Ram Powergrip Clutches??

[Clair]

So I put a new Powergrip clutch set in my Valiant when I installed the new 340. Nothing like installing new high-zoot stuff, right? Well, it all went in great, adjusted it, fired the engine, and went for a drive. Shifted great, engaged smoothly, seemed to take all the power I'd throw at it and just smile. Well, yesterday coming home from work, I pulled up to a stop light, and when the light was about to change, I couldn't get in to gear. Any gear. Reverse would grind, and as I tried to push it in to first, the engine would start to die. Shut the engine off, slip it in to gear, depress clutch, fire the engine, and take off... that's how I had to do the next 2-3 lights to get home. By the time I got home, I couldn't even take it out of gear if the engine was running.
Today, I pull the inspection cover (TTI's make that outer PS bolt about IMPOSSIBLE to remove), and it appears that one of the three pressure plate fingers is loose or depressed. I can just barely get to it with a screw driver, and it just kind of flops around. I think I've narrowed down the problem...
Question: are Ram clutches just a POS, or is this a freak occurance? I'm dead in the water until I can pull the trans and get to this mess, and I don't think I want to try to fix it... I don't have a lot of faith that it will STAY fixed. Any experience with this?
Thanks,
Clair

[ehostler]

Sounds like the metal retainer for one of the springs broke. That happened to me, years ago, with a McCleod clutch. McCleod gladly gave me a new pressure plate.

I'm sure that if you contact RAM or the place where you bought it, they will exchange it for no charge.

[Clair]

I hope that's the case. The only problem I may have is that the clutch set sat on my shelf for a couple years before I got around to installing the thing... funny how fast time slips when you're getting married, remodeling the house, changing jobs... I think I can find the receipt from Summit, but they're out of the picture after 90 days. Looks like I'll be calling Ram directly and seeing what they can do. At worst, I'm getting a new PP and I have an expensive door stop... At best it'll be something I can fix with the MIG and keep going.

Clair

[ehostler]

If it's been that long, since purchase, RAM will probably do nothing. If they are willing to work with you, they will probably want you to ship them the pressure plate, so they can determine that it was barely used, before they ship you a new one.

I wouldn't bother TIG welding where it broke. Odds are, it's a casting flaw. That being the case, it would probably break again, right near the weld/original break.

[23T]

If you weld on it you sure wont get any help from Ram, I'm running on of there PP & clutchs in my T behing a strong 400 and havent had any problems. Good luck in what ever course you choose

[Clair]

I won't be welding anything until I talk to them, even though I don't expect them to do much for me. We'll see... I did find some instructions on how to disassemble the pressure plate, so I may do some sort of autopsy on it when I find out what the deal is. More research to do...

Clair

[23T]

Call them and explain what all happened time on the shelf etc bet this is'nt the first time it's come up may cost you some shipping $ but you may get a new set up

[Clair]

Update: Ram indicates that they need to see what happened before they will repair/replace the part, no mention of booting me due to warranty issues. I kind of kept quiet about it sitting on the shelf for a couple years ... it's no less new than if it sat on Summit's shelf... right? So, now all I have to do is pull it and send it to them, then deal with the car being down for a month (my guess). I guess this is the time to install that EFI kit I've had sitting on the garage floor since October...

Clair

[Clair]

Update 2:
Got a call an hour ago from Ram… they’re done going through my clutch, and have fixed/replaced everything that needed it, including resurfacing the pressure ring. This, after receiving the clutch on Wednesday of this week. That’s a whole bunch faster than I thought their turn around would be, and they’re shipping it back to me for free. That’s damn fine customer service, in my opinion. They’ll definitely be getting more business from me in the future.
FWIW, the tech said that one of the return springs for the release levers had come out of place and wasn’t allowing the clutch to release (duh). They also said that it might be an adjustment issue, and that the clutch pedal may need to be closer to the floor. I had been adjusting the clutch so that there was a slight amount of clearance between the TOB and the clutch fingers, so that the TOB wouldn’t be touching the fingers when released. I guess I can verify how much the disk is actually being released, but I’ve always had good luck with that method for the past 9-10 years or so. Seems like the over-center spring would keep the TOB up against the clutch release fingers if the pedal was too low. Anyone adjusting their clutch differently?
Thank