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  #1  
Old 09-08-2003, 08:43 PM
Fastem Fastem is offline
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Biggrin Gonna build a 360 up - help me plz :)

Ok well I currently have a 89 turbo plymouth voyager, its my daily driver. But I want a nice old v8 to work around with. When I am done with the car it will be my new daily driver/drag car and the voyager will be my drag/camping vehicle. Anyway I decided I would like to build up a 360 first then buy a vehicle once its done to put it into.

My goals are to have a daily driven low 13's car with potential for 12's later down the road easily. I dont need a specific HP figure just enough to push my car to 13's. I was thinking of getting a dart, or something about that light and cheap. So I would estimate 3200 lbs without driver will be the weight(?).

Anyway problem is I dont really know what it will take on a 360 to get there and what the best route to take would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Anything like what year blocks would be best to what heads, carb , intake , any specific reccomendations or just anything. I would like the gearing on the car to be easily daily driveable too so take that in mind.

Just anything that I will need if you could let me know it would be a great help to get started. Oh and if you know any good books to pick up I will get those too.

Thanks alot in advance!

I forgot to mention $$ is a factor here I would like to do this as cheaply as possible but I dont want it to break all the time either
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  #2  
Old 09-09-2003, 04:00 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Here is how I did mine
360, rebuilt with cast pistons, stock rods with ARP bolts, factory balance, CR unknown but pretty low.
MP 292/.509" cam
dual plane performer intake
Holley 3310 750 cfm vacuum carb with yellow spring and stock jetting
Factory '308' heads untouched ports or valve job, out of the box
MP electronic ignition
1 5/8" "cheapo" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust with four turbo mufflers.
10" converter + 727
3.23 gears.

This somewhat mismatched combination of parts was in a '73 4 D A-body that weighed around 3500 lbs with the driver or more, and run 13.26/107 mph with regular 205/14 street tires. So it shouldn't be tough to reach your goal. The key factors are well working heads and a matced overall combo. Books to read are MP's small block book P4876826 and the revised version of the "how to hot rod a small block mopar".
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  #3  
Old 09-09-2003, 07:57 AM
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Mopardad Mopardad is offline
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Buy a 10:1 MP crate motor shortblock. Make sure you check the bottom end over really well. Add a set of 2.02 valve heads. Most inexpensive way to build a mild 360 that I know of.
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  #4  
Old 09-09-2003, 11:08 AM
345Dart 345Dart is offline
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Default Fastem

How about a nice (basically all new parts) 9.75:1CR 340 engine (pan - carb) with new pistons, rings, bearings, hv oil pump, roller timing set, Moroso street pan, Isky cam and lifters, 202/160 P&P heads, RPM Performer intake, all assembled and ready to drop in - never run, just finished assembly.
If interested give me a call @ 403-255-3160 evngs or email @ ritwaylg@hotmail .com to discuss.
Better than any 360 short block, me thinks.
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2003, 08:52 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Mopardad has a point there. If a create shortblock is out, a rebuild can be done even cheaper. Use all stock parts except pistons and balance the assmbly. A cheap piston is a set of KB hyperU's. You can get them in a zero deck height for a comp of 9.8-1 with open chambered X or J heads. Comp. jumps with closed chambered heads and I would go aluminum then. But thats later.
Add cam of choice. A Hyd style is cheapest. A solid will go farther. Make it a split pattern with as much lift as you can cram in.
Areohead advertise's heads fo about $500.
Intake of choice is about in the $200 range for an RPM, M-1 single plane, Victor inatke, Holley intake. There all priced about even.
A set of 1 5/8 cheapo headers will go far until you can afford the more expensive units. 2 1/2 pipe to move the gas out min.
Like said before, a 3310 Holley is about as cheap as it gets for a carb.
A self installed tranny shift kit, deep pan and cooler. all easy.
A set of 4.10 gears and S/S springs w/snubber.
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  #6  
Old 09-10-2003, 06:48 PM
Fastem Fastem is offline
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would the setup you (rumblefish) be reasonable for daily driving with those 4.10 gears? How fast do you think it would go?

Is getting those kind of speeds that DartGT66 got pretty common for being so simple? Or is he just a fluke hehe
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  #7  
Old 09-10-2003, 07:57 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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DartGT66's set up is miss matched mostly by intake. The rear gears are to steep with big tires, of for which he has not. His little tires help make the times and driving duty's bareable. He did not list converter stall, but that's something I'm not touching. I really am a 4spd guy.
I drive the Cuda with the 4.10 gears and a 255/60/15 tire. Thats about 27 inchs tall. It's OK for daily driving. I would not really do any long driving to work with it. Hy-way speeds are approx. 60 @ 3300 rpm.
The cam, MoPars 292/.509 Hyd, is what I call the last of the streetable cams. Hi stall is needed with an auto.
You could use, IE; MoPars 284/ .484 cam for better streetablity and mantain similar times. The 292 will out do the 284 if properly set up. But with stock heads, it's just a hair better. Works well with the Edel. heads. They flow pretty good in stock form. (Approx. 250 cfm.)
I have not been able to take this to the track. If there has been 1 thing I wish I could have done, it would be taken to the track, but I have not been able to was to test it. I have been thrown a wrench all damn summer long.
Others here with the same combo only in different cars but similar weight have turned mid 12's all day.
A few here have done low 12's. IE; 12..3 - 12.1
You could do the smaller cam, 284/.484 and 3.91 gears for respectable times and power.
(I would do a split pattern cam. Hughes, Comp, Racer Brown etc...)
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  #8  
Old 09-11-2003, 03:21 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Were I to do a similar engine today, I would use a RPM intake, do some head work, take care fo bringing the Cr in to 9.5:1 range and use one or two steps milder cam. I run the 292 with Rhoads lifetrs, and that propably helped a little, the intake was the thing that propably killed it after 5500 rpm and the only time I was at the track I pulled it to 6500. Was wondering why it felts like starting always to pull way better on the next gear
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2003, 06:03 PM
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jasontlit jasontlit is offline
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Hey Dartgt66,

Did I read your first post wrong, or are you runnig 4 turbo mufflers?

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  #10  
Old 09-12-2003, 03:14 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Actually at the time I had two turbo mufflers and two long glasspacks in the rear. I like my cars pretty quiet and have always used efficient mufflers; our current cars have also 4 mufflers, the '69 has 4 apple racing mufflers and my '73 has two straigthline performance mufflers and two simmons mufflers. They are called "electric cars" at the strip; the '69 run high 9's and the '73 high 10's with 3.23 gears, both on street tires & pump gas.
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2003, 09:04 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Aww, I figured it was a muffler for every 2 header pipes.
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2003, 09:17 PM
Fastem Fastem is offline
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Well at least I know about waht I need now. I would probably put 3.91 gears on it for a bit better daily driving.. I know gas mileage is almost a lost cause on these hehe but rumblefish or dartgt66 do you know what kind of mileage I could expect to get with an engine built up to about this point? With 3.91 gears . Mileage isnt a huge concern its just nice to know.


Should I look for a specific year block to get?

The choices for heads is kind of confusing so many different ones , what should I look for, should I have them ported/ put bigger valves, I know you have listed some but if you could elaborate on what my best options would be I would appreciate it.
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  #13  
Old 09-13-2003, 06:58 AM
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ChallengerChuck ChallengerChuck is offline
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Cool Watch for production tolerances!

If I were in your shoes,I would buy the MP short block as per Mopardad.I would slip in a nice dual pattern hydraulic camshaft from Hughes Engines and top it with either an Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap or (if you want some eye candy) a MP Six Pack intake package.I would go for the Edelbrock mainly because it's relatively simpler,but do what you want to do in this vein.
If you do go in the route of rebuilding a used 360,you will need to watch tolerances;Chrysler wasn't known for its production tolerances during this time.I have heard of true connecting rod c/c length being off by .1 inch!This factor alone is why I would go for the MP crate motor;MP seems to have their act together now in this regard.
Also,if you are going down the OE rebuild route,you might want to cut the 360 mains down to 318/340 size,particularly if you are going to take this car to the strip often.Reducing internal friction increases power.However,if you are keeping this car on the street,I wouldn't worry about this issue.
Merely my two (2) cents worth (?)...................................
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2003, 03:35 PM
Fastem Fastem is offline
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Well when mopardad said that , I thought it was a great Idea, then I did a search on these forums and I brought up a bunch of people saying that they werent built too well and if you bought one you had to tear it down and check everything out.

Im all for doing it this way , but has anything changed would I still want to take it all apart or have they got their act together?


Also where would be the best place to get one of the shortblocks?
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  #15  
Old 09-13-2003, 04:36 PM
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The MP shortblocks have gotten to be alot better than they initially were. They were coming through with alot of mistakes that were easy to find if you would take the time to check them out. They do have a 90 day warranty that they will stand behind. Still like I said check them out before final assembly, look for bearings not being clearanced properly, untorqued main caps, etc. All the pieces are there for it to be a good foundation, you just need to make sure its on "firm ground". There is probably a Chrysler or Dodge dealer near you that you could get one for a good price if you check around. My son has one in his Aspen topped with 2.02 J heads , a Victor 340 intake, MP 590 cam car weight is 3050 with him in it & has gone 11.04 at 122 MPH.
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  #16  
Old 09-13-2003, 07:16 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Quote:
My son has one in his Aspen topped with 2.02 J heads , a Victor 340 intake, MP 590 cam car weight is 3050 with him in it & has gone 11.04 at 122 MPH.
Thats showin them how it's done!
Good job!
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2003, 08:40 PM
Fastem Fastem is offline
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Ok do they make a 10:1 MP Shortblock, moparts only has a 9.5:1 and a 10.5:1

Just checking so I can get everything straight
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2003, 08:45 PM
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Just use the 9.5 and mill your heads. That will work.
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2003, 08:51 PM
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There's a website that sells stroker shortblocks for pretty cheap Their called Speed-o-motive. Here's the address: http://www.speedomotive.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm. They also sell long blocks pretty reasonable prices.
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  #20  
Old 09-13-2003, 10:00 PM
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OK, there is some confusion here, The MP shortblock P4876908 is listed as a 10:1 in the 2001 MP catalog, however it is listed as being 9.5:1 at Manicini Racing website.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shortblocks.jpg (47.4 KB, 13 views)
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  #21  
Old 09-14-2003, 01:57 PM
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LOL - the only question I can answer for sure is the one on whether there are any good books on the subject - try Larry Shepherd's "How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines". Quite thorough and detailed.
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  #22  
Old 09-14-2003, 03:20 PM
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The best books are the Mopar engine and CHassis books that you can pick up from the dealer. Lots of past and present info as well as part numbers too.
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  #23  
Old 09-14-2003, 06:35 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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soldier14; Millerplace huh? I see the Island crowd is startin to flow in some! Good place that speed-o-motive. They have been around for years and years.


Fastem, what Mopardad said. Your going to have to measure everything up. Then when you decided on a gasket, .....(LOL) whacth the comp ratio change with each gasket used. Do the math.
Whatch for bore and thickness of the gasket and the heads cc size of the chamber.

Hey Cuda Don, what's those gaskets again? Cometic (sp) with the proper bore size instead of the whoopin overbore size of the Fel-Pro's?
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