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#1
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overheating 440
I have a supercharged 440 in a street car its more for show than go and for tw years it won't cool. We took it out and took it apart and there is no cooling passages in the lower section of one head and there is no holes in the head gasakets in either of these places could someone give me some hints, tip or tricks. I've been through all the odvious, electric fans, big waterpumps, high flow thermostat, no thermostat, water wetter etc. and help would be great.
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#2
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No thermostat will almost always make the problem worse.
What type of supercharger are you running? What size radiator are you running? Could your fuel mixture be too lean? Could you have too much advance, in the distributor? |
#3
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Cooling
I agree with e hostler.
There are many things it could be. If you could supply more details it would be easier to pin point the problem. As for the lower cooling passages, consult your old head gasket. If memmorie serves ,The triangle shap holes are not supose to let coolent pass through. |
#4
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we were running the biggest electric fan with our 440, and could not ge tit to cool, so we bought a flex fan, i know it sounds crazy, but this one http://store.summitracing.com/produc...earchtype=ecat actually cools better, and takes almost no power to run. Because its lightand its only like 20 bucks so u cant go wrong.
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#5
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ehostler,
your right, it did cool better without the thermostat, but we had to try it just to say we did, the supercharger is a 8-71 currently 20% under driven it has two barry grant carbs 650-'s, the radiator is a walker alm. 26" x 26" x 3" we're running 32 degrees of advance (total) with no boost back out which is a sorce of concern, the plugs always come out black so I think we're good on fuel. we have a edelbrook water pump flex fan and an electric fan, both boxed in so the air has to go through the radiator, the car will cool ok that is to say you can go 10-15 miles before you start getting in trouble as long as you don't get on to it. AS soon as the load goes up the temp does to and it will not come back down unless you shut the car off. Thanks for your help Jason |
#6
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Grass roots blowers (8-71/12-71) are known to run hot, due to the inefficient design. They cause a considerable amount of heat on the charge air. Of course, the higher the RPM, the hotter the charge. This is one of the causes of the problem.
From what I recall, black plugs is not a good thing. I proper plug should come out clean with a slight amount of discoloration on the insulator. If I recall, black means you are running lean and charing the insulator. |
#7
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black powdery carbon covered plugs means rich mixture. I dont have a blower, but my 440 would over heat without a thermostat and electric fan. I put a low temp thermostat in and a mechanical flex fan end of problem.
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#8
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a long shot, but check to see that your water pump is correct for your housing.
there was a thread a couple of months ago addressing this. seems that the impellers on some pumps are in a different direction than on others. the author of the thread (6packin maybe?) said he switched from a new aluminum to an old used stock pump and that stopped his overheating problem. he got the tip from an old time racer. there was a lot of debate on that thread as to whether the direction of the blades on the impeller made a difference, but it sounds like you have tried almost everything else, worth a look into. |
#9
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Drive it like you stole it, if it won't take it I don't want it.
ehostler and dnk1997@aol.com, THanks again for your responce, I realise that a lot of black on my plugs means that I'm running rich, I was mearly saying that I knew I did'nt have a lean condition, I will look into that water pump and check for clearence and rotation, someone else mentioned this to me a while back but I never did check it out, also thanks for the tip on blower heat this also makes sence in relation to the problem at hand. Like I said before it would almost cool as long as I wasn't getting on to it but as soon as it went up it wouldn't come back. Thanks again for the help. Jason
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#10
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Do you have a timming retard device that retards timming at higher rpm when he boost is at maximum? This could also be the problem.
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#11
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440 overheating
It could have a air-pocket. New rebuilds sometimes get an air pocket in the cooling system that causes an overheat condition. A hand vacuum pump manually sucks the air pocket out of the engine resulting in normal operating temperatures.
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#12
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Read Sanborns post on cooling in the Circle Track section, mostly for SB but the principal is the same, good info.
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#13
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DWC43
I think your correct this is about the only thing that we Haven't tyied and it seems like it would at least help the problem when the problem is at it's worst, full load. So we are certainly going to do this, the engine is apart now we were hopeing to find somthing inside that stood out but so far nothing. We're ging to do things a little different when it goes back together but basicaly it will be the same engine. THanks for the help. Hey, do you have any recomendations on a timing retard device? THanks again. Jason. |
#14
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#15
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=MSD%2D7800
Try this set up. A little pricy, but worth it with plenty of features too. It should do what you need it to do. I run a 7al2 on dirt an asphalt race tracks with there high vibe coil and it works great too. |
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