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  #1  
Old 03-04-2004, 06:27 PM
charger1970 charger1970 is offline
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Default Has anyone created their own cold air induction system?

Has anyone created their own cold air induction system? Is it as easy as connecting a tube to the air filter and running it to the front of the car? I know my car runs like a pig when it’s hot out and purrs like a cat when it’s cold so I want to hook something up to get some cold air into the carb. Any help would be much appreciate
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2004, 06:51 PM
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http://www.ramairbox.com/

All you need is a smooth bore tube from the air cleaner to the grill area. Smooth tubes will increase power since it will create less turbulence. Or, just buy one from these guys.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:07 PM
jslikness jslikness is offline
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If you do a cold air intake, make sure the rest of the air cleaner is sealed off from the hot air, or it doesn't do any good. I've seen people just run a tube to the air cleaner and it doesn't do much. Get a sealed air cleaner box from K&N or ramairbox.com, and get some tubing to run up to the front somewhere where it can draw in cold air.

The cowl area is actually the best place to draw from, but not too practical for most cars. Especially in the rain...

K&N Plenum box

Ram Air Box
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:12 PM
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Actually the cowl is not the best place to get cold air from. It will only work if the system is properly set up. Ut has a lot to do with the areo of hte vehicle. All of those old ta's and z cars with cowl hoods were a good marketing ploy that offered no performance what so ever.

We looked into this alot while building our NASCAR Sportsman cars and determined a cowl air system would not benifit us, since there was no way for us to test the areo of our cars. In research, we found an improper cowl set up can actually stall out air flow and reduce hp.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:13 PM
jslikness jslikness is offline
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I always thought that the cowl was the lowest pressure area on the front of the car. The wind hitting the front (especially if there's an air dam) does more going over the car than through the grill. But, I haven't done any testing, just going by the way the Cup teams do it...
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Old 03-05-2004, 11:33 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Did you read up on that K&N product?
Quote:
Works best with small displacement engines under 200 c.i.d. or low revving V6/V8 engines. If the engine requires more than 45 sq. in. of filter area, then this plenum should not be used, because the carburetor will have to be re-jetted, and a loss of high rpm power will result.
...sounds like it isn't for us!
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Old 03-05-2004, 11:44 AM
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i had built a very similar unit like that in the link.

took an old chevy filter case (4"x14" element")
- welded two 4" tubes on ...
- took another set of 4" tubes, shaped a "bellmouth"...
- cut two holes, 1 left, 1 right beside the cooler,
welded the "bellmouth tubes" in
- connected it with "flex tubing"

worked really good in my polara.
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2004, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jslikness
I always thought that the cowl was the lowest pressure area on the front of the car. The wind hitting the front (especially if there's an air dam) does more going over the car than through the grill. But, I haven't done any testing, just going by the way the Cup teams do it...
It works like an airplane so to speak. The air moving at speed over the hood hits the winsheild and changes direction and a low pressure area. This forces some air through the opening. That's why it's areo dependent. NASCAR wont let them do it, but they know that a proper wheel designed to pull air out of the wheel opening makes the aire move over the side of the fenders to the wincsheild/ cowl opening and would actually produce more air flow to the carb than the way they do it know. But, theres a rule against it. It's an areo design again, so just anyone cant do that either. IF you dont have the equipment to measure it, you can actually make it flow nothing throguh the cowl or wose, pull a vacuum at the cowl and reduce hp.

Best thing for non race cars is forward facing scoops or ram air pipes from the grill to an enclosed air cleaner assembly.
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Old 03-08-2004, 10:41 AM
charger1970 charger1970 is offline
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That Ramairbox looks just like the twin snokel aircleaner I allready have. What is the diff?
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  #10  
Old 03-08-2004, 12:30 PM
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one thing i had forget,
with the setup i had,
it´s neccesary to have the carbuerretor
modified, it needs a "pressure sensitive float"
in order to "enrichen", or better said to
the A/F ratio steady with the increasing pressure that
builds up with increasing speed.

that modification is described in "david vizard´s, how to build
horsepower pt.2 book)

it´s a tube that connects the float with the airfilterplenum.
w. increasing pressure, the float will be pushed down....

m
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Old 03-08-2004, 10:07 PM
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Glen440 Glen440 is offline
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I made one for my Volare back in 98. I gained a few mpg on the highway and 1.5 tenths and 2 mph in the 1/4. I made a steel centre section for the front spoiler and put in 2 14"X4" heat registers that few 4" flex tubing that ran up the inside of the fenders and into my home built air cleaner that takes a 14X4" air filter and has a 4"drop base. I'm just about to rebuild the system, it was not on the car this last year but I have a pic of the aircleaner.http://groups.msn.com/Glenscar/shoebox.msnw
These are pics of my car from last year. I did not put the front spoiler on cause I smashed one side front flare.

DWC you may get a kick out of the small block power steering pump I managed to hang on the BB. It barely robs any power compared to the old style pumps.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2004, 11:03 AM
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That works on the cheap side, we use a sweet aluminum pump.
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2004, 11:22 AM
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polara69 polara69 is offline
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Biggrin

i did use a beamer zf junkyard pump for my chev,
and i got a 12.000 mls mazda 626 pump,
which i´ll use on my mopar

mik
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