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#1
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8.75 axle housings
Guys;anyone know if the 62 thru 64 8.75 axle housings are the same as the 65 and up.Can the 62 thru 64 be switched to the flanged axle type by changing axles,adding the bearing adjuster,possibly backing plates.Tapered axle rear drums are very hard to find,and $$$$$$$$$$$ when you can find them.
Thanks Ron. |
#2
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I'm not positive, but I dont think that can be done without a lot of machining and unecessary hassle.
Why not just toss a 66 or later flat flange axle assembly out of a later B body under there and be done with it? Only thing you should have to be check would be yoke size for the u-joint and emergency cable ends, possibly. Save those tapered axle assemblies for the restorers, those old fashioned tapered axles are a bunch of unnecessary hassle and potential failure if not handled properly. |
#3
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The '62-'63 housing is narrower than the '64-'67.
The taper axle bearings did not use a bearing retainer collar so the housing oil seal is located further out in the housing end. If flanged axles are installed in the '64 housing, the bearing collar will hit the seal. The '65 and later housing ends are bored deeper to allow the seal to be installed deeper and clear the bearing collar. |
#4
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Quote:
I do have some figures here I had saved that had been compiled on the Mopar Mailing list. I cant swear to the accuracy of these, but you should always measure your own parts and vehicle due to possible differences in tolerance in manufacturing processes anyway. Body line Track Perches Notes ------------- ---------- ----------- ----------------------- A-body, 65-72 55.6 43.0 4" lug bolt circle, offered in heavy duty apps. B-body, 62-70 59.2 44.0 B-body, 71-72 62.0 47.3 B-body, 71-72 63.4 47.3 station wagon C-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3 D-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3 E-body, 70-74 60.7 46.0 So even though this list shows 62 to 70 as the same, double check what you have just to be sure. I've read recently of B body housings put under A bodies after rewelding the perches, but I expect there are clearance issues to be considered and special wheel offsets to make the best use of the space gained. One other comment, I wonder if there is enough metal in the 64 axle housings for them to be bored as deep as the 65 and later axles to move the seal further in? I dunno if finding a machine shop that would want to fool with that would be very easy though.. |
#5
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I have often voiced my disappointment with the accuracy of the dimensions on that list. Much of the data is incorrect, especially the '62-'70 B body data.
There were three distinct widths of the rear ends in those years but the list shows only one. The track dimension listed is the measurement across the center of the mounted tires and is totally dependent on the wheel width/offset/backspacing. Even at that, the data is in error because many years used the same standard wheel. Also, the C body spring perch width is 46", not the 47.3" shown. The 47.3" width is for '71-'74 B bodies only. |
#6
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I got the good chart in the archives again... Here it is Axle Dimensions Chart
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#7
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Thanks John and Ed! While I dont own an early B-body at present, its always good to have accurate info. Thats why I posted the warning to measure and double check, cause I hadn't verified the info I posted myself or had the means to do so.
Now if you know someone with a nice affordable 62-64 B-body convertible that needs some love and attention!.... Wait a second, never mind, My family is ready to hang me if I drag in another car on the property! Glad to have the updated info regardless, cant remember everything, much appreciated! |
#8
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Speaking of 8 3/4 axles, I gotta question about them. I wanna put a 35 spline axle setup in my 68 Charger but DTS says that it can't be done and only a Dana will work. I take it the number of splines means a stronger axle? I was told that to go road racing on the twisties a 35 spline would be better. What are the maximum # of splines I can use on my car? I've yet to discuss with DTS about my buildup and I would like some ammo from you guys. The gear is gonna be a 4.56 backed buy a 6-speed OD so revs will be nice and low. Ya'll have a good one.
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#9
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8.75 axles
Thanks for the info guys.i will break out the tape and go junkyard shopping.Hmmmmm,wait a minute,my brother in law called, he has a 67 belvedere parts car,(RUSTY). I am going to put a3.55 s/g 489 case in my car might as well update..Thanks again guys.
Ron.. |
#10
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The 35 spline axle can't be used in the 8 3/4" because the bore in the side of the differential housing isn't large enough. The stock 30 spline barely fits through.
I seem to remember spools being available with the 35 spline but a spool wouldn't be to good in the twisties. |
#11
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Quote:
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#12
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DWC, yeah but how does the rear hold up turning hard lefts and rights, accelerating up to 160 then slamming on the brakes back down to 45 and hugging a 90 degree right turn? I'm gonna abuse the hell out of this thing and I don't want any axles passing me on the driver side window.
John, thanks for the input. What would be the max spline that I could stuff in my 8.75 using a sure-grip type rear? Has anyone ever taken a Dana housing and put in a 8.75 pumpkin assembly or would that defeat the whole purpose? Thanks again. |
#13
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Use a D. locker running a 3200 lb car at 130mph with way over 400 hp and it holds up fine. Never ran into a problem yet. The bigger spline and axle should work well for you. Never had a problem running the 8 3/4 either. Holds up great and we dont run a cooler on it either.
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