Metering block plugged ?

[darren509]

Car was showing signs of running rich ; dark plugs, so I was checking the carb over and the pass. side air fuel screw has no affect at all in or out. Driver side adjusts fine ? Could there be somthing inside the metering block thats blocking a passage ? I use the blue non stick gaskets and the carb is a Holley 4777-7 650 DP..Jetting is 67 PMRY. and 75 SCDY.

[charger_dan]

Holley metering blocks have a tendency to do this from time to time.

Remove the block(s) and you can either soak them or I just remove
the idle screws/jets/PV and blow them out real good with
compressed air. Always use a new power valve gasket upon reassembly.
Doesn't hurt to blow out the air bleeds as well (from the metering block
side of the carb body).

Good call on the non-stick gaskets. Those things are awesome.

The above should fix your idle screw issues. Reset idle mix and take for
a drive. Let us know.

..... D A N

[b-1ken]

If the problem persists, it might be to your advantage to simply buy a new metering block. I'm not a big fan of those non stick gaskets (ESPECIALLY the Moroso rubber ones).

[cuda66273]

Remove the screw and blow carb cleaner through the hole, it should blow out the top of the carb through the hole in the air horn.

The spray cleaner through the same hole and it should of course come shooting out the air bleed screw hole.

Catch the crud so it doesn't go down in the motor it could be iron or sand.

Weren't you running this car without an air filter for awhile?

You shouldn't have any trouble with the non-stick gaskets, the BG ones are red and the coating is water soluable and not fuel soluable so if your getting beeding around the carb your picking up moisture either from the fuel or from the ambient air....common and not too much you can do about it.

You can also just put your finger over the air bleed hole in the horn and it should make the motor change, this would indicate that the screw is not seating properly and is allowing air to continually flow through the bleed.

Think about what that screw does and what can affect it's operation.....your a smart guy and you'll figure it out

[darren509]

I have never ran with out an air cleaner... Don, Im the one who called you and you told me to try putting the paper clips in the bleeds to see if theres a change, no change, but Im going to fix the metering block first . Thanks,, well see

[cuda66273]

Yup I know.....no change means your probably not pulling any air through them, you better check for external and internal vacuum leaks.

Didn't you also tell me you had real low vacuum on that motor?

[darren509]

Yes, low vaccum. Leaks, oohh ohhh Tried blowing carb cleaner through it but no affect. This weekend I'll try taking it off for a thorough cleaning.After that ?? Where should I check for leaks since the problem is on one side of the carb, for example would a intake leak show this symptom or is this a carburator only issue ?

[cuda66273]

Now your asking me to do a smoke test from a 1000 miles away...you could have a bad valve, bad intake gasket, leaking in the mounting of the carb on that corner...there's dozens of places to look.

[darren509]

O.K I will check every where.

[darren509]

O.K after checking into the problem I was trying to tune the car with an Edelbrock A.F.R meter and I noticed the rear discharge nozzle is slowly weeping fuel. I loosened up the rear pump cam clearence to eliminate the arm having tension pushing the fuel out. The gaskets look to be good. Rear float level is at the bottom of the sight plug. Meter shows idle mixture @ 12.5 -13.2

[darren509]

The rear float was actually wat too high, must of been not enough coffee So reajusted rear float correctly (this time its true ) Also have a correction on my first post. the primary jetting is 64 and sec. is 75. A.F.M screws are out exactly 2 turns and meter shows a fat 12.5 - 13 in park and in gear goes from 13 - 14. After speaking with Don I know my problems lie in my parts not matching eachother; too big of cam.

[darren509]

After fixing the rear float level Ive been driving around and the car has been spiting back through the carb occasionally .I have had this problem many times before due to intake not sealing on my Eddy heads. So I pull the plugs and theyre not black anymore but an ash color , porcelin and electrode are same color. Leaning out ? So then I start checking for leaks with starting fluid and wham !! Both sides bog down at idle when spraying. For the record this is the 5th intake gasket and diffrent well known people in my club have tried it with no luck. I have tried everything including anerobic sealer, ckecking for square Is there such a thing as an auxillary gasket to use for alumn. products. Going to take a time out now and cool off before I do somthing dumb

[DonP]

darren509,

I don't know if this will help, but I'll throw it out here. I'm not the expert but maybe this will spark someone else's memory.

In an article on six packs I read, it says to skip the front and back cork gaskets, and to use a thick bead of silicon. It says to let the bead "skin over" before putting the manifold on.

