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#1
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why can't I squeal'em
I've got a '67 Fury II with a rebuilt poly
318, new holley 600 and weiand intake flowmaster duals, electronic ignition and 3:55 non-posi rear. Why won't the car even "chirp a little" off the line? extra info- the timing setting has to be double (ahead) of what the specs are suppose to be for the car to run good . thanks for any info. |
#2
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with a one-legger 3.5 gear you should be able to SMOKE 'em !!
try staging in some ATF !! |
#3
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If you rebuilt it stock it should. If it is 'hotter' than stock, then if you put in the stock torque converter, then the converter won't let it get into the torque range to spin the tires. It'll feel doggy.
What cam is in it? And what is the compression ratio? Which weiand intake did you use? Single or dual plain? |
#4
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The Weiand used is a single plane. I don't think they offer a dual plane anymore. Reguardless.
In addition to aouto AMX's questions; Is the ignition stock? What size tire are you running? |
#5
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if you wana smokem you gona hafta ditch the 3.55s and slap a low 4.11 or lower gear,say 5.13 or 5.38 waynebo
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#6
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i have 4.10's in my 8 1/4 with suregrip as well... my rear tires are 295/50 R15 RoadHuggers. even though they're wide, i thought i would be able to smoke mine after a rebuild and change of torque converter (way back when i first got the tires/wheels when the motor was tired) because of the lower profile...
even after the rebuild (very strong feeling in seat of pants/back of seat), it won't bark em. the only way i can get these things to break loose (on dry pavement) is with my water sprayers in my fender wells...using 50-50 water/bleach. honda's ridicule and poke fun at me because i can't spin em, but i'm the one who's laughing when they're still at the line smokin their tires off... what kind of converter/tire size do you have?? as long as it launches hard, i wouldn't worry about not being able to spin them, but if your converter is too tight then i don't think it'll happen... good luck! |
#7
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I wouldnt worry to much about making your shoes dance most people are the opposite wanting to leave the line with absolute traction. But In saying that it's fun todo A you riding the brake and geting your revs at the right mark....It will probably just take some time to find out when the bad boy wants to start singing!
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#8
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There are two types of people here..........
The ones that want to shoot for that magical .99 60 foot time and the others that want to smoke 'em !! Well - put me on the side of that .99 60 footer......BUT I will never see that EVER. MAYBE........1-teen or something like that !! .....BUTTTT smokey burnouts are KOOL tooo ! |
#9
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yes, smokey burnouts are awesome, and i achieve those using 50-50 water/bleach, or just bleach on the tires . and still, my rr launches like no other. i'm especially surprised because i have 4" shackles and air shocks with modified mounting plate.... but dem road huggers do just that....hug the road!! unless it's raining or snowy....
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#10
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my suggestion:
Line lock I had the same problem, turns out that one magical invention makes even the heaviest car brake loose. Julian |
#11
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Agree...
I set up a Line Lock in my Scamp and can go on dry pavement with 265/60/15 and a stock A/C 225 and smoke like my buddy with a built 327 Impala.. If you use the line lock, you'll have burnouts when you want, but also get traction when you need to. Best of both worlds... |
#12
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Well a single plane will kill it!---Too much car--Not enough motor. A dual plane will really help. If you cant get a dual plane a 4-hole spacer might help a little.I had a similiar problem with a 71 Charger/360/3:23 gears.---A set of 3:91,s made a real fun car out of it!
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#13
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Back off the rear brakes you've probably got the fronts loose and rears tight so when you try and power brake the car your holding the rear tires with the stop peddle.
Dual Plane Manifold Get the junk outta the trunk...LOL |
#14
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Re: why can't I squeal'em
Quote:
I have driven a few poly 318's in b-bodies and trucks and had no problem breaking the tires loose. Those things make a ton of torque, so I think something's wrong here, even if it is in a heavy C-body. |
#15
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Yes the damper may have slipped, timing was my first thought. It should roast them. Time it by ear, pulll the timing around when at operating temp untill it kicks back or is lazy to start then retard (pull it back) 1/4 inch. Is you vacum advance hooked up and working properly?
