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#1
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pulling engine and tranny secretes
Heres the deal.
Im not going to install the 4 barrel. Ill be pulling the engine and tranny. Iv got everthing disconnected. Just need to unbolt the engine mounts and have our crain to lift it out. Do I need to take the starter off or will it clear the power steering. I have a '74 swinger w/ 318, 904. How do you guys pull the engine and tranny? I have the intake off, could we stick some bolts in the heads and lift it from there? Any for advice would be great. Thanks |
#2
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You can leave the starter on it for now. I always pull the engine and tranny together and by the intake bolts. If you run headers, you'll have to put the drivers side header in then drop hte engine tranny combo in and then install the starter from underneath it. Then the right side header, then procede from there.
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#3
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I had a similar question. How hard is it to remove a 727 tranny with the engine in place? The car is a 72 Charger, and the engine is a 440. Both the engine and the transmission have to come out, but I don't know if I can get them both out at the same time without removing things like the bumper, grill, hood latch support, etcetera etcetera. If I can just remove the hood and get the engine/tranny combo out without having to tear apart the entire front end, that's how I'd prefer to do it.
Thanks, Scott Gardner |
#4
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I've got 5 of them and have had no problems pulling them out the top with the tranny on it too. Those cars have lots of room around the engines. It's still pretty easy to get at the belhousing bolts on them. Much easier than on an A body or F body car.
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#5
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riquiscott,
An engine leveler is key to hoisting motor/tranny combo. Getting the motor at an angle should provide ample room, but then I dont have a big block, or a B-body, so what do I know? Good luck |
#6
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Easy
You can even leave the driveshaft on if you are in a hurry,trans crossmember off the frame,leave it on the trans,linkage and lines off,cut pipe to manifold bolts with your torche,starter wires easy to pull of the relay,car has to be up in the air enough to let trans pivot down for enough angle for the front pulleys to clear the upper radiator core support,hey this thing is out,now what do we do with it?
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#7
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As was mentioned a leveler is a life saver, also a spare slip yoke or a plastic tailor made plug for the rear of the tranny so when you tip the front up you don't oil up your garage floor.
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#8
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Thanks for all the quick replies. To get the most clearance to allow the tranny to pivot downwards, am I right in thinking that I need to raise the rear end of the car? The last time I pulled an engine and a tranny together, it was on an old MGB. I raised the rear on that job, but since the engine/tranny combo was so small, and the engine compartment is relatively long for such a small car, I probably could have pulled them with the car level.
Scott Gardner |
#9
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You are lucky
Pulled a 300 six out of a93 F150 4x4 recently with the bellhousing and trans off and had to cut the core support to make it happen.Engine recessed back under the windshield so far that the engine bay is shorter than the engine!
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#10
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Re: You are lucky
Quote:
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#11
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Pretty sure
that the motor was in before the cab went on,Had to pull the heads off a econoline diesel once and had to remove both motor mounts and the oil cooler and slid it over to get them out.Chiltons said19labor hours for the job.They were right. Built the same way.
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#12
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dwc
i didnt know you could put that much weight on intake bolts, i always used a bolt on the front and rear of the motor. I do know you can pull motor/tranny together, i just usually unbolt the tranny from the crossmember and pull it out. As far as droppin it out the bottom, i dont know about that, i know on my old dodge, it would be a pain due to the front axle and everything bein in the way.
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#13
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Truck engines are installed before the cab goes on. Intake bolts wil hold it all. Done it too many times. There is even a cap that bolts to the intake where the carb bolts are for pulling the whole engine out. Just make sure that the bolts are more than just a couple threads turned in.
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Thanks guys. I got it pulled today, both engine/tranny. Now I got the tranny separated from the engine. I just need to get the engine on the stand. And start taking it apart. I figured out the parts.And i got some good tips from my buddy that lives close to me. The 318 will be real mild. What hp and 1/4 mile times do you think I would get. Ok..
318 +.30,ported stock 318 heads,headers, Ed perf intake, 625cfm carb, 9.5-1 comp, and a stock manual 340 camshaft(becuase of the altitude), No a/c. Tranny-rebuilt,shiftkit, 2500 converter Rear-8 1/4 with 3.55-3.91 gears. |
#16
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high 14s........you can get a leveler and than some chain bolt the chain to the rear of the pass side head and the front of the driver side head if you dont want to have a bashed in core support try to make something to protect it if you cant get your hoist high enough to clear that trans you could either lower your tortion bars or flatten your tires and if this is your first time dont do it by yourself .realistically undoing all the trans stuff isnt a lot of work hook up a remote starter switch to the relay drop it down underneath and get the converter bolts off yank the starter and the bellhousing bolts and pull the engine ,just put a jack or something under the trans.I can get all that undone in less than 45 minutes no power tools and once the motors hooked to the hoist pull it out reverse will be faster with it all as one unit thoug,My best time and I like to watch the clock,starting from a running vehicle is 2 hours 11 minutes till the motor was on the floor and thats undoing headers too I dont even know if thats quick but it shows you how simple these cars are .
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#17
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well, goes to show
you learn something new every day. Thank you dwc.
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#18
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hey powerwagon
Cmon up for some OJT
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#19
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Quote:
For a decent guess-ta-mation, get a desk top dyno 2000 program and don't use the single plane intake manifold. It's not very accurate when you use it for mild street engines. |
#20
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Re: well, goes to show
Quote:
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