Don't know if it will help, but I hope it might.

Don

[MAXAXE3]

darren509,

to get a little more specific, what intake gaskets are you using and was the intake new or used?

also my assumption is you are narrowing the leak to the gaskets and you stated you used anerobic sealer (which is not for that purpose) but where did you put the sealer.

i'm attempting to grab as much information to help you out, hope i can

[darren509]

I have gone trhough a new edel. rpm, my old performer which is on now and a torker2. I am using the felpro 1213 and the anerobic sealer was used in the same manner as would gaskasinch as per edels. instructions. I have followed the advice to a tee from a friend who is a 5 star Chrysler mech. and has a 9sec. charger himself. I dont use cork at all only the blue rtv. Thats not where its leaking though.

[MAXAXE3]

its leaking across the gasket about center of intake?

[darren509]

After my old man was helping me, he told me that both sides were leaking because he thought I said driver side was doing it . I was taking his advice as I was in the car. I checked w/him holding throttle and it is only leaking on the #8 cylinder side. Time for a smear or black rtv now ?

[MAXAXE3]

along the entire side or at #8 cylinder?

[darren509]

Just around the #8 cylinder

[MAXAXE3]

ok, thanks for the info. bottom line the intake has to come back off BUT be very careful and inspect the entire gasket - head side and intake side. see if there is any debris or material to hold keep the gasket from sealing.

i take from what your telling me, by the sealer, your trying to seal the entire gasket to both components. try this....

clean both surfaces with a razor blade gently, lightly scraping across both surfaces and the clean dry. take black or grey rtv and run a small bead around the intake port and coolant ports on the head - the wipe with your finger to flatten and smear, but not too much, lay the gasket on the head DRY, and then do the same thing with the rtv to the gasket, gently, don't move the gasket around too much. let sit for about 5 minutes and then put the intake on gently and carefully. make sure you tighten from the center of the intake outward, in snug steps - going back and forth across intake. now let intake sit and then start up.

i have done this for many years and then mopar came out with the intake gaskets with a silicon bead around all the intake ports (i was on to this before them...hehehe).

my race small blocks have never leaked and most of the time i can reuse the gasket a few times by pulling off the old silicone and reapplying.

[darren509]

Are you using iron or alluminum ? The felpro strictly say to not use silicone around the intake ports or the gasket will fail. Thay also come with a blue seal around the intake ports. Well hell, if my gaskets keep failing anyway, then why not go against what they say. Their way hasnt worked yet. For the record I put intakes on all my familys cars and never had this problem. Seems to be only with alumn. P.S have you heard of an aux. gasket for the small block ?

[MAXAXE3]

i have used them on both, iron/alum and alum/alum - it all really has to do with expansion and contraction rates really.

if you want to get real cool i am working on a set with no gaskets, just o-ring seals - should work real well

i have to double check at work tomorrow, but mp should have just regular paper gaskets for the stock engines, do not order the "race gaskets" they have the silicon beads.

although i will cut my own depending on material thickness i want, just like the w2's - they come in .030,.045,.060.

[darren509]

Should I stick with the felpro 1213 ????

[darren509]

Im a little confused, you sound like you want to use the gaskets with the bead and then you say dont use the beaded ones. Should I follow your steps with the 1213 gasket and use rtv ??

[MAXAXE3]

sorry for the delay in getting back to you, i could not get on all day.

the felpro with the silicone bead is a small premeasured thickness for "perfect" intake face and head surface - which is ok. but it does not appear that is what we have here, especially since 5 sets have been on here.

get regular paper gaskets - no additional coatings or sealers other than what i laid out earlier. get with your parts supplier and check any brand they have - look at them or try... mr. gasket etc.

your going to make your own beads the way you need them.

[darren509]

Parts stores here dont know squat so I have to be specific when asking. Should I say its for a 340 car, that way the sizes on the intake are the same as the head ? By the way I cant log in any more and only respond to e-mails. Is somthing wrong with the chat room ?

[MAXAXE3]

go to a local speed shop - look for mr. gasket part# 307

[darren509]

Thanks, did you have a problem with the chat room also ?

[MAXAXE3]

sure did all day, was going to get on here at work to post back but could not - even when i got home it was hard to get connected here - then it started to work --- i don't know ???

[b-1ken]

Have you checked the manifold to head mating surfaces to see if they are parallel to each other (in both directions)? I had a student who had this problem and I've seen on this board that Edelbrock's quality control isn't what it should be.