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Old 04-05-2004, 03:24 AM
TrashedCharger's Avatar
TrashedCharger TrashedCharger is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Co.
Age: 42
Posts: 675
Default New 360 Engine Break In ???

Hi, hi, hi!

I'm restoring a 1972 Dodge D100 Adventurer SE longbed 2wd pickup with a 360/ A-727/ 8 3/4" rearend with 323:1 gears and sure grip.

This truck has everything, and I mean EVERYTHING that a 2wd 1/2 ton standard cab longbed was available with down to the 2 tone paint, high trim package, d and p side sport mirrors, sport bumpers w/bumperguards, cruise control, a/c, power disc brakes, power steering, headliner, map pockets, cargo lamp and factory tachometer (super rare)

I was going to drive this thing daily. I was looking for a 1972-'73 D100 because I liked the grille and interior better than the later years and I found this truck as straight as an arrow,complete and rust free for sale for $800. As soon as I pulled the brodcast sheet from the seat, I found out that this truck was a Spring Special ordered by the dealership with every option available. It was a special order truck and all arrows point towards it had been a showroom vehicle to showcase the all new Dodge Truck for the Spring of 1972 at a Colorado dealership.

Needless to say I bought it and put it away for a complete restoration (underside and all) I threw my 68 Charger (my first car) project on the back burner until I can afford doing that car the way I want to (bead blasted inside and out rotisserie) and now I'm getting my 360 back from the machine shop for assembly.

Anyways I have a few questions because I fear destroying a #'s matching engine.

I'm getting the #'s matching Dec 11th 1971 date coded complete 360 and forged crankshaft out of the machine shop on Friday and The engine cannot be assembled and sit for more than a month without running and risking parts beginning to rust internally.

This means once I begin assembly I have to make sure its ready to fire up!

This engine will be relatively stock with a few exeptions. It is the 9.25:1 Compression ratio 360 because it was one of the first to roll off the assembly line. The 360 was not intended to hit the market until the beginning of 1973. This being a #'s matching 1972 Pickup and the engine made in Dec 11 of 1971 I'd really hate to mess this engine up.

Here is a list of all of my modifications and parts being used on the truck:

Was a holley2bbl with an iron intake, now a mopar dual plane aluminum M-1 intake using composite side gaskets and foam front and rear gaskets. This will be topped with a restored 600-625cfm carter AVS from a late 1971 date coded 383 with the 7/8" diameter acellerator pump piston (instead of the 5/8") I converted it from thermostatic choke to an aftermarket weber carter/edelbrock electric choke (same as an AFB) Has been Jetted and set for Colorado Altitude(about 5000 above sea level).
Factory Dual Snorkel air cleaner (chrysler red w/ 360 4 barrel decal)

1 5/8" to 3" Mopar Performance truck headers tapered into 2 1/2" stainless wire swirl finished dual exhaust with flowmaster Warlock mufflers (with the cutout caps) in front of the rear end

Hughes Engines Camshaft grind # HEH 1019( a hair step up from an RV cam) with .904" wide lobes (correct mopar width) and matched valvesprings and lifters. I would post the specs, but they measure everything @ 50 degrees unlike others, I checked the valve clearance numbers and they are okay with flat top pistons. I will be using a degree wheel and key to set this cam with the manufacturers installation instructions

Clevite Bearings all around including cam bearings

Wolverine Double Roller timing Chain

Stock valves on rebuilt stcok J heads with hardened exhaust valve seats, resurfaced intake seats, new brass guides installed (not sleeves) and new teflon seals (not umbrella rubber seals) and factory rocker arms and shafts.

The heads (NOT the block) have been decked .010" on the head gasket AND intake so I can use them with a stock intake on a stock deck height engine. This was done to decrease the level of CC's and increase compression to compensate for the valve releifs in the pistons. The block deck height was milled .005" for straightness. I was told that this does not affect any assembly factors.

.040" overbore matched cylinders and bore matched federal mogul pistons with slight valve releifs.

.010" under main bearings and matched ground and polished forged steel crankshaft balanced with the stock torque converter and harmonic balancer stock rods with new bearings and the new pistons.

Stock truck 360 oil pan with a '68 factory 340 windage tray re-drill pressed for adjustable height main stud windage tray adaptor kit.

Stock oil pickup screen with the truck only tube (assembly has been hot tank cleaned)

New federal mogul oil pump (standard pressure)

New factory replacement mechanical fuel pump

nothing has been done to the oil passages or water jackets

This truck does have factory electronic ignition (no points) with a rebuilt stock distributor. I put a Mopar Performance advance recurve spring kit into it and gapped the pickup at .008" This does have a factory vacuum advance as well.

I am using a stock distributor cap with brass conductors inside and on the rotor.

This ignition system will be backed up with a Jacob's Electronics Pro Street Electronic Ignition kit with an Energy Pak 65,000 Volt Coil. the system uses the stock coil as an inductive pickup to send spark from the box to the Jacobs coil. These Jacob's systems are supposed to have an internally programmable rev. limiter, silent alarm, peak power on off switch of 65,000 volts and are supposed outperform the MSD 6A and AL systems (we'll find out!)

I will be running Taylor 10mm black or orange jacketed wires into solid ceramic boots (to protect from heat damage) into AC Delco Rapid Fire spark plugs (the ones that cost $5 each)

new brass freeze plugs and temp and oil sensors will be used.

I am contemplating using two o2 sensors in my exhaust pipes with welded in steel bungs for tuning perpouses only... ??? not sure yet.

I am also considering using an oil reclamation system as a pre-startup oiler.

It is basically a 1 quart cylinder with a piston in it. On one side is pressurized air. On the other side is oil. it has an electronic valve operated by the ignition switch and you connect it to the pressurized side of your oil system.

When the engine is shut off and has zero oil pressure the valve is shut off and their is about 30 psi of air pressure behind the piston that is used to force the oil into the engine. As soon as the ignition is turned on to the run position, the electronic valve is opened and the 30 psi of air forces the piston to inject the 1 quart of oil into the pressurized side of the oil system in the block, pressurizing your oil system with 30 psi at zero RPM.

Once the engine has started, the 45+ PSI of oil pressure over powers the 30 PSI of air pressure in the cylinder and forces oil back into the 1 quart cylinder for next the next time you need to start the engine.

You also get another 1 quart capacity of oil without going to a different pan and if your engines oil pressure is below 30psi for ANY reason, the valve is opened and you save your bearings with an extra quart of oil!

They do make these in 3 quart capacity too, but the 1 quart with the valve is about $150... decisions, decisions...

Now for the questions...

I would like to run Mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 oil, but I was told that I should break er in with regular 10w 30 before going synthetic for the first 500 miles. Is this true?

Is their any way to preset distributor clocking advance before using a timing light and without running the engine?

Should I put my carburetor on another engine to tune it before putting it on my new motor?

Should I wait to adapt the Jacob's Electronics Ignition system until after I have broken in the camshaft?

With the Distributor recurve kit, it's supposed to have complete mechanical advance come in at 2500 RPM instead of the stock springs which bring in full advance at about 5200 RPM. Should I use the Vacuum Advance with the Distributor advance recurve kit and the electronic ignition kit?

If you can think of anything else that would help me get this thing running without it exploding I would be very thankful!

It just spooks me out putting so many new parts together that havent been tested or tuned.

Thanks!
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