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#1
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Engine start up with a new cam.
I'm geting ready to fire a rebulit 340 up. The cam instructions say to make sure it fires on the first or second turn of the engine otherwise you may damage the cam. How critical is this for the engine to fire right up with a new cam? You would really have to have all your ducks in a row for it to start on the first turn of the engine.
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#2
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[QUOTE]Initial Fire-In/Breaking-In The Cam
1. Using a suitable tool and a hand drill, rotate the oil pump driveshaft in its normal direction to build oil pressure in the engine. On many engines, this will require removing the distributor from the engine. Engines with dry-sump oiling can be primed by disconnecting the drive belt and using a suitable tool to rotate the pump pulley in the direction of engine rotation. Rotate the oil pump drive until the system is fully pressurized (for approximately 45 seconds after the first major resistance is encountered in driving the oil pump). Some engines (such as the Toyota 20R and 22R family) drive the oil pump directly off of the crankshaft, so these cannot have their oil pumps rotated independently of the crankshaft, so this step will have to be skipped for them. 2. Re-install the distributor (if removed) or oil pump drive belt. Ensure that ignition system is set to a static timing that is close to the initial advance you intend to run. Ensure that the ignition secondary circuits are all wired in the correct firing order. Ensure that the ignition coil is *not* connected or that the ignition is otherwise disabled. Ensure that the battery is connected properly to the starting, charging, and other circuits of the car. Ensure that the air cleaner is properly installed and the filter is clean. 3. Crank the engine using the starter and observe the oil pressure gauge (if installed). Crank the engine for approximately 45 seconds to circulate oil through all of the galleys in the crankshaft, camshaft(s), engine block, cylinder head(s), pushrods (if present), etc. 4. Enable the ignition system by re-connecting it. If the engine is carbureted, prime the carburetor(s). Crank the engine over with the ignition enabled until it fires. 5. Once the engine has fired, immediately bring the engine to a rotational speed of 1800-2200 RPM to ensure that the camshaft(s) and cylinders obtain adequate oiling. Run the engine around this speed range for at least 20 minutes. While it is running, observe the engine for leaks or improper operation and monitor the oil pressure and engine temperature. If anything is wrong, SHUT THE THING DOWN IMMEDIATELY and correct the problem, then finish running-in the cam(s). It is important that the camshaft(s) be run-in for at least 20 minutes prior to applying a load to the engine to ensure that there is no camshaft or lifter scuffing. Note that some roller camshafts do not require the 20 minute run-in procedure. Check your camshaft manufacturer's documentation if you are unsure about this. 6. After the minumum of 20 minutes has passed, bring the engine back to a moderate curb idle and set the ignition timing, idle mixture, and idle speed to proper levels. 7. Shut the engine down and change the oil and filter(s). Changing the oil and filter(s) will remove any debris that has been washed out of the various nooks and crannies in the engine and also reduce oil dilution by the assembly lubricant(s). Allow the engine to cool for at least 6 hours and re-torque the head bolts.[quote] from here; http://home.pacbell.net/bigiron/Articles/break-in.html |
#3
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Re: Engine start up with a new cam.
Quote:
Get all of those ducks in a row: initial timing, idle mixture, fuel in bowls, etc. Even with everything set correctly, the thing will probably still be a little hard to start, as it's a new, tight engine, with some residual oil in the cylinders. But, if everything is correct, it should start in the first try or two. Sometimes you need to tweak the initial timing to get the thing to light off. So Have a buddy handy to help out. It's really a two person job. I've done this by myself, and trust me, it's much better with another set of eyes/hands. He watches the engine compartment for any leaks, wierd stuff, etc. while break-in is happening. He can also tweak the distributor timing if needed to help get the thing started. He can also adjust your break-in RPMs at the carb, so you don't have to stay put in the driver's seat with your foot on the pedal. This allows you to focus your attention on everything that's happening, and you can think better with all the excitement going on around you. Good luck ....... D A |
#4
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There is a great article in the tech archives. Hydraulic cam breakin procedure
I'm begining to wonder why I even fought to get the archives. No one EVER looks there, even though everyone wanted them. |
#5
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Thanks for all of the advice. When the car gets back from the paint shop I will be firing it up.
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