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Old 04-28-2004, 08:05 PM
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chargerfreak chargerfreak is offline
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Help Fuel cell plumbing and mounting questions

On my Charger there is a line that goes from that overflow canister that sits behind the driver side rear fender well to the carb. Was that originally for vacuum or a place for gasses to vent? I removed the can. Do I still need a line going from the carb to the cell? I know I need a breather tube from the cell. Would I plumb that tube from the cell to the carb or just out the trunk floor to the underside of the body, like with my trunk mount battery vent? I'm hoping that's the answer. Less clutter in the engine bay.

Also, do I need to reinforce the trunk floor to support the weight of the cell? It's an aluminum 20 gallon Triangle Engineering cell. If so, can anyone suggest what configuration I might use to reinforce the floor, ie. cross pieces or something like that. When I looked at it today it wasn't immediately evident what would be the way to go if it's needed. This is my first time doing anything like this so any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:46 AM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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That can was part of the evaporative emissions control, and was a place for gasoline fumes to collect while the engine was not running. The line from the carb collected evaporation from the float bowl, and there was another line that collected the fumes from the tank. When the engine was running, a vacuum line to the manifold sucked the fumes out of the can. This is actually one of the less obtrusive smog controls, and doesn't adversely affect performance.

Do you still have the original carb? If so, you need to vent that line somewhere, and the exit should be higher than the bowl. If you have a replacement carb, odds are it already has a bowl vent tube that should be fine as is. As for the vent from the cell, you can vent it out the trunk.

Unless you've cut the trunk floor or it's badly rusted, it should support the cell just fine.
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:45 AM
451Mopar 451Mopar is offline
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Is the fuel cell a temporary install? If not I would cut the trunk so you can recess the fuel cell, as the fuel cell will take up over 1/2 your trunk space. I can't even get a spare tire in my trunk.
I also Have a '71 Charger with a triangle 20 gallon fuel cell, but I mounted it on a frame, and then I bolted the frame to the trunk floor. This was supposed to be a temporary install, but it has been in there for six years now. On the bottom of the trunk floor I used really large flat washers on the bolts holding the fuel cell in.

The vapor cannister behind the drivers side rear wheel well was only for emissions, and I believe the vapor purge line actually ran into the passenger side valve cover breather, not the carb. Anyhow if you are installing a fuel cell i doubt you care about the original emissions system?

The fuel cell has a 3/8" or 6AN fitting on top for a vent. I used 3/8" aluminum line up from the fuel cell, with two loops in it before venting it back down through the trunk floor. I din't install a roll-over valve in my setup.
I did have to drill two holes on the top side of the fuel cell so I could plumb some return lines from the fuel pump and regulator.

I may be able to post some pictures if your interested?
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:47 AM
451Mopar 451Mopar is offline
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Also, I forgot to mention. my fuel cell has the fuel level sender, and it has never worked right with the stock gauges.
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Old 04-29-2004, 02:35 AM
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chargerfreak chargerfreak is offline
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Default thanx to both of you and yea! Pictures would be great

Hey 451, Some pictures would be awesome. I'm especially interested in the frame you built for the cell. What was your reason for doing that? It sounds like a great idea for me because were the rear tabs for the cell are located there are factory holes with plugs in the trunk floor. If I did the frame thing it would take care of that. This is a permanent installation. My long term plan is to race the car with a little street duty so the cell taking up the trunk space isn't an issue. This car will never be my daily driver.

What is the reason for the loops in the vent line? Is that neccessary if you don't use the ball check valve, just so any fuel isn't as likely to "slosh out"? Because I've already got a 90' fitting I was just going to plumb the vent with braided line, but it sounds like you did something very different. I actually saw a car in Car Craft that did the loop thing with hard line like you described and I was wondering what the reason for that was.

Also, I'm glad you mentioned about the stock fuel gauge not working well with the sender. I spoke with Triangle about senders and they said the Chrysler type senders they had been selling had major problems so they completely stopped selling them. I bought the tank off a friend and it has the GM sender in it. I was thinking I might just go with an Auto Meter gauge for fuel. I've already got them for oil,volt,water, and tach so what the heck.

Again, thanks for your reply and I would love to see some photos.
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