Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-10-2004, 08:46 AM
rallye72's Avatar
rallye72 rallye72 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: South east Mi
Age: 52
Posts: 1,478
A Body Header Question

I just installed a set of headers in a small block Duster, and I have about a 1/4 inch clearance between a primary tube and the steering box. Is this going to be a problem with heat transfer? I don't want to cook my power steering fluid.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-10-2004, 09:12 AM
dwc43's Avatar
dwc43 dwc43 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Shelbyville,Tn.
Age: 54
Posts: 23,987
Want be a problem at all. Should have wrapped them with header wrap to keep under hood temp lower.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-10-2004, 09:41 AM
rumblefish360's Avatar
rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
Moparchat Bronze member
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: C
Age: 57
Posts: 11,120
Default

Header wrap only that small area. Wrapping the whole header will reduce under hood temps, but I bet the price of the header you'll be back there soon doing the job again.
If you have any fear thereafter, run a small cooler for the power steering fluid.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-10-2004, 09:58 AM
rallye72's Avatar
rallye72 rallye72 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: South east Mi
Age: 52
Posts: 1,478
thanks

They are ceramic coated so the coating keeps the temp down a little bit, Now I just have to pull the engine again to get the driver side header out so I can clearance the tube by the steering column. Got every thing together and the damn thing won't turn! Live and learn
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-10-2004, 06:01 PM
dwc43's Avatar
dwc43 dwc43 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Shelbyville,Tn.
Age: 54
Posts: 23,987
Ceramic coating really dont help at all. HEader wraps will though. I have a favorite set to run at one track and they are about 8 years old now and still has the same header wrap on it when I installed it new. On small blocks this is really the only way to go. On mine the 8.8 wires on 5 and 7 use a heat sleave and rest right against the wrapped headers and have never burned through the sleave or that thick boot on those wires. Good stuff, I'd wrap them while you have them out again.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-10-2004, 06:15 PM
ohioDemon ohioDemon is offline
This account disabled due to bad email address!
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: wilmington ohio usa
Posts: 351
Default

RALLYE 72, you got nothin to worry about. it will be fine.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-10-2004, 07:48 PM
rallye72's Avatar
rallye72 rallye72 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: South east Mi
Age: 52
Posts: 1,478
Cool beans

I got them in finally, had to do some pipe bending though. I installed the headers on my challenger with no problems, This duster was a different story. I'm glad it's done. I can think of more fun thing to do like strip down naked and do somersaults through a pile of thumbtacks.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-10-2004, 11:52 PM
HDDuece HDDuece is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Denver, Co.
Age: 69
Posts: 62
Default

Rallye 72, I am going to install headers on my 70 Duster 340 soon. I don't have power steering or brakes and it is a 4-speed. Got any tips to make the job easier. Any help would really be appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-11-2004, 06:08 PM
dwc43's Avatar
dwc43 dwc43 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Shelbyville,Tn.
Age: 54
Posts: 23,987
Put the drivers side in first. It's the hardest to install and the right side should just drop in. Never had to clearence any on my cars, YET.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-11-2004, 07:55 PM
dusterbd's Avatar
dusterbd dusterbd is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: ablemarle, nc
Age: 42
Posts: 938
Default

