|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
I Need Help!!
I have a "71 Dart Swinger with a 225. I can get the engine to start and idle fine, but it kills when I put the car in gear. I can keep it running in gear as long as I am constantly on the throttle. I've put in new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and rebuilt the carb, but I just can't figure it out. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I'll guess that it's not a simple idle screw adjustment needed. What symptons did it have when it started this? Really need more to go on here. Did you make any mods or replace anything before this started? Really need more clues to help you out here.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
When I bought the car it had a cracked exhaust manifold. I put in a new manifold , then did the cap, rotor, etc. It still didn't start. I had to put in a new coil and fuel pump and replace some fuel line. The I could get it to start and I am stuck at this point now.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I got a good place to start now. Pull the fuel filter off and hold the pump side over your hand and blow through the carb side of it. See if it's stopped up with dirt. Is it heavy feeling? I had to pull the tank off a '71 Charger two times to clean it so it would not plug the filter and carb up. Check that first and get back to me.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Check the fuel delivery first. Check the filter like dwc43 says and then put the fuel line end into a clean empty jar and have someone spin the motor over, pull coil wire off first.
If fuel delivery looks OK, put coil wire on, crank and warm car, then pull valve cover and adjust valves, .010int, .020 exh. The valve lash is often forgot on a '60-'80 slant six with the solid lifter cam. Set timing to 10* BTDC with vaccum advance line off. If it pings, back timing 2* at a time till it quits of use a higher octane gas. Let us know how you make out. Cecil |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I have a similar problem my slant 6 starts fine runs good at high power but will not idle. I have new plugs,rotor,the Holly carb is not rebuilt.I cleaned it with carb cleaner.Someone told me I might have a compression problem.I was advised to put in some SLICK 50.
Phil |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure you have the crappy Holley 1bbl tightened all the way down and don't have a leak at the base gasket....
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Re: I Need Help!!
Quote:
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
You didn't happen to bolt the manifolds tight together before you put them on the motor did you? That will cause a vacuum leak for sure that will do exactly what you are describing.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
So I should loosen the bolts holding the manifolds together, then tight the bolt to the engine, then retighten the manifolds together.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
dhughes is right. Do not go over 12-15 ft. lbs. on the manifold to head studs. Too tight and the exhaust manifold will crack. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
If you have checked everything and the car will not idle, but will run if you get on the gas, I would vote for vacuum leak, that is what it was with my car.
When you get on the gas, is there a "flat spot" or does if "bog" before it picks up? that is also symptomatic of a vacuum leak. That is what I am saying, since it seems like you have checked everything else. Make sure the fittings for the PCV are okay and that all the vacuum connections on the carburetor are connected or plugged if they dont hook up to everything. Caesar |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|