header clearance problems (71 roadrunner)

[71rdrunr]

I just finished putting a set of jet hot coated dynomax headers on my 71 road runner and when i was done i noticed that on the drivrs side one of the tubes is hitting the steering gear box. Just need to know what the best way to get in there and clearance it would be without taking the header off because it was very hard to get in. thanks for any help.

[polarapete]

it would be a good idea to be absolutely certain that the drivers side motor mount has not settled.

On the big blocks that mount is subjected to stress from torque and every time you change the oil filter a small amount of oil escapes and lays on top of the K-member. This then is thrown back on the mount rubber.

Recently, I changed the driver's side mount on my Polara to a "Schumacher" Magnum style. This is an interlocking mount that will not come apart under stress and I know it raised the engine on that side.

I was looking at the TTI website and they have published dimensions for engine location on their instruction page. Worth a look anyway.

Good luck.

[71rdrunr]

i just replaced the motor mounts last year but thanks ill check out that website.

[sgt._mezz]

my brothers 440 did that too. we jacked the motor up high enough and somehow snaked it in and out to ding it in the right spot... it BARELY sits on top of it, but the mounts line up... PITA!!

[pishta]

Try a big chisle! wedge it between the interfering part and give it a few taps. This works pretty good for header bolt clearancing too, Aside from peening it with a hammer on a bench.

[bbeckwith]

this kinda stuff is enough to make me want to buy a tube bending machine and start making my own headers, ones that actually do fit. wouldnt that be a shock.

[pishta]

I was close to buying one until I saw the bends it makes. Without stretching the metal on the outside of the radius, you are just closing the tube around a fixed die. That makes the cross section look like an oval, and a restrictive one at that. One option is to mock up a set from this type of tube and then take each pipe down to a muffler shop that has a mandrel tube bender (big bucks) and ask what it would cost to duplicate each tube. Of course the hard way would be to buy a header kit and cut and weld up your own. Im doing this right now and it is a LOT of work, but satisfying if you are not pressed for time. I have a stick welder and im pretty bad at it, but if you tack the welds, im sure a shop would be happy to MIG them. I have two sets of used wrong application fenderwell headers that have the same pipe diameter, and Im just cutting out any mandrel bends from the doner set to get the other set to fit. The welds look like bird pooh, but its going to get wrapped in the end, so no worries. I even pressure test all my welds in a big bucket of water with a raquet ball as a stopper. Plug the end, and dunk it...look for bubbles and then mark it with a crayon. Hit the pinholes with the welder and move on. Pishta's Ghetto Headers!

[bbeckwith]

Sounds like fun Pishta, my biggest limiting factor is the lack of room for any thing else in my garage, and keeping another car on the driveway wont make me any more popular with the neighbors. I like the idea of using some donor pipes to get the needed bends. Maybe that and a kit or two would be the way I will go in the future. I have wanted to buy an arc or mig welder for many years, this could be just the thing that motivates me to finally break down and buy one.