It should still pull the trick just fine as is.

[creative1]

having put a 440 in a 1984 D250, i know some of what you will have to do. whether you use the big block motor mounts (the rubber blocks between 2 steel plates) or not is up to you. i chose to use them because they have interlocking 'fingers' that prevent the engine lifting excessively should the rubber fail... and it does sometimes. also, the holes in the frameheader thing. that the motor mounts bolt to are too close together (right side to left side) for a big block using stock motor mounts. you will either have to buy motor mounts expressly made for this conversion or drill new holes in the motor mount pads on the frame. 1978 and earlier trucks had this 2nd set of holes punched from the factory, but as the big block was dropped after 1978, dodge didnt drill them any more. i dont remember the size of the holes offhand, i believe a 9/16 drill will do the trick, though. you will either have to get exhaust manifolds from a 1970 to 1978 pickup that came original with a big block engine, or buy headers for this change. all the big block manifolds (some of them were center dump) i found rested the outlet RIGHT ON THE FRAME!!! i got 1 3/4" tube headers from dynomax for mine for around $150... cheap, but it worked. there are better choices available out there now. a mopar salvage yard wanted $75 per manifold, and i would have had to drive 100 miles (one way) and take a day off work to get them... so i did the header thing. guess i could have paid freight and had them shipped, but in the end, manifolds would have cost more than the headers. i just wish that headers for this purpose passed over the frame and down behind the front wheels, as there is plenty of room and it would eliminate burned plug wires and starter heat problems, among other things... cant find them though.

[6 packin]

I was told there was a kit available from some where to get the mounts, pickup, oilpan and all for around $150 or so. I still gotta make my pickup, and motors mounts. I would simply get the tranny bolted up and level the engine make me some mounts using angle iron, using the rubber insolators. Think that company was out of Alabama???

[creative1]

i saw their ad... i think it was on this website somewhere. i cant remember for sure. i KNOW it was on a mopar website, though. and they sell everything in a kit, but i thought it was more like $190. they even have headers.i also think they have all kinds of urathane bushings and trans mounts, too. wish i could remember

[440Ramcharger]

http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Homepage.html