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  #1  
Old 09-19-2003, 11:13 PM
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Default i know its the wrong forum, but..... brake question

how in the hell do i unlock brake drums and rotors? i got a car out of a field, and these things are locked up soled. i dont wanna sawzall em, and i dont have a torch. any other ideas?
the car has no motor or trans, so i cant use engine torque.
im all out, and ive gotta get the car moved this weekend.
please help!!
mike
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Old 09-19-2003, 11:48 PM
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Either use a hoist to drag it onto a trailer on pay some one to drag it onto a flatbed car hauler. Those are your two best options.
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Old 09-20-2003, 12:40 AM
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but what do i do when i get it to my apartment? i dont have much in the way of equipment up here (im at college), and this is my new project to keep me from drinking. something to work with, a toy, if you will. i have teh big red wrench, but not up here. so, suggestions? ill have a little more tie in the following weeks (im going to go with a roll back. guy came into work and said he'd do it for 40 bucks!!!). so, suggestions?
mike
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:05 AM
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Once you get it home, you can go to the hardware store and get a propane torch. Then remove one tire at a time and heat up the drum and beat it off with a hammer.

The hardware store should have another torch that burns even hotter. I forget what it is called, but, it is in a yellow canister.
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:17 AM
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aight, so heats the best way? any precautions above and beyond a fire extinguisher and no flammible materials close by that i hould take? will it fubar the drums and rotors?
mike
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
The hardware store should have another torch that burns even hotter. I forget what it is called, but, it is in a yellow canister.
MAPP gas. (Methyl Acetylene Propadiene)
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Old 09-20-2003, 10:56 AM
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That's the stuff. Thanks.

Yes, the heat will most likely warp the drums and rotor, but since they are that far gone with rust, it really doesn't matter.
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Old 09-20-2003, 12:29 PM
71SATELITE 71SATELITE is offline
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Did you try backing off the self adjusters, then beat with BFH so that springs may move the shoes in. Try also undoing the bleed valve completly and try rocking the drum back and forth in and out. If the none of the above work refer back to BFH. Make sure the E brake isn't set or stuck. If so work the cable a bit.
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05 Hemi Magnum R/T (Current)
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  #9  
Old 09-20-2003, 12:33 PM
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thanks, yall. i really dont know whats locking them up yet/ could be the e-brake, could be rusted cylenders, could ce the pads/shoes corroded into the drums. the fronts shouldnt be too hard with a bfh to renove the calipers, but its the rears im worried about.i havent been able to find afforgable replacement drums (its a 72 javelin SST). thanks again, guys.
mike
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2003, 12:50 PM
DonP DonP is offline
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A 1971 barracuda has sat in my garage for 5 years with the front left drum locked up.

Yesterday I bought some wildwoods disc brakes, so propane torch here I come!

Any recommendations as far as where to heat and hit it? I was going to use a disk grinder (long messy job).

Will the spindles get messed up? I think the wildwood replacements count on you using the existing spindles.

Thanks for the great topic!

Don
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DonP
A 1971 barracuda has sat in my garage for 5 years with the front left drum locked up.

Yesterday I bought some wildwoods disc brakes, so propane torch here I come!

Any recommendations as far as where to heat and hit it? I was going to use a disk grinder (long messy job).

Will the spindles get messed up? I think the wildwood replacements count on you using the existing spindles.

Thanks for the great topic!

Don
If you think that the brakes are locked to the drum, can you just snip the pins that hold the shoes to the back plate? If so you could remove the the entire assembly. It's been a long time since I worked on brakes, but thought that I would ask the question.
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:33 PM
71SATELITE 71SATELITE is offline
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Doug is on the money!
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  #13  
Old 09-20-2003, 01:57 PM
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i think i might just be an idiot for never thinking of that. in the past ive sawzalled them, ground them, thorched them, etc. that was all time consuming, messy and destructive. i wish i had thought of that. it will be the easiest way, i think. if i can get the mins cut.
thanks, doug
mike
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by doungta1@aol


If you think that the brakes are locked to the drum, can you just snip the pins that hold the shoes to the back plate? If so you could remove the the entire assembly. It's been a long time since I worked on brakes, but thought that I would ask the question.
How would you get the springs and the cable adjuster off of teh shoe guide stud??
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2003, 08:51 PM
doungta1@aol doungta1@aol is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dusterbd
i think i might just be an idiot for never thinking of that. in the past ive sawzalled them, ground them, thorched them, etc. that was all time consuming, messy and destructive. i wish i had thought of that. it will be the easiest way, i think. if i can get the mins cut.
thanks, doug
mike
Glad to have the opportunity to reply. I'm just getting back into the race/mopar thing after a 20 year rest. Can't believe that I stayed away for so long. I used the lack of $ as an excuse. I got over that and been working on a 65 plymouth for a few years. Have not gotten to the brake thing yet. Been spending all of the $ on going fast. Still about one year away for turning the key, so I'll have a year to save for the brakes.
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