Spring relocaton

[WFish]

When moving rear leaf springs inboard, do you have to do anything with the upper shock mount? I'm considering moving my springs inboard 3 inches with one of those kits to allow more room for tires without jacking the car up more in the rear. Also, could anyone tell me how big of a tire I could get under a '70 Cuda with this done?

[Ausydad]

If I remember correctly, the upper mounts do not change. The height of the shock will change and usually the Koni adjustables are the ones recommended. For size, I'm not sure as I'm all "A" bodies. Job's not good enough for an "E"......

[george a nilsen]

measure from spring to inner lip of fender ,subtract about a inch,and check back spacing of wheel and your good to go.i went 7 1/2 back space on weld wheels and stuffed 31/16.50/15 under my 68RR.i moved mine in also. is it worth it, ooooyea!!!!!!!

good luck
george 68R

[dwc43]

Originally posted by Walter Fisher
When moving rear leaf springs inboard, do you have to do anything with the upper shock mount? I'm considering moving my springs inboard 3 inches with one of those kits to allow more room for tires without jacking the car up more in the rear. Also, could anyone tell me how big of a tire I could get under a '70 Cuda with this done?

Yes the shocks will need to move so the same mechanical advantage will work with your shocks. This relocation is not recommended and is very old school. You have to cut the frame in order to install the kit. The car will tweak or bend when this happens. It might be possible to keep it to a minumum if done on a frame machine by a pro at a body shop. It's just not good practice. With todays tires and ladder bars and four links and adjustable shocks and SS springs the traction you need can be achieved with out this mod that destroys the sub frame of your car. I've seen some bad results come from using these kits.

[george a nilsen]

yes i agree but it can be done right.its also the price tag on what someone wants to spend,the condition of car,and yes we are all old school mopar freaks!!!!!!
george 68RR

[dwc43]

Soory, did not intend to offend with the old school comment. Just wanted to say there are better, cheaper and easier ways that dont compromise the cars sub frame so much.

[WFish]

I don't think its worth the trouble, especialy since it would only be for looks. I like the look of huge tires under the rear, but not at the expense of screwing up my car. Thanks guys!

[george a nilsen]

walt you wont screw up car if you take you time and lay out and measure location of rear. if you suport frame in front of spring perch ,then level car,noting measurement to floor, then suporting as close to rear bumper ,noting measure to floor, then cutting subframe ,checking and rechecking measuring to floor before welding there should be no problem at all. its all a matter of taking you time and laying it out and doing it right.then you minnie tub it by seporating inner and outer wheel house tubs and adding a piece , welding, fitting ,cutting alot of time but the end result when you put those big meats on its all worth it. PROSTREET RULES!!!!!!!!!!!

george 68

[Geezer]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by george a nilsen
[B]walt you wont screw up car if you take you time and lay out and measure location of rear. if you suport frame in front of spring perch ,then level car,noting measurement to floor, then suporting as close to rear bumper ,noting measure to floor, then cutting subframe ,checking and rechecking measuring to floor before welding there should be no problem at all. its all a matter of taking you time and laying it out and doing it right.then you minnie tub it by seporating inner and outer wheel house tubs and adding a piece , welding, fitting ,cutting alot of time but the end result when you put those big meats on its all worth it. PROSTREET RULES!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree w/ George on this one.. Having done ALOT of street and drag race chassis work of my own, his comments are accurate and timely.
LEVEL and SQUARE the car before doing any cutting or measuring. [The door sill pinch weld is a good ft to rear levelling surface.] I also cross measure the wheelbase to be sure the chassis has not been knocked out of whack.
I do this, using the actual suspension points for support. This way the chassis sees the loads like it would sitting on the tires.

I then tack weld support bars in ft of the springs and at the rear bumper/chassis attach points. I do this to eliminate the possibility of the clamps slipping.. [Murphy is alive and well]
Additional support could/should be the installation of frame ties. If required, I do this B4 the spring relo.

Going so far as a rollbar?? I put them in before cutting the frame too. I use the SQUARE and LEVEL procedure for that process also.

One last thot.. If you are using SS springs, some are a different length than stock, requiring mounting holes to be drilled in different locations...

My $.02 worth..
Back to working on my HEMI!!

[dwc43]

If it already has a full front to rear roll cage it can be done, but on a stock car the chassis sub frame will flex when cut. If there is no way to support it or stop it such as using a frame machine it cant be done right. All of our race cars are built on surface plates so they are straight and exact everytime a new one is built. That's the only true way to do a car right.