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Considering an A-body Duster
Hey everybody, I think perhaps going Mopar V-8 is a good way to go. I plan on supercharging my 93 Duster 3.0s too, but I would love to have a Mopar musclecar. Seeing the ones on eBay really set me off. I guess I have some questions. My goal is 11s or 12s, I'd rather not use bottle. What motor is best for street and strip? Comfort is not an issue. 727 trans is the trans of choice right? I see 440s, well built but not monster modified, with built 727s in the same manner running 11s N/A..is 360 all I need or for 10s-11s do I need a 383 stroker or 440 or what? I'd just as soon stay auto, but reverse manual valve body with built up internals would be planned. Summit racing has a 360 with 380 hp and 410 torque for $3500, can I do better? With a good 727 trans, what could I run with that engine? I don't figure parts are easy to find like they are for my 93 Sundance Dusters, though I could be wrong, and I'd like to be. Finding a place to buy the car doesn't look too easy either, other than a crate motor straight from Mopar where can you find a 440 or 383?Anyone know the price for a crate 440 from Mopar? Questions, comments, harassment, all is welcome Thanks guys for any help
SK |
#2
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You posted this in the wrong forum. If you really want a lot of answers, I would suggest reposting this in the Performance Talk area of the board.
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#3
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I'm surprised you didn't more it E.
I'll take a crack at this in this manor..... What do you want in your Duster. Any engine can deliver. It's up to you. Think about this and come back. Big block or small block, and do you want a stroker of any of these? You can build your own for cheaper. Do some on line searching too. |
#4
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Sorry. E. Rumble, I really don't have too much of a preference as to displacement, but big block Mopar sounds like an awesome way to go, 440 sounds really good. Stroker is fine, if not I'm sure its mean enough stock, though it won't stay that way I don't wanna use bottle, I suppose for big block V-8 engines it's alot different in the power adders aspect then from the 3.0 V6s I come from, supercharge would be fine but since it's got all these cubes building a mean[er] NA would be best..if I was to get a A body, I'd like to use a 727 or a common automatic similar..isn't 727 the best auto to use? My goal for not incredibly high amount of money (3-4K for mods) would be 12s, for much more would be 11s..thanks for replying
Sean |
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I understand they have some stroker kits for the 360ci that will pump out a lot of torque and hp. I've never seen one, when I'm ready to build a new engine I will definitely research this. A guy I know claims he's built a couple for customers and says they have dyno'd out at over 550hp. I would see an advantage in a small block on weight and ease of installing one in an A-body without buying a kit and doing mods to the car. A true 550hp should get you where you want to be, thats if you can put the hp to the ground.
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Thanks. Hopefully he should get more responses over here.
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#9
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If you like the idea of a B/RB engine in that Duster, you should take a look at Big Block Dart. They have a lot of great info on this.
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#10
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Hey,
I'm also building a A-body up, I WAS going to go with a 440, but ran into problems with having to rebuild the entire suspension and bracing it. Have a buddy in CO. with a 440 Dart and he didn't do any suspension mods, etc... romped on it and bend his frame, ripped up his mounts, and all sorts of stuff. I would suggest a built up small block, you can get plenty of Horses out of it and they fit nice and easy. I am building a 402 Stroker out of an old 318 Poly and it's computerized Dynoed at 525 horsepower with a 700 cfm carb, single plane manifold, running pump gas... If you want more info my Subject is in PERFORMANCE under "318 poly to 402 stroker" Good Luck! Jay B |
#11
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Again, everythin that you want to know is at Big Block Dart.
The only difference in the front suspension would be larger torsion bars (unless the front end is in need of a rebuild to begin with). Sub-frame connectors are a must and can be done fairly inexpensive by any good body shop. I consider sub-frame connectors to be a must on any 30+ year old uni-body that is going to have any power (too include a build small block) under the hood. |
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Duster141, not a problem.
ehostler, sorry, my bad.
Stoga , thank you. Duster141 Until you figure out what it is you want, your really not going to get a solid reply, just people saying do this, and do that. Quote:
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Let me reply this way to your delemia. IMO, to go fast on the cheap, I would do a big block, stock 440 cid. This is the best bet for the money if the 440 is cheap. 3-4 k for mods is not a lot of money. YOU must make up your mind. Don't wait on us or it'll never get built. Make a plan and stick to it. |
#13
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If you do the big block A body you'll need to tie the frames together plus add a 10 point cage and at least ladder bars to hook it up. A 360 will make over 400 hp easy and will be lighter. With the A body it will need ballast in the rear to make up for the heavy front end too.
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NA = Nauturaly Aspirated (carb/EFI)
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I agree with rumble fish. A relatively stock 440 in an A body yields a very streetable package. Virtually impossible to screw up.
Big motor, big power, big torque. Sure it won't handle great, but not many big block cars do. Even sb A body's are so old, that they don't handle well compared to the daily drivers we're used to. Lots of guys run big blocks in these cars without ripping them in half. Frame connectors, and make sure the rest of the stuff is decent when you start, and it will work. Emphasis on relatively stock 440. If you crank it up, with a stall converter ect, you will have to beef up the car to match. |
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E to the rescue again. I am humbled and feel silly on missing that.
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iI did it pretty cheap. Got about $3500. in it total. Can't beat the bang for the buck. My car was set up for a 340, the small block bars are fine. The car didn't even cringe with the 440. I took about 3 months to do it. Got lucky with the headers. Big block dart ( and this forum) were very helpfull. Fabbed my own mounts.
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