__________________
68 Coronet 69 Super Bee......new 500 cid comin soon! 73 Duster witha missing 440/727 |
#16
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while y'all are talking about timing, i've a question.
ok, small block distributor rotors spin clockwise. i understand the termonology of advancing timing meaning the plug fires BTC. so, seeing how the rotor goes clockwise, turning the cap counter-clockwise would be advancing because the rotor would get to the point on the cap sooner? or am i bassackwards? thx BTW: i can't see my timing mark on my balancer either. i time mine by ear and how 'crisp' it feels when i wack the go-pedal backwards a few times |
#17
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My brother timed his by ear back in July or earlier. It pinged bad. He said that if he moved the dist. back, then it had no power. He didn't own a light. So I timed it for him. The mark was under the chain cover and I couldn't see it until I 'retarded' it some. Then the marks lined up and it ran fine, with just a hint at pinging at 10 degrees BTDC. He didn't realize that it doesn't take much movement of the dist to change the timing a lot. I gave him my old light. Lights are better.
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#18
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I'm a novice compared to you guys when
it comes to the mechanics - I haven't checked the compression ratio and assumed the place that rebuilt the motor used a stock cam. I'll have to check the model no on the tranny but my manual says the car should have the A-727-A so the converter should be 11 3/4 in dia. Tires are 225 70 14's new T/A's. I'll play with the timing. Just joined this site, very impressed with the responses to my first question, thanks all! |
#19
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72 RR, I've got 295/50 15 T/As in my 340 Dart with a stick and I can light them puppies up no problem, hell I did it dumping the C in second at 20 mph and backed off to keep her goin straight....3.55s, Airgap, 750 AFB(sorry Don, next ticket item will be a Demon)......I dont need any bleach solution or water squirters getting my honey horny.....Oh yeah, this is with a 657 rear.....touch on wood!
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#20
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I was unloading the Cuda the other day and I thought I'd test the asphalt in front of the house.....nieghbors were curious......layed down about 100 feet of MT 11.2 x 29.5 slick at 7.25#'s pressure in 1st and second with no bleach or water.......and that was at about 1/2 throttle, no traction at all....I called the City about coating my street with VHT but they told me due to the Budget restraints and current economic condition of the State or Oregon they did't have any VHT in their budget for this year.......Dam schools get all the money....
...and that's with a 318..... |
#21
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Sounds great - wish my neighbours where that understanding... and that my car would do that! Is a badly timed engine likely to runcruise okay, and then simply lack performance and not rev up to what it should when pushed - and feel flat on its way there?
Plus, I've heard everywhere that a SB Mopar is best at around 35 total - how do I set my timing to get that?? Ignition baffles me at the best of times but I'm totally lost on timing. I have borrowed a light, so what do I do?? Cheers, James |
#22
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Yes, when your cruising you get the 12-18 degrees of vacuum timing which may bring the timing up to where it needs to be, as soon as you tip the loud peddle the vacuum drops and the timing falls way back.
If you want it set up right yu can send it to us and we'll phase it, set the initial and mechanical stops and dial in the vacuum module to get the correct timing events for your specific application. Go to: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_and...rder_form.html More info at: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html What you will get: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Testimonials.html |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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72RR,
You have alot of interesting things on your car. |
#25
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YOu guys will need a dial back timing light to be able to do it right.
Do a forum search on timing, you will find plenty of posts with the instructions. A great ball park figure for all Mopars is 35 degrees, at 2500rpm with the vacuum advance plugged. There's a lot more to it than just that, but it will get the tires chirping. I suspect the real problem is the tranny, as was mentioned, not letting the power out when wanted. Any car here can do it with a manual, but the auto's need to be right for that to happen. My minvan will lay down a patch if I do it right (hold the brakes hard, first gear, traction control off, rev till 2000rpm and let go the brakes.) On second thought, I have not been able to get my Subaru to do that, even with a manual...somethin about 4 wheel drive... |
#26
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23T....nice of you to contribute to the State like that.....your lucky you didn't win one of those State Vacations....LOL
Ya gotta learn to back up quicker....and hide.... |
#27
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Quote:
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#28
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Hey 72
What other pics do you have 4 the sprayer; bottle and how do you activate it
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#29
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Quote:
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#30
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Re: Hey 72
Quote:
i have a blue jug that holds the water. it's a converted cooler similar to what kids take to baseball games. i'm using 3/8"O.D clear nylon hose, a small cheapie electric fuel pump that is compatible with all 'fuels', and jets (dad got em, dunno where) mounted on brackets intended for wood work... heres a pic of the fuel jug, and the pump is also under the 2x4 supporting the box of 12" speakers (which is now changed). only thing not pictured here is the hose going from jug to pump...easy to imagine... |
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