A Body, 440 Headers

[E Miller]

Help!! I am installing a 440 engine into a 73 Duster after removing a 360. I have a 4 speed and manual steering car. I am having trouble finding Headers that will work under chassis or shorties. Does anyone have any ideas, I am capable of modifying if necessary. E Miller

[dwc43]

Shorties dont work even if they did make them for your swap. Sjorties show just slightly better flow than a manifold in tests. The best ones are fender well exit headers like the ones I use I on my car. You can get them from Hooker, or look around and used ones turn up every now and then

[DartGT66]

Check http://www.bigblockdart.com for all your BB A-body technical support.

[44070dart]

bigblockdart place to go... tti headers to get ....a bit stiff in price[ approx. 600 ] but fit and performance worth the money

[DartGT66]

I must say that my experience about the TTI's was very, very different. That was ten years ago though, hope they have changed the design A LOT. The only "easy" underchassis headers for these cars are the Schumacher headers. They are good for moderate performance engines and better than manifolds, but sure are no race headers. The TTI's have big primaries, but at least mine needed some clearancing and run awfully close everything. Starter access was a pain, plug access was a pain, installation was a pain snd so on. Those seemed to be somekind of a "monday special" since the plug clearance dimples in some pipes were mislocated etc. I never was able to make the plugwireboots last, and with EFI that was a catastroph. I have also used Hookers, but just a few weeks ago replaced them with self made fenderwells that give good tire clearance and have shorter primaries.

[44070dart]

I purchased tti last year and they fit really well no plug or wire problem, they must have improved their design over the years ...of course with a 440 in a dart everything is very tight but they fit as good as Ive seen...I have a 440/ 66 Satellite with hooker super comp's that is what I would call tight even though its a wider compartment and chassis the winding of the tubes is wild... about 1/4" away from starter

[d.friction]

My Hooker SC in my 68 cuda fit real well they are only close to the firewall and the ground. Having to jack the front of the car up about 18inches to get them in is the only pain in the ass. But I have been very pleased with the fit in relation to the plugs, starter, and master cylinder.

[E Miller]

Thanks to all the responses to my question. I am learning alot, keep the info coming. I am leaning towards the TTI's as the way to go. E Miller

[pishta]

Get a new generic set for a 440 B and modify them to fit, its only about 3 tubes that you need to either alter or relocate. I found it very rewarding as an amateur welder and came out with a set that was almost equal length and cleared everything. I had an old rusty set so a new set would be all that easier to weld!

[TL]

Pishta, I saw that on bigblockdart. If you have done this can you tell me how the ground clearance is.

[pishta]

I run Pro-Parts B headers on a narrow A so things were tight all over. I had to make an "S" turn to get around my torsion bar and steering link. I also moved a fenderwell tube on the passenger side closer to the firewall and inner fender wall for tire clearance. For a generic set, you would probably have to get them around the shock towers. I run a 3 inch collector with big primarys so my clearance is not what it coud be, but it does hang 3 inches below my trans pan which is about the lowest part under the car. I run a normal height suspension so I have about 4.5. Measure the distance from the exhaust port to the ground and figure from there. My motor look s to be at a slight angle so the collectors are a little lower than the rest, but Im going to fix that if it is a problem since the collectors are a slip fit onto the primaries.

[fastback340]

How much horse power will the Schumacher Tri Ys sapport ?

[dwc43]

Tri Y's are not the way to go. They wont make as much power as a typical 4 into 1 header. Try Hedman or better yet, Hooker fenderwell headers like I run. I have the 2 inch prim. on mine, I dont have a dent or clearence prob with a single tube on them and it;'s set at normal ride height in the front with 15" wheels.

[hotrod7043]

Tubular automotive In Rockland,mass makes the best one i have seen thats generaly avaiilble Pn# Es_15 call them the used to be
like 275.00 good fendr well big power be specific when ordering what collector you want. any problems email me at mopar.parts2@vereizon.net

[hotrod7043]

also with the tubulars the tubes dont break of like the hookers, and you can run a bigger frt tire that email is mopar.parts2@verizon.net

[pishta]

Wow, I wish I had heard of these guys. Th e only problem with the Hookers is the tire clearance, but if these guys have that licked, I will be calling them when my customs fall apart. What would be real nice is if I could send them mine and have them bend me up a set identical with 4 whole tubes instead of the 15 pieces I have welded together!

[hotrod7043]

i just sold a 452 low deck duster had a good set of fenderwelll under chasiss that The guy Got From Herb Mcandless i dont know who made them but they were a real nice piece collecter exit rt by trtans, fit alll head and deck hieghts.1 tube overframe rail in the rear then back under was a nice setup.The tubular Automotives are real thick flanges, and are a slip fit together design.

[DartGT66]

those were the "pro parts" headers, they are available at least from Hensley racing and Bob Mazzolini racing.

Personally I do not appriciate the Hooker fenderwells a lot because of their extremely long primaries. They are good for low end torque, but in a hotter engine they seem top restrict the output somewhat. Have no experience about Hedman fenderwells, but have also heard good things about the tubular automotive headers.