HD duce
did headers on my 360, four speed 70 duster. see the end of my post for exact specs. i hated it, and the next time i remove them, it will be with a sawzall.
easiest way is to pull the torsion bars, the motor mount to k-frame nuts, fan (if mechanical), distributor and cap, and then drink a beer. look to make sure you didnt forget anything, like pulling the old manifolds and headpipes.
you will also want to pull the center link and tir rod ends completely off the car. this can be done in one unit, with the tierods attached to the center link.
also, remove the starter and disconnect the battery. its a whole lot more fun without the sparks. drink another beer, have a cigarette. then, jack the motor up a lot. just make sure to stop when the bellhousing hits the firewall. it wont go any further, and then you have yet another dent to fix......
i put mine in both on the lift and on jackstands. it was wasier on the lift, but still possible on the jackstands. put the drivers side in first, from the bottom. youll fight for about an hour to get it to go in, and when it does, hang a couple of bolts, sit back, and stop the bleeding of your hands. then, go see where it hits, pull it back out, smack the crap out of it with a hammer in that area, and put it back in. bolt down, and remember how you hold the wrench, as you will be retightening often. do over to the passengers side, and it should slip right in. you may have to remove the oil filter and adapter, though.
then, go about reinstalling the pile of parts laying on the ground, making sure that they all clear. whack with hammer accordingly. have another beer or two.
after all is put back together, but before you hook up the exhaust, fire it up and rev the crap out of it. by this point, it should br the wee hours of the morning, and you may be a little inebrieated. shut the car down, go over to the house, and go to sleep. in the morning, recheck all fasteners, clearences, cotter keys, etc. also make sure to take nasty notes from irritated neighbors from mailbox before the mailman picks them up and becomes irritated at you as well. then, re-install exhaust, and drive very carefully, as they will hit everthing higher on the road than a sheet of paper. also, if you have to take it to a muffler shop, warn them about lack of ground clearance when they take the keys, or the crushed tubes will be "not their fault".
anyway, this is just what i did. you may have to do a little more, or a little less. i also hope for your sake that you dont drink, remember cotter keys, and have friendly neighbors and a real understanding mailman.
good luck. anything else i can help with, let me know.
mike
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-11-2004, 08:00 PM
dwc43's Avatar
dwc43 dwc43 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Shelbyville,Tn.
Age: 54
Posts: 23,987
If you have the proper tires, ride height and good shocls it should never drag the ground unless it's while going over a speed bump. It's really not that hard to install them either. We never pull the T bars, cause that's just more work to be done resetting ride height and realiginment for the front end.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-11-2004, 10:32 PM
HDDuece HDDuece is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Denver, Co.
Age: 69
Posts: 62
Default

I got the right side in. It did not just drop in but I had to force it in from the bottom. So much for the nice ceramic finish. All in all it was a pretty productive day. I installed a new drop out section for the differential with 3.91 gears. I put a new clutch in and reinstalled the transmision. It took longer for the one header then all the other stuff. Tomorrow I will start on the drivers side.
I will remove anything that even looks close to being in the way.I will let you know how it goes and if I learned any tricks.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-12-2004, 12:57 AM
bbeckwith's Avatar
bbeckwith bbeckwith is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Dunedin, Florida
Posts: 1,491
Default

dusterbd,

how true, how true. You gave me a good laugh with that description, and yet it is so typical of how header installs on a -bodies go. The scraped knuckles, cussing, irate neighbors, all of it, straight out of the headers from hell handbook! I detest even thinking about them nowadays, and I have TTIs which are way easier than most.

Bruce
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-12-2004, 01:30 PM
rallye72's Avatar
rallye72 rallye72 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: South east Mi
Age: 52
Posts: 1,478
I just pulled the engine

Used safty wire to hold the headers to the shocks, dropped the engine back in place, good to go. I removed and reinstalled this engine 7 times this month, thank God for beer
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-12-2004, 02:22 PM
dwc43's Avatar
dwc43 dwc43 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Shelbyville,Tn.
Age: 54
Posts: 23,987
LOL! You must be a glutten for punishment pulling that engine out that many times.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A-Body Header Question Twisted360 Performance Talk 0 08-25-2003 09:28 PM
B-Body Header Question Jetstar Performance Talk 5 01-23-2003 08:05 PM
Header Question/A-body pro-street dart Performance Talk 15 08-31-2002 12:58 PM
A-body Header help kcbear Restoring your MoPar (Tricks & techniques) 3 01-22-2002 05:31 AM
A body header question Dodgeaholic 1 Vintage MOPAR chat 12 01-19-2002 11:07 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .