MANUAL steering- LONG pitman arm?

[Marc]

I have a manual steering box, and I need a pitman arm the same length as a "C" body, which is what it's going into.
The C body power steering had a larger diameter steering shaft, or I could have just bolted it on.

The "T/A" quick ratio pitman arm is longer, but I think the indexing spline is in the wrong location, which wouldn't work.
I am wondering if anybody knows what will work?

A late model, an early Imperial, or...?

Small diameter shaft, long length pitman!!!!

Thanks!

[weerem]

I could be out to lunch but aren't there 4 indexing splines? If so you ca have it out a lttle and adjust your tie rods to center your wheel. it may turn a little sharper one way but, oh well.

[Marc]

I won't settle for sharper one way.


I'll go to a rack and pinion if I H-A-V-E to, but I'm trying to keep the MoPar manual box if I can...

SOMEBODY must know?

[pishta]

could you just file out a new index? A lot of the boxes have 4 indexes for different applications.

[dwc43]

Try firm feel. They have stock and fast ratio pitman and idler arms and boxes too. They should have and know what you need.

[dacuda]

marc

i hope this helps.i just went through the same deal with my 66 fury.i switched over to manual steering and ran into a similiar problem.the pitman arm shaft on most manual steering boxes is a smaller diameter than what i had and what most full sizes have.i beleive you can get the correct large shaft box from flaming river industries for @$500 but thats a little pricey for most of us.what i did was make a pitman arm by combining a small shaft and a large shaft pitman arm into one .if you can weld or know a good place to get it welded then its an easy fix.also what i found is even though they list a seperate pitman arm for manual and power on a c body ,they are the same ,at least on mine it was.i went out to buy a manual pitman arm and found out the hard way.save your $90 if you already have one to start.cut the splined end for the steering box off the smaller diameter pitman arm.now cut or grind it down so that its a little more than half its original thickness.it may take some time cuz the steel is hard.make sure to remember which way the spline goes on the shaft cuz i think it is tapered slightly and will only seat correctly one way.now take this and center it on top off the arm you want to use indexing it to the four keyways located on each shaft.close is good enough cuz you may be off a spline at the most which is marginal.now weld it up.for a safety precaution i drilled from the top piece into the bottom piece and put in hardened 1/8" steel dowel pins and weled over the tops so they couldnt fall out . if by chance the weld started to fail the dowels would keep it from shearing completely off.the last thing to do is to put it on and you will need a reduced thickness nut because the large nut is to bithick.i used a onw with a nylon insert to help it from vibrating off along with a little loctite.mine looks great and if you werent looking for it you would never know .i hope this helps or gives you an idea on how to solve your dilema.

[Marc]

I'm hoping the "Flaming River" box turns out!
The Flaming River site is down, I'm not sure what's wrong, but at least I have a direction to follow, THANKS!

[dilley340]

Hey Marc, I just went through the same situation, only mine was with my '73 Duster with too long of a pitman arm.
The pitman arm that I originally had (shown in the pix below) has about a 6.0" C/L to C/L of the ball pivot and the gear shaft and has about a 1.005" distance between the four indexing splines.





I'm not sure what it came out of, but if it looks like something you could use, just email me.

[Marc]

What's your email addy?
It LOOKS like it might work?

Email me a price and anything else I need to know!!!
crazymoparguy@hotmail.com

Thanks dilley340!

[dilley340]

Oops, sorry Marc. I thought my email would be in my profile. Anyhoo, drop me a line at dilley340@msn.com.

[Marc]

Email sent, thanks Doug!