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  #1  
Old 04-04-2004, 03:51 PM
Dartcustom Dartcustom is offline
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Question Rearend alignment? Help

The rearend in my Dart is not aligned. The drivers side tire comes much closer to the inner lip than the pasenger side, almost 1/2" What causes this? Worn spring bushings? What can I do to get it centered?
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Old 04-04-2004, 05:02 PM
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gsmopar gsmopar is offline
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My charger is the same way. I don't know if it's a factory screw up or if my car had been in a accident at some point in its history. Anyway, the alignment should be measured from front tire to rear tire not from fender to tire.
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Old 04-04-2004, 06:58 PM
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If the tire to tire measurments are off, then you need to measure the unibody, to confirm that it isn't tweaked.
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Old 04-04-2004, 07:53 PM
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Re: Rearend alignment? Help

Quote:
Originally posted by Dartcustom
The rearend in my Dart is not aligned. The drivers side tire comes much closer to the inner lip than the pasenger side, almost 1/2" What causes this? Worn spring bushings? What can I do to get it centered?
Worn springs, bushings, and frame damage is about the only thing that can cause this problem.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:59 PM
Dartcustom Dartcustom is offline
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I should have been clearer in my description. It's the side to side alignment that is off. Thanks
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Old 04-04-2004, 11:35 PM
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moraycen moraycen is offline
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Question

My 70 dart was the same way. Makes it hard to fit large tires to.My 65 cuda was short on the drivers side by allmost 1/2 in when we put it on the allinment mech,a3/8 shim fixed that. The only thing that I know of to do in your case would be to cut off the spring perchsand move them over thats what I did on mine then I could run275-60s on ralye wheels without rubbing.

Ray
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Old 04-05-2004, 12:19 AM
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TrashedCharger TrashedCharger is offline
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Default Rearend Alignment

Hello, I have worked in several auto body and collision repair shops and I can tell you that I have seen this problem more than once on older leaf spring vehicles.

The first thing to do is to measure all of your critical areas. You'll need to have a flat, level space to operate on.

Put the vehicle on jack stands at each end of the rearend and keep the rear suspension loaded. Keep the front of the vehicle on the ground with the wheels chocked and straight. This makes it easyer to measure and work under the rear of the vehicle.

Inspect your leaf spring packs, u bolts and bushings and determine if they are latteral and straight, even if worn.

Check your wheel width. you can easily and visually determine if you are running the same width wheels side to side. Place a straight edge across the rim edge of each wheel. Make sure what you set across the wheel is not touching the sidewall of the tire and measure the distance between the back side of the straight edge tool to the edge of the indexing hole in the center of the wheel.

If these wheel measurments differ, you may be running a 1/2 inch wider wheel on one side, if they are the same, side to side, check and measure the following-

Know that your Drive shaft is NOT centered to the car. Your drivetrain is usually set slightly off to the passengers side of the car from center (get in your car and look at the drive shaft tunnel positioning to your rear bench seat and rear window) ALL A,B,C and E bodys are like this.

Because most mopars were unibodys, there are no subframe rails under ther the front seats unless you have frame connectors. The vehicle was designed to use the rocker panels for streingth in the middle of the car. This is also why it's a bad idea to jack up any end or corner of a unibody with any of the doors open

Using a yellow crayon, measuring tape, a square and 2 straight edges (one about 3 feet long, the other about 2 feet long) Attach the straight edges (duct tape or clamps) even with the outside edges of the square.

Make a crayon mark on your driveshaft anywhere about 4-6 inches up from the rear U joint. It doesn't matter how far. Hold the square against the drivers side of the driveshaft at your mark and measure the distance between the out most edge of your square/ straight edge tool stright back to the rearend axle housing. Then hold the tool against the passengers side of the driveshaft and make the same measurment. This will tell you if your driveshaft is square with your rear axle. If the Numbers are different, whichever side had the larger measurment is the side that your rearend is too far over to. (double check your measurments)

If your car has been cornered hard or curb checked at any time during its life this can tweak bushings, springs and even bend u-bolts and shckles. check the straightness of your leaf spring packs, u bolts and shackles with a straight edge or square and replace any part that doesn't appear to be straight.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2004, 09:01 AM
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I agree with TrashedCharger. Also check for bent main leaf springs too. And 1/2 inch differences in wheel width is common with mixed matched wheels if your's are not the originals.
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