1970 + Votage Regulators

[3psi]

I have a 72 Dodge 413 Motorhome, which is converted to Electronic ignition.

I am concerned about the voltage regulator, and am willing to invest in a performance regulator. However I am not sure wich one would be right.

My thought is that a constant voltage type would be needed for better performance with electronic ignition, But am concerned of battery problems.

Which part would be best:

P4529794 or P3690731, or is there one I'm not aware of?

Thanks!

[usdart]

Stay away from the constant voltage "high Performance' regulator..
Mine failed after 3 weeks and took out my dash by too high a voltage. Lights got real bright,gauges pegged etc.

I put the cheap one from Auto Zone on and have had no problems for two years. It has a 'life-time' warranty too!

Please don't use it,and tell everyone you know not to.

[dkn1997]

what type of reg do you have now? I am not sure whether you have the single or dual field reg, not familiar with motor homes.

"they" say that you should not run electronic ignition with the single field (old style) reg. "they" also say that you should not run the constant output model the street.

whatever you choose to believe, I do not think a "high performance" regulator is necessary you could switch to the dual field regulator. they are available at napa (along with the special connector they require) just have to run an extra field wire to reg from alt or just ground the second terminal on alt. you could also go to www.4secondsflat.com and check out there reg. it looks just like the old style reg, but has nicey nice new guts and I think it is safe with electronic ignition, cheap too..... also check out mad electric. (do a search, they have a website) lots of great info there on mopar charging systems with diagrams.

and if that's still not enough to drive you crazy, try autohobbydigest (again search) I think they have a section on mopar charging systems.

[dave571]

You should already have the newer style regulator, as they came into use in 1970.

What's it look like? flat box with a triangle shaped connector?

Or a square with a spade on each end?

[ehostler]

Your exisiting regulator is fine. There is no need for a high performance unit.

Heck I was using the older style with my electronic conversion kit and had no problems from the regulator. The alt on the other hand had a hard time keeping idleing in gear at a stop light.

[beepbeepsrule]

I agree with the stock one being just fine (assuming you do have the electronic voltage regulator system and alternator with 2 field wires). The battery itself is a big part of the voltage regulation, and running the constant output voltage regulator is very much overkill in most situations. I think they are hard on the battery also in my opinion.

The '70 and up stock system with the electronic voltage regulator and "3 wire" (2 field wires and the heavy output wire) alternator work great as is. If that is what you have then good news, you are done!

[dewme5]

I converted to a chevy 1 wire alt. from auto zone, and total investment was $26. That's close to the price of a decent regulator. For me, the choice was easy... and more reliable.

[ehostler]

In this situation, how is converting to a GM alt easier than leaving alone what is already there, as what is already there will work with no problems???

More reliable - NOT. Reliablity is no better.

[dirty dan]

Originally posted by dewme5
I converted to a chevy 1 wire alt. from auto zone, and total investment was $26. That's close to the price of a decent regulator. For me, the choice was easy... and more reliable.

dewme5
Have you any pictures or info of or about mounting brakets and such?
Inquireing minds want to know more and more and more...

[djswwg]

I put the blue (hi-perf) volt reg in my car because it was supposed to fix the discharge situation at idle speed. I have an oversized alt. pulley and an undersized crank pulley. It made absolutely NO difference1 It works exactly like the old one did.................djs

[ehostler]

A voltage regulater cannot overcome faults with the alternator. The alt just cannot produce that kind of current at idle. That's why the alt needs a smaller pulley.

[dewme5]

The mounting was almost a direct bolt up, except for the adjusting arm, which I welded on about a 3" extension at 90 degrees. That let it get further down, and around to the far side for the adjuster.. Not the best bracket, but it worked in a pinch.. until the next engine swap.

[dirty dan]

Originally posted by dewme5
The mounting was almost a direct bolt up, except for the adjusting arm, which I welded on about a 3" extension at 90 degrees. That let it get further down, and around to the far side for the adjuster.. Not the best bracket, but it worked in a pinch.. until the next engine swap.

Hey dewme
Thanks for the reply.
Is there any way you could post a picture of this set up?
Or perhaps email me one .
Eigther way would be a big help. thanks

[3psi]

Wow...such a vast amount of knowledge. This is site is the place to find knowledge. You guys who responded to my original post...thank you very much.

I did buy a constant voltage regulator, but after reading so many reasons not to, I have not put it in.

I am still concerned about the voltage, I took it to guy to tune the carb, and curve the distributor. And he tells me the voltage is low, 13.1 volts. Wants me to convert it to a GM alternator, as some have suggested. Says it should be getting 14.1 volts. He is a GM Guy, so I wonder if he knows for sure.

I believe a true mopar rig, should stay mopar, and question the need or benefit of the conversion.

My question to you guys, the Mopar wizards:

What is a good voltage in a mopar system?

To refresh, I have a 1972 Dodge 413 Motorhome, converted to Electronic Ignition. It has a mild perf cam (torque), and a 95 amp alternator with dual pulleys.


Thanks again for letting me tap your wisdom.

[dkn1997]

I have 14.2 at idle, with all the accessories on.

13.1 does not sound that bad to me, though