Can't Get Engine Out

[DANS66DART]

The transmission bellhousing is catching on the center link in the front suspension. Is taking the center link out as easy as undoing the castle nut where it bolts to the tie rods and pulling it out?

Dan

[dwc43]

Not too hard, but you will have to take a bfh hammer to it. Why not just jack he front of the car up so that the tranny can angle down and then raise the engine higher and pull it right out?

[DANS66DART]

Tried that. However, the trans is dimpling my firewall Unless I'm still not high enough.

Dan

[dusta340]

its easy, unbolt the tranny from the engine and take them out seperatly

[DANS66DART]

Dan

[DANS66DART]

So I unbolted the tranny from the engine, per dusta340's suggestion, but they're still together. Is there something I'm missing in getting the two apart? The only thing I can think of is that the oil pan is playing a role in separating them.

Dan

[dwc43]

Did you unbolt the torque converter?

[DANS66DART]

I guess this answers your question dwc43: How?

Dan

[Slant Cecil]

I'd put 2 of the bell housing bolts in. This may keep from damaging the front pump while you unbolt the convertor. Then remove the tin dust shield. Normally I keep the starter on to bump the motor over to remove the 4-5/16" convertor bolts, you may be too far along for that, turn it over by hand. The crank will be drilled and tapped for a bolt but the bolt will most likely not be there, most slant6s didn't have one. You can use a bolt from a BB Mopar and then turn it with a rachet. If you have to, pull all the plugs and use the fan belt to turn it over. Anyway, remove the 4 bolts, slide the convertor to the rear, remove the last 2 bellhousing bolts and pull trans straight back. Removing convertor bolts are one of the first things I do.
If you need a slant6 core, there are quite a few at the U-Pull-It yard west of I-4 on 192, next to the auto auction. The prices seem to be low.

Cecil

[DANS66DART]

Thanks a lot guys. And now that my brother is in town this week, I might actually be able to get some help to do this with.

Slant Cecil: I haven't been over there since they came under new ownership. I don't know if I need a core or not; haven't had a shop look at my old one yet. The only thing I'm not sure about is the water neck on the head. It's pretty rusty, and there's a chunk missing on the flange that holds the hose on. Other than that....

I do appreciate the help.

Dan

[dwc43]

Hope you and your help can get it now. Let us know if you need more info.

[DANS66DART]

Alrighty then. I'm along to the point where, according to Cecil, I'm supposed to slide the converter back. However, while the converter bolts are undone, and the converter spins freely without the drive plate, it refuses to slide back. I don't want to take a cheater bar to it and force it. Any suggestions?

Dan

[dwc43]

As long as the bolts are out of hte converter and all of the bolts are out of the tranny housing, you can now split hte thing apart. It might be tight on hte dowel pins, so just stick a screw driver or slim pry bar between the bell housing and the block and nudge it apart.

[DANS66DART]

It has now been going on a week of me trying to get the two apart. I have double- and triple-checked to make sure I have all the bolts out, from block to casing, and from drive plate to converter. I have soaked the seam where the two meet with various WD-40-like substances in the hope that it dissolves some of the stuff holding them together. I have gotten a small prybar to no avail. I have gotten a large prybar to no avail. Short of beating the bellhousing with a BFH, I'm at a loss.

Dan

[moraycen]

How about the two bolts that come through from the front? Thay will be one on each side with 5/8 heads thay go through the block into the trans.
Ray

[dwc43]

Did you remove 4 converter bolts? If so, did the converter slide back? If not it's hung in the crank pilot. Force the conveerter back. Remove the crud by hand around the bellhousing. Did you miss a bolt? Does your / have the extra brace from the block on the left and right side from the engine to the tranny bell? If so remove them. Did you remove the starter? If not, remove it. If all of this has been done, you need a bigger hammer. Also make sure you dont have the engine at an angle that is putting stress against the tranny. The block has two dowel pins that aligns the trannny and if the engine is at an angle putting stress on the pins it could have it jammed up.

[DANS66DART]

I think that may be my problem. When I unbolted the flexplate from the converter, nothing moved. All this time when I've been using the prybar, the converter still didn't move.

As far as stress being put on the dowels, I've got both the motor and tranny supported.

Dan

[DANS66DART]

For all those involved, I finally got the engine and transmission out. And still connected together! I finally decided just to drop the steering mechanism. Good thing, too, the grease fittings and dust boots were shot. Anyway, when I got the thing out, imagine my surprise when I found 2 bolts I had missed. As soon as I took those out, the tranny slid right apart. Boy is my face red!

Moral of the story is, look for another thread where I seek out everyone's opinion on a good combo and various other questions.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Dan

[dwc43]

Glad to hear you got it out.